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Old 03-29-2012, 05:58 PM   #76
AirstreamBoy
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A quick update: it's been up to mid 70's here in Colorado Springs and after a few long rides around the area, the updated parts from beemerboneyard are working great.

Now if only the fuel strip would spontaneously start working again I would be ecstatic.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:17 AM   #77
koutadog
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Started my '07 GS on the weekend and let it idle while i moved the car out of the way. Came back to find smoke coming off the front of the bike.
Had a closer look and something was dripping on the header, followed it up the inside of the tank and fuel was pooled on the top of the fuel pump. Shut the bike down quick smart, soaked up the pooled fuel, wiped the tank clean and jumped on here to find a fix. What a forum.

Contacted the local dealer, 1500 km's away and they have not heard of the problem. Need to send them photos and a link to this thread.
See if i can get warranty, might be pushing it up hill.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:57 AM   #78
DaveyMac
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Its a well documented problem. Someone invented this fix, only place to buy it is HERE.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:24 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by AirstreamBoy View Post
I've gone ahead and installed the clamp as well as a metal fitting. If this doesn't hold the cracks and prevent leaks, then I'll probably go ahead and just order one of the new style flange assemblies. Here's to 'Hope as a course of action'!

This is the way I am thinking of going... metal QD coupler + clamp... both from Beemer Boneyard. Now, my only question is what to use to seal the threads and cracks?

While I thought I'd use JB Weld, my research continues after a conversation with Mike at Beemer Boneyard.

Apparently, there is a Loctite product that works, and it if it works, you can still remove the metal QD coupler if you need to. If it doesn't work, then it appears that JB Weld or 21425 Fixmaster Fast Cure Epoxy Mixer Cups (recommended by Dirty_Sanchez) is the way to go, but the coupler is then in there permanently.

Still working with DS to see if there is a good Loctite thread sealer product, but perhaps someone here knows the answer?
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:29 AM   #80
JStancampiano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Visian View Post
This is the way I am thinking of going... metal QD coupler + clamp... both from Beemer Boneyard. Now, my only question is what to use to seal the threads and cracks?

While I thought I'd use JB Weld, my research continues after a conversation with Mike at Beemer Boneyard.

Apparently, there is a Loctite product that works, and it if it works, you can still remove the metal QD coupler if you need to. If it doesn't work, then it appears that JB Weld or 21425 Fixmaster Fast Cure Epoxy Mixer Cups (recommended by Dirty_Sanchez) is the way to go, but the coupler is then in there permanently.



Still working with DS to see if there is a good Loctite product, but perhaps someone here knows the answer?
I used Yamabond case sealer (the grey stuff) on the tapered pipe threads on the quick connect from beemer boneyard. The stuff they supplied leaked and the yamabond has been working fine for the last 20k miles.

Joe
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:42 PM   #81
rdcyclist
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[rant/on]Some more VE from BMW, like the extruded aluminum drive flanges, that will lead to premature failure of a part that should last the life of the bike. Not only tapered pipe threads into plastic but molded threads depending upon the thread to flange tolerance of two parts to manage the amount of stress introduced to the assembly. I understand shit that wears out like seals, bearings and so on but this stuff shouldn't be crapping out at 30k...[rant/off]

Whew, I feel much better...

That said, both the flange and the quick-disconnect are made of Delrin (aka acetal plastic). Not much sticks very well to unprepared Delrin and J-B Weld (aka 3M 2216) is not one of those things. In the case of this style repair it's even less likely to stick well with a bond gap well below the optimum .010". It is pretty fuel resistant and will seal these cracks when used along with the clamp shown in the previous posts. Just make sure it cures for at least 24 hours at room temp (>65 degrees F) or 1.5 hours at 150 degrees F before introducing it to gasoline.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:35 PM   #82
ragtoplvr
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Report to the NSHTA and the EPA While you are at it tell CARB. All take a dim view of fuel leaking. Who ever engineered this is an idiot and deserves to be fired, preferable with fuel that leaks out of these.

