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Old 08-06-2011, 02:50 PM   #16
Whale Rider
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I cant take credit for this these are words of wisdom from Woody

for serious hard-core off road a 1.6x21 is optimal max rim protection and better off road handling,,whereas the 2.15 is just too wide to handle the off-road hits and will bend for sure,,it does keep the sidewalls straighter for pavement work,,but it's a mute point when considering how much better the 19'' wheel works on the slab.and in the twisties

OBTW you can also go 1.85x21'' AND genuine tubeless X-laced to match your rear.....the front rim of a r100GS/PD will lace up to your 1100 hubs..these come in polished aluminum ,,we anodize them clear to match your rear oem rim
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:02 PM   #17
Fab418 OP
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Welding the neck

Finally my friend Gary who teaches welding class was free and came over to my place to work on the project. I know how to weld but I'm not confident enough in my aluminum skills at this point to weld such a vital part (for me and for the bike ). Plus, Gary did at least 10 HD frame mods so far so he knows how it's done. I just have to watch him closely so I don't end up with a racked out rig.

The parts on the jig:


We made sure that everything was straight and Gary proceeded:




He then welded a 2x2 on the inside to give it strength:


Then, we made the side caps (no pics) but it was getting late and Gary had to go so I would have to finish by myself or wait some more time. Since everything was already straight and solid, I decided that I would give it a go. Please go easy on me as I only welded aluminum for about a foot long in my brief career.

First I made a reinforcement plate to put below the 2x2:


Then I capped everything for strength and to protect it from dust and other debris. I've cut the pieces a bit loose and had to do some filling on the bottom corners. Not the best look but it should be strong:


The final result. Notice the top gusset (angle cut 2x2) and that I placed the CR's neck an inch above to compensate for the 2 and 1/2 inches longer forks of the CR. This should leave room to adjust the sag with 12inches of travel versus the 6 or so the 11gs has. I will also have the option to slip the tubes in the triple clamps if needed:


Next time I will be trying the forks on the bike without brakes; I've not bought the rotor yet...

Stay tuned
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:15 PM   #18
Murkidi
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wating to see the miss piggy when comes out from the plastic sugeron!!! it is going to be a babe!!!! nice job
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:48 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Murkidi View Post
wating to see the miss piggy when comes out from the plastic sugeron!!! it is going to be a babe!!!! nice job


I just hope it will be less expensive than a boob job...
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:29 AM   #20
Deadly99
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Welds look good Fab
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:12 AM   #21
Kawidad
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Very nice. Your welds don't look bad at all. I wish mine were half that good.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:19 AM   #22
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:35 PM   #23
sailah
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great job!! Im another rookie alum welder. It gets easier, although I'm still a long way away from that stacked dime look. You certainly won't outgrow that syncrowave!!
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Old 09-29-2011, 05:54 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
great job!! Im another rookie alum welder. It gets easier, although I'm still a long way away from that stacked dime look. You certainly won't outgrow that syncrowave!!
Thanks! and the syncrowave is an awesome machine. I'm starting to have fun with it now.

Yesterday I wasn't so busy so I started taking the old parts off and putting the new ones on.

Had to fabricate a bracket to hold the headlight adjuster. Not super clean looking but I plan on redesigning the instrument cluster so this is kinda temporary:



Here's the almost finished look:



Few things need attention now. Steering won't turn completely to the right so I'll have to grind some of the gray plastic to make room for the bottom triple and I need to route a few cables here and there. Forks will also need to be reworked in order to cope with the weight of the gs.

Next installment; the first ride!
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:45 AM   #25
sailah
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EDIT:saw you're going to use a KTM 320 rotor. Just an fyi, I bought a 950 caliper yesterday before I bagged using KTM forks, so I probably won't end up using it. I don't know if they are functionally the same as the RFS calipers, more power etc or not, but let me know if you want it. I also have a 950 master cyl and brake line.

EDIT

I'm going through the same thing now. I just bought a few 320mm sport bike calipers and rotor set on ebay and going to see what works the best. I know there will need to be adapters made but that's par for the course.

I got a 6! piston caliper from a GSXR for $20!! Course it probably won't work...

