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Old 07-31-2011, 01:47 AM   #1
The Other JC OP
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R1200GS rear drive off spline - what does that mean work wise?

R1200GS Adventure 2007

OK, so putting the bike back together from a transmission input seal replacement, rear frame to front frame, it refused to connect, so with quickly darkening sky I had to pull the frame apart again for another weekend.
But the drive shaft stuck fast on the transmission output spline and I had no choice eventually but to pull the drive shaft out quite a way before it let go on the spline.
I have read that the drive shaft "..will come off the splines of the final drive end" and I will have to "strip off the final drive to reassemble it to the splines". It definitely came off the final drive end, spinning freely.

What does that mean? Can I not just push the shaft back in, turn the rear wheel until it re-meshes in the worm final drive?

I cannot find any real info on the final drive at that end, perhaps it is simpler than I am imagining having read further.
Any insight would be appreciated before I strip the whole thing down to figure it.

The Other JC screwed with this post 07-31-2011 at 02:06 AM Reason: not a worm drive at that point
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:55 AM   #2
opposedcyljunkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Other JC View Post
What does that mean? Can I not just push the shaft back in, turn the rear wheel until it re-meshes in the worm final drive?

There's nothing much to it. Maybe "stripping off the final drive" meant that you will have to remove the paralever arm to drop the FD to re-insert the driveshaft into the FD. The only difficulty I had was to hold the heavy FD with my left hand while propping up the driveshaft splines with a screwdriver and hope it inserts easily. Remember that there is a rubber gaiter attached so sighting the insertion isn't easy. The wobbly u-joint of the driveshaft doesn't make things easier. I found it much easier to have the gaiter attached to the FD rather than the swingarm when inserting the splines.

Good chance to lube the splines while you're there.
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:18 AM   #3
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All you have to do at this point to reengage the rear splines of the driveshaft to the final drive input splines is like what you'd do for a final drive oil change. That is, remove the bolt at the rear of the torque arm above the Paralever, remove the sensor and wires that plug into the FD housing and unbolt the rear brake caliper. The caliper and sensor stay with the rest of the bike, and once the torque arm rear bolt is removed just pivot the FD downward. Then staring you in the face will be the rear splines of the driveshaft. Just put some spline lube on the FD input shaft male splines, and pivot the FD back into position while supporting/engaging the male and female splines. This takes a little finesse, but isn't hard to do. Reattach and torque everything down and you're done.

Oh yeah, depending how far down you pivot the FD, you may have oil start running out the FD sensor hole. Might be a good time to just drain the FD oil and refill it with fresh stuff once everything is back in position.

Also, since the forward end of the driveshaft secures into position on the gearbox output shaft with a circlip and you had it off, be sure and give the rear of the driveshaft a rap with a rubber mallet to be sure the circlip is engaged. You should not be able to pull the driveshaft rearward by hand once that engagement is made.
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:26 AM   #4
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I just used a bit of rope to let the FD hang, insted of removing it from the other connections.

About the floppy drive shaft end going to the trans. I use a few ballons stretched over the joint to hold it stiff & put a finger or two between the forward black rubber boot located between the back of the trans & front of the shaft tube. Then feed the shaft inside the shaft tube forward. Have also used long thick sip ties running the length of the shaft & rubber band them them around the joint & after connection to the trans, I hold the shaft w/ one hand & pull out the zip ties. The bands & balloon left inside on the shaft tube will hurt nothing.


I use the Honda 60 Molly Grease on both ends of the shaft.

Would not hurt to put a spot of grease on the needle bearings at the pivot area between the FD & the shaft tube.

Anyone know of anyone reusing the BMW shaft w/ grease fitting in the U-joints?

