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Old 03-15-2012, 07:20 AM   #61
AirstreamBoy
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No signs of leaking at all, double checked after a quick ride this morning. I went ahead and ordered the clamp from BeemerBoneyard. I'll go ahead and get the metal QD fittings also. Might as well get it all done.


I must compliment Mike at beemerboneyard, we were exchanging emails pretty late last night, and he asked for a couple of pictures to confirm the correct fittings. Great customer service!

Here's hoping the clamp will keep it from getting worse.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:37 AM   #62
David13
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I saw that clamp develop and now they sell it at BBY. I see on the R forum someone says it's no problem. Like the FD and the FPC. Well, I'm a believer, since I had the FPC failure on the side of a mountain in Mexico.
And now I think I'll do something about the fuel leak based on the cracks, before I'm out there again.
However, I don't know about the metal quick disconnects. There was some theory that they caused the plastic to crack, or possibly aggravated the cracking possibility.
So, is it a good idea to go with the clamp AND the metal qds, or just the clamp?
dc
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:11 AM   #63
Mike Figielski
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Hey DC,
Our experience has been that as long as the metal screw in fitting is not over torqued and the sealant supplied is allowed to set up before installing and cure for 24 hours before starting the bike there are no issues. I have installed them on 2 personal bikes (which did not have any cracks) without any issues and we have had a lot of customers use them without problems. If you have cracks already (without leaks) I'd suggest installing the metal fitting and using the clamp to prevent any progression of the cracks. If you have leaks already I'd say remove the plastic female fitting, clean everything and use JB Weld on the threads and reinstall the plastic fitting then install the clamp.

If anyone has a 2008 or 2009 GS we could use help nailing down the exact fittings used on your bike so we can make sure our QD kits are correct. I started another thread here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773017
Thanks!
Mike
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:08 PM   #64
WeazyBuddha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Figielski View Post
Hey DC,
Our experience has been that as long as the metal screw in fitting is not over torqued and the sealant supplied is allowed to set up before installing and cure for 24 hours before starting the bike there are no issues. I have installed them on 2 personal bikes (which did not have any cracks) without any issues and we have had a lot of customers use them without problems. If you have cracks already (without leaks) I'd suggest installing the metal fitting and using the clamp to prevent any progression of the cracks. If you have leaks already I'd say remove the plastic female fitting, clean everything and use JB Weld on the threads and reinstall the plastic fitting then install the clamp.

If anyone has a 2008 or 2009 GS we could use help nailing down the exact fittings used on your bike so we can make sure our QD kits are correct. I started another thread here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773017
Thanks!
Mike
All pictures I've posted are from my 2008 non-adventure GS, if that helps.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:15 PM   #65
Mike Figielski
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Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
All pictures I've posted are from my 2008 non-adventure GS, if that helps.
Thanks. Need pics and or description of what type of fittings are on the right and left side. The right side especially.
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:36 PM   #66
AirstreamBoy
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I received the clamp to reinforce the flange from Mike at BeemerBoneyard; but I can't get it to seat completely around the flange. The three 'nubs' next to the QR code, prevent the camp from dropping completely down. Should I file the two closest nubs off or is there a trick to orienting the clamp?




Although there was no leaking from the flange, they sure do look deep! The cracks almost extend through the first thread.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:58 PM   #67
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstreamBoy View Post
I received the clamp to reinforce the flange from Mike at BeemerBoneyard; but I can't get it to seat completely around the flange. The three 'nubs' next to the QR code, prevent the camp from dropping completely down. Should I file the two closest nubs off or is there a trick to orienting the clamp?




Although there was no leaking from the flange, they sure do look deep! The cracks almost extend through the first thread.
You were one warm day from a leak.

I do not have the new part, but I see no reason not to trim the nubs to allow it to fit.

Jim
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:45 PM   #68
David13
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I would say with cracks that well developed, you may want to use some jbweld or other appropriate epoxy in there, like Mike suggests, and thread sealer, of some type.. I think jvb is right. One day away from your leaks.
dc
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:34 AM   #69
Swinefahrt
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I installed my ring without any difficulty other than the fiddly tightening of the screw. Wouldn't it be easier to grind off some of the ring where it would seat over the "nubs"?
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:18 AM   #70
JStancampiano
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Tapered pipe threads into plastic is just stupid engineering (it's called VE by manufacturers, value engineering, ie make it cheaper) . It should have had machine threads with an internal o ring, or both sides made out of metal (al). Lets hope this fix works. I looked at the other side (right) on mine, and it is developing cracks also.

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Old 03-18-2012, 06:38 AM   #71
Meersen
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I have 2 cracks in 08 GSA no leaks-- bought the new ring and I am thinking of using MEK instead of JB weld . The MEK would be easy to work with and literally fuse the crack. I am still wondering where people are putting the JB weld on the tiny cracks before putting the new ring on. Any thought are appreciated.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:47 AM   #72
AirstreamBoy
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Metal Clamp

I've gone ahead and installed the clamp as well as a metal fitting. If this doesn't hold the cracks and prevent leaks, then I'll probably go ahead and just order one of the new style flange assemblies. Here's to 'Hope as a course of action'!

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Old 03-22-2012, 06:47 AM   #73
AirstreamBoy
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Success... So far.

I finished switching to all metal QDs, let the thread sealant cure overnight, and ensured the clamp was snug around the flange. Reinstalled everything and after a long spirited test ride, there's no sign of leaks and no smell of fuel in the garage afterwards.

However, now the fuel gauge won't register. So I went back and confirmed that everything was connected. Still no luck. Would removing the gas tank cause the fuel strip to go bad? Guess I need to read thru the several fuel strip threads... Grrr.



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Old 03-22-2012, 08:55 AM   #74
TXjames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstreamBoy View Post
Success... So far.

I finished switching to all metal QDs, let the thread sealant cure overnight, and ensured the clamp was snug around the flange. Reinstalled everything and after a long spirited test ride, there's no sign of leaks and no smell of fuel in the garage afterwards.

However, now the fuel gauge won't register. So I went back and confirmed that everything was connected. Still no luck. Would removing the gas tank cause the fuel strip to go bad? Guess I need to read thru the several fuel strip threads... Grrr.
Anything is possible. I just washed my bike last night. Fuel strip was working before and is now no longer registering... flashing error and all. It was replaced by BMW less than a year ago (grossly inaccurate straight outta the shop I might add). There are some good troubleshooting tips on the last page or two here: Faulty Fuel Level Strips. I'm specifically referring to pin assignments and resistances.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:41 AM   #75
Paul Mihalka
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Just in case, any new BMW part installed by a dealer has a two year warranty parts and labor.
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