I went from a cheap chinese inverter TIG machine then just recently upgraded to a Lincoln Precision TIG. I honestly can't say I can really tell a difference in the welds, but the Lincoln is much higher quality. It also has pulse which I have begun to play with on lighter aluminum. I think it's a little of a gimmick but maybe haven't played with it enough. Just don't have epilepsy with it on
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:20 AM   #26
Fab418 OP
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
do you plan on upgrading the brakes? I may have missed that.

I'm going through the same thing now. I just bought a few 320mm sport bike calipers and rotor set on ebay and going to see what works the best. I know there will need to be adapters made but that's par for the course.

I got a 6! piston caliper from a GSXR for $20!! Course it probably won't work...
I plan on running a Galfer 300mm just like they use on the 690 KTM. I wan't to run a 4 piston caliper as I hear bad things about 6 pots and the newer bikes (Busa and all) all run 4 pots. I have a set of Busa 6 pots here but I will try to find some four pots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I went from a cheap chinese inverter TIG machine then just recently upgraded to a Lincoln Precision TIG. I honestly can't say I can really tell a difference in the welds, but the Lincoln is much higher quality. It also has pulse which I have begun to play with on lighter aluminum. I think it's a little of a gimmick but maybe haven't played with it enough. Just don't have epilepsy with it on
I'm halfway through your tread and I've see you had that inverter. Good thing you've got a Lincoln I think. About putting the filler in before making the pool, I'm not sure it's the best way to achieve dime stacks.. I have more control when moving the pool around then adding filler as needed. I've been amazed at how much you can work the pool with the right amount of power before adding filler. All the time my teacher friend was welding, I was looking at him and learned a great deal that way.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:00 AM   #27
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I'm a little concerned about the strength of what you have going on there. I've done considerably more structurally and I've gotten comments questioning the strength and you haven't done anything to strengthen structurally.

The swingarm/wishbone thing had half the load or so in the original suspension. I can't imagine that the two little struts that the coil bolts to will be enough to keep the front end from just folding over on itself.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:20 AM   #28
Fab418 OP
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'm a little concerned about the strength of what you have going on there. I've done considerably more structurally and I've gotten comments questioning the strength and you haven't done anything to strengthen structurally.

The swingarm/wishbone thing had half the load or so in the original suspension. I can't imagine that the two little struts that the coil bolts to will be enough to keep the front end from just folding over on itself.
I've been looking a lot at the original setup trying to figure where the load goes. IMO, the swingarm does not carry load at all except when braking. All the load goes through to the upper shock mount which is bolted to the steering column. Tell me if I'm wrong.

Here's one made of steel http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ght=conversion and there's also a comany called Backer or Baaker (not sure) who makes a simillar steel item.

From what I can figure, all the stress goes into these 2 lill struts and Ive been bottoming the stock one multiple times with no side effect. So IMHO, all you did was adding weight to an already well designed structure but who knows, I might face plant myself and learn from my mistakes. Again
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:44 AM   #29
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fab418 View Post
I've been looking a lot at the original setup trying to figure where the load goes. IMO, the swingarm does not carry load at all except when braking. All the load goes through to the upper shock mount which is bolted to the steering column. Tell me if I'm wrong.

Here's one made of steel http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ght=conversion and there's also a comany called Backer or Baaker (not sure) who makes a simillar steel item.

From what I can figure, all the stress goes into these 2 lill struts and Ive been bottoming the stock one multiple times with no side effect. So IMHO, all you did was adding weight to an already well designed structure but who knows, I might face plant myself and learn from my mistakes. Again

I'm no engineer, but half or more of the load goes into the swingarm pivot, there is a ratio there based on where the shock mounts.

I wouldn't run the one in that link either, it's too close to being a pivot.

I'm nowhere near done here, but I'm tying the front all the back into the rear subframe.

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Old 09-29-2011, 09:55 AM   #30
Fab418 OP
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'm no engineer, but half or more of the load goes into the swingarm pivot
No engineer either but if it's a pivot doesn't it just transfer that load to the upper mount?

Well maybe an engineer will stumble across this post and sort this out

Or maybe time will tell.
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