Not meaning to thread jack?
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:46 AM   #5
LaurelPerryOnLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub View Post
All you have to do at this point to reengage the rear splines of the driveshaft to the final drive input splines is like what you'd do for a final drive oil change. That is, remove the bolt at the rear of the torque arm above the Paralever, remove the sensor and wires that plug into the FD housing and unbolt the rear brake caliper. The caliper and sensor stay with the rest of the bike, and once the torque arm rear bolt is removed just pivot the FD downward. Then staring you in the face will be the rear splines of the driveshaft. Just put some spline lube on the FD input shaft male splines, and pivot the FD back into position while supporting/engaging the male and female splines. This takes a little finesse, but isn't hard to do. Reattach and torque everything down and you're done.

Oh yeah, depending how far down you pivot the FD, you may have oil start running out the FD sensor hole. Might be a good time to just drain the FD oil and refill it with fresh stuff once everything is back in position.

Also, since the forward end of the driveshaft secures into position on the gearbox output shaft with a circlip and you had it off, be sure and give the rear of the driveshaft a rap with a rubber mallet to be sure the circlip is engaged. You should not be able to pull the driveshaft rearward by hand once that engagement is made.
Here's a trick I've discovered to get the 2 parts (above) back together:


1. Make sure you're bike is in NEUTRAL so the female part can freely rotate.

2. Make a "U-Shaped" piece of wire from stainless safety wire (or any other wire) to hold up the spline part. This will allow you to move the spline UP/DOWN and LEFT/RIGHT with some degree of accuracy. May take a little jiggling but should take no more than 30-seconds to complete.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:54 PM   #6
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Take a look at this: http://www.snafu.org/pics/r1200gs/20...ice/page4.html Not much involved other than how fiddley it is to get the driveshaft u-joint hooked back up to the transmission out put spline. Not much room to work in at the transmission end. And take a look at this towards the bottom of the page: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295173

I found that the zip ties available in the US are the wrong dimension (width) for fastening the boot down to the transmission. The boot has a groove for the zip tie, it's metric. So I ended up getting a couple from the dealer.
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:19 AM   #7
The Other JC OP
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thanks

Thanks for the advice people,

The hardest part of doing the gearbox input seal so far has been the fuggin' drive shaft, well it is my first time with this machine.

I now know the easy way, but getting there took half a day!

I would add though that having the wheel end off the swing arm helped considerably in applying the shaft at the gearbox end. Gently turning the drive shaft and applying forward pressure while holding the u-joint against the gearbox output spline made it a breeze. Also turning it back and forth while applying pressure with a lever to get it over the circlip helped.

I recommend a practice run of fitting the drive shaft at the wheel stub end without the boot in place. Took about an hour of cussing before I came to that realisation as you can clearly see what needs to happen. Hold the u-joint up at the knuckle and place against the stub, turn the wheel slowly, it will slide on quite easily, refit rubber boot, repeat.

What I am learning about re-assembling the bike: There are no shortcuts.

I have ordered the right size cable-ties from China. China ffs. via eBay. Cheaper than buying 100 cable ties at my local hardware store. Could not find 3.6mm x 300mm cable ties anywhere. I have fitted a 4.5mm cable tie to the gearbox output boot, but its really too wide for that application.


The only bitch, the rubber boot at the gearbox end got trapped inside the flange at the bottom when the frame went back together... spent about 3 hours trying to free it a day later after fitting the drive shaft. Finally unbolting the spring, raising the swing arm to release pressure on the rubber, applying heat via heatgun to soften the rubber, bending fingers in an unnatural manner to massage the rubber out and around the flange in a space meant only for small spiders.... shall not forget that again.

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Old 08-08-2011, 04:59 AM   #8
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Just zip-tie two smaller zip-ties together and use them for the boot. No need for special length zip-ties.

Otherwise you discovered the keys to the rest of the work.



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Old 08-08-2011, 05:34 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Just zip-tie two smaller zip-ties together and use them for the boot. No need for special length zip-ties.
I was going to, but could I find my short 3.6mm ties that have been bugging the crap out of me for 6 months cause they keep falling out the packet? NO!.

so I figure get some long ones .. from China..same price!!!
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