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Old 06-22-2014, 08:15 PM   #1
walkingbear OP
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Wiring a battery in the trunk to bike

I'm trying to gage the amount wire needed to wire R1150GS battery box to
the trunk of the sidecar.

What size wire and how much play should there be.

I'm guessing 8ft from the battery following the lines of the
bike and bring it in under the sidecar
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:14 AM   #2
davebig
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I believe that if you use a decent size cable lenght is not an issue, this is what I used http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-6-gauge-A...item2c802bd280
If that gives you pause switch to heavier cable # 4 if the batterys is to be in the trunk it'll need a vent somewhere.DB
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:32 AM   #3
Melrone
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I've been thinking about this for awhile now. But now it may happen this winter..Now that I don't have to worry about my rig breaking..By the way how did things turnout with your rebuilt frame...
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:15 PM   #4
Carl Childers
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Use the heavier 6 volt rated cable on that long of a run and you'll have considerably less voltage drop than with the lighter 12 volt cable if you are looking for maximum battery performance.

Leave a small half loop bend in the run between the tub and the bike, if things should shift/bend/ flex a little it will more than compensate.
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:14 PM   #5
JustKip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
if the batterys is to be in the trunk it'll need a vent somewhere.DB
Is this also true with an Odyssey battery?
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:57 PM   #6
davebig
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Originally Posted by JustKip View Post
Is this also true with an Odyssey battery?
We had this discussion awhile back and nothing was concluded, I use an optima and they have a vent.
Carl cable with more small strands (welding cable) is superior to conventional battery cable.DB
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:15 PM   #7
redfishguide
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I checked this with Odyssee. While it will not need to vent under normal conditions if over charged it will "off gas" and that could be a problem. Short version I would vent. I am using two Odyssee's in my rig.
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:55 PM   #8
Carl Childers
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Dave, interesting, never considered that!
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:45 PM   #9
walkingbear OP
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took a string out

Old fashion way of doing it. Took a string and added a 1/2 loop
came out to 9.5 ft

deep cycle battery plus using a sub panel on the bike
and sub panel on the car.

CPAP will be fully working.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melrone View Post
I've been thinking about this for awhile now. But now it may happen this winter..Now that I don't have to worry about my rig breaking..By the way how did things turnout with your rebuilt frame...
cost me 1700 but it tracks really nicely and with the front stabilizer bar.. it is great
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Old 06-25-2014, 06:24 PM   #11
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Question "Front Stabilizer Bar"

Is that a steering damper?

If not, then what? How about pics.

Thanks,
Duncan
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:36 PM   #12
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Duncan (Kept Man !)
I think what the Bear is referring to is that he ended up with 3 upper arms one on the front where it belonged in the first place.When he got his mounting improved or at least brought up to what DMC selling today.DB
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:41 PM   #13
walkingbear OP
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yes, that extra bar plus a steering dampner. Great riding now.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:28 AM   #14
Jim K in PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkingbear View Post
Old fashion way of doing it. Took a string and added a 1/2 loop
came out to 9.5 ft

deep cycle battery plus using a sub panel on the bike
and sub panel on the car.

CPAP will be fully working.
Late to the party on this, but your local truck parts shop or welding supply should have the fine stranded cable you want. My cargo box has the battery mounted inside and there is probably 4-5 feet of cable to it. #4 should be fine, but tend to upsize to #2. or double aught.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:05 AM   #15
davebig
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[QUOTE= cable to it. #4 should be fine, but tend to upsize to #2. or double aught. [/QUOTE]

Easy Jerry he's only going to run his machine and start his bike, I don't think he'll be doing any spot welding !
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