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Old 07-27-2011, 10:37 AM   #61
larryboy
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast1 View Post
You are saying your DRZ weighs 66 lbs less than a TE630. That is pure bullshit.

That makes your DRZ less weight than my TE510. Pure bullshit.

TE630 factory weight is 317 lbs. (144 kg) 317 minus 66 lbs = 251 lbs for a DRZ. Time to quit dreaming.

http://www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com...specifications

Uhm, that is right for the dry weight of an E model DRZ, it's right around 282 ready to ride, under 300 pounds with a big tank on it. I've ridden a cammed DRZ-E and a stock 510 will destroy it, the cammed E is neck and neck with a 610 in a drag race.

Ready to ride on a stock 630 is what, 330 pounds or so?
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:36 AM   #62
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My limited experience...

I had an extended test ride of a DRZ. It was geared for the TAT trail by the previous owner, and had the nice idling 1st gear behavior that I would want. But the thing was positively screaming at highway speed. No good for me...I need to be able to ride some distance on 60-65mph farm country roads.

The TE610, geared with the same 1st gear pace, is walking along at 65mph. Doesn't even need 6th gear until 55mph. I just got back from a mountain trip that was 3 hours each way averaging about 60 and it was a piece of cake. Vibes? Sure...get over it. It's an endurance sport.

I didn't ride them side by side/back to back (a couple days apart), but the two bikes didn't "feel" any different weight-wise. Slow parking-lot figure-eights and some tail-drifting U-turns in a gravel lot felt about the same.

Now...the 525 EXC...that definitely feels a lot lighter. The gravel lot spin-turns were on a dime. I could turn in the length of the bike with no worries about over-cooking it and falling. If I lived closer to the mountains, the EXC would be my choice and I would just learn to live with the oil change interval.

WRR?...no 250 dual sport/dirt bike is suited for riding at 55-65mph, with camping gear, for 3+ hours. Period. If the trails were out my back door and I didn't need to ride with gear down the highway...maybe I'd own a 250. But hell...in the used market, buy a plated EXC for about the same price!
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:56 PM   #63
onetravdown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
WRR?...no 250 dual sport/dirt bike is suited for riding at 55-65mph, with camping gear, for 3+ hours. Period. If the trails were out my back door and I didn't need to ride with gear down the highway...maybe I'd own a 250.
Obviously you've never ridden a WRR or you wouldn't be spewing complete and utter bullshit.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:29 PM   #64
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Husky....Anyone use it two up for local scooting about anytime?

If so passenger opinions???

I know the saddle is thin but generally OK or crap?

Thanks

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Old 07-27-2011, 02:36 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
My limited experience...

WRR?...no 250 dual sport/dirt bike is suited for riding at 55-65mph, with camping gear, for 3+ hours. Period. If the trails were out my back door and I didn't need to ride with gear down the highway...maybe I'd own a 250. But hell...in the used market, buy a plated EXC for about the same price!

Bwahahahaha

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595729
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:37 PM   #66
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Nix on the two-up. I am certain you can fit two bodies on it, but I don't care to try.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:47 PM   #67
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Would value opinions for local stuff ...not too far...kind of 30 min rides on road to the shops ...

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Old 07-27-2011, 03:03 PM   #68
DiabloADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72 View Post
Obviously you've never ridden a WRR or you wouldn't be spewing complete and utter bullshit.
I have ridden one. Test rode it and took it back and said no thanks.

Just because something CAN be done with a particular tool doesn't make it the right tool.

My son rode his unicycle up our local 3500 foot mountain. Does that mean I should advise somebody about to buy a bike to ride up hills like that ... to buy a unicycle?

Sure, there's bragging rights in finishing a 3000 mile trip on a 250 street bike with dirt tires. But, really...why not buy a bigger actual dual-sport bike for the same money?
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:07 PM   #69
Fast1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIBO View Post
Husky....Anyone use it two up for local scooting about anytime?

If so passenger opinions???

I know the saddle is thin but generally OK or crap?

Thanks

A friend of mine has his girl friend on his all the time around town for distances up to 100 miles. He also owns a hayabusa and picks this TE630 over it for two-up around town.