Rod
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:28 PM   #83
scooteraug02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwm650 View Post
Its a well documented problem. Someone invented this fix, only place to buy it is HERE.
Always thinking would this work from McMaster Carr



5/8"
3/4"
7/8"
1"
1 1/8"
1 1/4"
1 3/8"
1 1/2"

P.S. The bike will run with one fuel line connected correct? Was 700 miles into a trip and heard a noise up front. I looked around and the right fuel line was not connected. I had a few recalls that required removing the tank. I snapped it in on the go and nothing changed.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:07 PM   #84
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooteraug02 View Post

P.S. The bike will run with one fuel line connected correct? Was 700 miles into a trip and heard a noise up front. I looked around and the right fuel line was not connected. I had a few recalls that required removing the tank. I snapped it in on the go and nothing changed.
Not for very long.

Jim
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:34 PM   #85
koutadog
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Not the usual place for a leak

Well repaired the cracks in the manifold or so I thought.
Fuel was still leaking so removed tank and tipped it up to test. The fuel was leaking from near the sender unit where the retaining screw fits.
Cleaned it, scratched it up and stuck on some metal putty and fixed. Had to trim down the leg of the sender unti so it sat flat.
All is good again and didn't have to pay $800 AUD as quoted for a new fuel pump




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Old 10-05-2012, 05:51 PM   #86
okennon
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Propper thread sealant

Clamps around the lange is not necessary if your thread sealant prevents the fuel from reaching the top of the flange where the cracks are located. Another good product from locktite is 567 used in the petroleum and natural gas industry. It's a thicker viscosity pipe thread seal thats inert around fuels. It sealed both my 07RT and 06GS cracked flanges. I have yet to replace my QDs.



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Old 11-15-2012, 09:48 PM   #87
camnowell
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Thanks to the OP and everybody else for keeping this thread alive. I inspected the flanges on my 2008 GSA a few months ago and found radial cracks on both of them. I took a look at various fixes for the problem and ultimately went with the Flange Repair Clamp (Item# BBRK12FUELPMPCLMP) and CPC Chrome Plated Brass quick disconnects (Item# Bbcpcqkdcfemaleth) from Beemer Boneyards. It's a bit more than I wanted to spend, but it's worth it IMHO for peace of mind. At least that's what I keep telling myself to justify the $35 clamps x2. I have found myself in some pretty far out, backwoods areas, riding solo lately and wanted to make sure this little problem was fixed.

Anyway, I thought I would pay it forward a bit by keeping this thread going and post the progress of how I fixed the issue. The install was extremely easy and, since it was about time for another 6K service, the timing was perfect. After running the tank almost dry - had to actually stop for one gallon of gas to make it home from a day trip up to Silver City, NM - I field stripped the bike and removed the tank to make it easy to access the fittings.

Here you can clearly - - see the cracks developing around the plastic collar on the left side:
Photobucket

And on the right side:
Photobucket

Here is a pic of the clamps installed. I just very lightly snugged the clamps until I installed the QD's, after which I tightened them to German specs - guddinetite.
Photobucket

Photobucket

The metal quick disconnects each came with a small tube of gas resistant thread sealant so I didn't need to buy anything else to seal the threads. Forgot to take a picture of that step - my bad. According to the instructions, you apply the sealant liberally to the threads and let it sit for 1/2 hour to get tacky. I obviously took the "liberally" term to heart. I figure it will only help to better seal the fittings anyway. Here is a pic of the QD's installed after I thoroughly cleaned the threads of old sealant and gas residue.
Photobucket

Photobucket

I finished installing the fittings last night and then let the sealant set up completely overnight - ended up being about 24 hours before I was able to get everything put back together. I lightly touched the sealant around the edges before hooking up the fuel lines to see just how much it dried up and was surprised that it was still "wet". I'm not sure if it will eventually harden somewhat or stay tacky. I figure it will be covered by a nice protective cover of dust and dirt fairly soon anyway, so no worries. Hopefully, this will have this little issue fixed permanently.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:36 PM   #88
TXjames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camnowell View Post
Hopefully, this will have this little issue fixed permanently.
Now just carry the regulator jumper and you should have all your fueling failures addressed.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:34 AM   #89
mikegc
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1200GS Fuel Pump Flange Crack

Question for you guys: I've an '09 GSA and have installed the clamp on left (clutch) side flange. Do I need another on the right side? By the way, I've had no cracking/leaking issues but this just seemed to be a good preventive measure.

Mike
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:24 AM   #90
WeazyBuddha
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Why not just use the upgraded BMW part instead of going with the boneyard fix?
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