I also took my girlfriend's SM630 with her on the back for a good 150 mile ride. Don't expect the passenger to like
the saddle unless their are wearing cycling shorts under their pants and you take breaks every 30 to 60 minutes.

The bike still accelerates proudly with two on it and turns high 40's running 75 mph and has superb braking. Keep in mind that our passengers weigh less than 125lbs. There are handholds on the 630s behind the seat that provide additional passenger comfort.

With a saddle change to allow more comfort (seat concepts) I would not hesitate to ride two up on dirt as long as it was not too muddy or sandy and did not require standing while riding.

She doesn't look like she is hating the ride with her smile does it??



My pax posing for a photo during a 100 mile plus ride

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Fast1 screwed with this post 07-28-2011 at 04:41 AM
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:30 PM   #70
Fast1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Ready to ride on a stock 630 is what, 330 pounds or so?
I'll try to find a truck scale and weigh it. I'm curious also. There is one local here in Minneapolis that we use for our autos when prepping them for SCCA events, I just need to get there with my bike.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:57 PM   #71
bobnoxious67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
... had no problem keeping up with 950's and stuff (as long as they didn't go much faster than 80!)

.
So...as long as the 950's were willing to keep the cruise speeds at a level your 250 could handle, you "had no problem keeping up"? Guess that goes for acceleration too...as long as they were willing to avoid actually opening the throttle when accelerating, you "had no problem keeping up"?
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:22 PM   #72
bobnoxious67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
well, for that particular ride, i had no problem keeping up with the 950, the 2 990's and an st2. we don't usually ride over 80, ever. no need really. yes, when they opened it up i couldn't keep up. i can keep up just fine in the corners.

no need for a swordfight, just stating an opposition to "bah a 250 couldn't go 55-60 with gear blah blah" yes, if i had more money i would have a bigger bike for longer trips. it's more comfortable. but is it necessary? not imho.

also, this is way off topic for the OP. i'll be quiet now!
I know that the WRR is the exception, and I like them. I just could't help jabbing at the sugar coating

"my Suzuki Samurai had NO PROBLEM keeping up with the Porsche, as long as they didn't go over 60"

This thread went off topic pages ago!
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:04 PM   #73
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I have a bike fully capable of going 55-60 or even 95 for days on end. WHo the hell wants to do that? If your goal is to go on an 'adventure' ride off-road and explore then 30-40 is perfect and either the Wr or the TE are great at that. The WR is lighter, just not lighter enough for me.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:46 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
I'm still on my first lynx, well first and a half. But c'mon it's not really fair to count stuff I BROKE as a double farkle

Oh, and I did forget the cup holder
Just giving you shit, cause I really do not even want to know how much I spent in farkles. In the old days a farkle was replacing handlebars with something new and straight after breaking the old ones trying to restraighten them. If we got into the monies you spent on broken things, your bones included, you could be riding a gold plated KTM 990



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Old 07-27-2011, 08:28 PM   #75
Fast1
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Some specs of each to ponder


WR250R

ENGINE
Type 250cc liquid-cooled DOHC 4-stroke; 4 valves
Bore x Stroke 77.0 x 53.6mm
Compression Ratio 11.8:1
Fuel Delivery Fuel injection
Ignition Direct ignition coil
Transmission Constant-mesh 6-speed; multiplate wet clutch
Final Drive Chain

CHASSIS
Suspension / Front Inverted fork; fully adjustable, 10.6-in travel
Suspension / Rear Single shock; fully adjustable, 10.6-in travel
Brakes / Front Hydraulic single-disc brake, 250mm
Brakes / Rear Hydraulic single-disc brake, 230mm
Tires / Front 80/100-21
Tires / Rear 120/80-18

DIMENSIONS
Length 85.6 in
Width 31.9 in
Height 48.4 in
Seat Height 36.6 in
Wheelbase 55.9 in
Ground Clearance 11.6 in
Fuel Capacity 2.0 gal (1.9 gal CA model)
Fuel Economy** 71 mpg
Wet Weight*** 298 lb (California model 297 lb)


TE630

DIMENSIONS, WEIGHT, CAPACITIES
Wheelbase 59.25in
Overall length 89.76in
Overall width 32.28in
Overall height 47.83in
Seat height 36.61in
Min. ground clearance 11.02in
Trail 4.53in
Kerb weight, without fuel 317.5lb / 144kg
Fuel tank capacity U.S. Gallons 3.17 / Imp. Gallons 2.63
Transmission oil U.S. Quarts 1.90 / Imp. Quarts 1.58
ENGINE
Type Single cylinder, four stroke
Bore 3.94in
Stroke 3.01in
Displacement 36.6cu.in / 600cc
Compression ratio 12.4:1
Starting Electric
Cooling Liquid cooled
Water radiator No. 2 (with electric fan)
LUBRICATION
Type Wet sump with lobe oil pump and cartridge filter
IGNITION
Type Electronic, inductive discharge, with adjustable advance (digital control)
Spark plug type NGK CR 8EB
Spark plug gap 0.0275-0.031in
FUEL SYSTEM
Type Electronic fuel injection
Brand and type Mikuni D45
CLUTCH
Type Wet, multiplate type; hydraulic control
Number of driving discs 8
Number of driven discs 7
TRANSMISSION
Type Constant mesh gear type
Number of gears 6
SECONDARY DRIVE
Transmission sprocket Teeth 15
Rear wheel sprocket Teeth 42
Transmission ratio 2,800
DRIVING CHAIN
Brand and type D.I.D. 520 V6 (5/8"x1/4")
FRAME
Type Steel single tube cradle; rear frame in light alloy
FRONT SUSPENSION
Type Upside-Down telescopic hydraulic fork with advanced axle; rebound stroke adjustment
Fork legs dia. 1.97in
Travel on legs axis 10.63in
Front fork manufacturer Marzocchi
REAR SUSPENSION
Type Progressive "Soft Damp" type with single hydraulic shock absorber; spring preload adjustment, compression and rebound adjustment (compression stroke: double adjustment)
Wheel travel 12.6in
Shock absorber manufacturer Sachs
BRAKES
Front Floating disc with hydraulic control and floating caliper
Disc dia. 10.24in
Rear Floating disc with hydraulic control and floating caliper
Disc dia. 8.66in
WHEELS
Front Light alloy
Size 1,6x21"
Rear Light alloy
Size 2.15x18"
TIRES
Front Pirelli MT21 / Metzeler MCE Karoo
Size 90/90-21"
Rear Pirelli MT21 / Metzeler MCE Karoo
Size 140/80-18"
INTERNAL RATIOS
1st 2,615 (34/13)
2nd 1,812 (29/16)
3rd 1,350 (27/20)
4th 1,091 (24/22)
5th 0,916 (22/24)
6th 0,796 (20/26)
PRIMARY DRIVE
Engine sprocket Teeth 32
Clutch gear Teeth 75
Transmission ratio 2,343
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Voltage 12V
Headlight 60W
Pilot light 5W
Tail light "LED" type
Stop light 21W
Turn signals 10W
Battery 12V - 12Ah
TIMING SYSTEM
Type DOHC, 4 valve
OVERALL RATIOS
1st 17,163
2nd 11,894
3rd 8,859
4th 7,159
5th 6,016
6th 5,048


Notable Differences
  • WR has over 3" shorter wheelbase
  • ground clearance is similar
  • seat height is identical
  • TE has 1.2 gl more fuel stock
  • TE 20lbs heavier stock
  • TE 4" longer - over all length
  • front suspension - same travel
  • TE rear suspension has 2" more travel

I suspect to some since the WR is a much shorter bike (length and wheelbase) that it feels more agile in tight single track environments. Conversely the TE is probably better able to handle a passenger and/or more luggage weight due to its size. I would also assume it would feel more stable at higher speeds encountered on both pavement and dirt. Since the TE has more rear suspension travel including slow and high speed compression adjustments it, IMO, would most likely handle rougher terrain at greater speed and comfort. Smaller physique riders may find the WR easier to ride while larger riders may find the TE easier to ride and not notice the extra 20 lb difference.

I know that removing the factory exhaust on the TE and replacing it with a single Leo TI makes a very noticeable difference both in weight (17.5 lbs light) and even rear pre-load settings.
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