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Old 08-10-2011, 05:34 AM   #31
JimVonBaden
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Kevin,

At this point you may need to do that. It is difficult to tell someone how to do something that is more a show how kind of thing.

George is right. You get the boot into the swingarm correctly and then install the driveshaft, then attach the other side of the boot into the trans side.

You may have to install the driveshaft with the boot loose, then put it on the swingarm, and you may find it easier if you remove the rear shock and lift the swingarm up as high as you can, but it certainly can be done. Even with the swingarm off you still will have the same issues when trying to reinstall the swingarm of getting the boot, driveshaft and swingarm all lined up at the same time.

It is really a matter of getting that back part in first, then the rest. I put the plastic retainer in the boot, snapped the boot into the swingarm, then pushed the driveshaft into place, and then the front part of the boot. I did this with the shock in place, and swingarm not lifted. It was a pain, but not that bad.

Jim
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:24 AM   #32
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Tiz - I'm totally sympathetic with your travails here and admire your patience and perseverance. Thank you for posting the pictures. It's not quite clear to me whether or not you have disconnected the shock absorber at the bottom yet. I'd try this as others have suggested before going after the swing arm itself. It will give you more room to work in and would be less invasive. Hang in there and good luck.
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:54 AM   #33
Tiz OP
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Malloy- thanks for the encouragement.

I disconnected the shock a while ago. No matter what angle I place the swingarm at, pushing the boot as carefully as possible into the space between the tranny and swingarm (not even trying to connect it to either) displaces the plastic ring and makes any further attempt at connecting the boot to the swingarm futile. I don't know if my bike is somehow different, or there's a specific way to get it in there and I'm unaware, or what.

I had just thought of folding the tranny end of the boot back into the boot and then trying to get it in there. I have no problem connecting the tranny end. But I think I'll pass on that. I'll get it to the dealer and suck it up on the cost to get this all straightened out.

The real problem is not being able to get the swingarm off. Had I been able to do that I'd be riding by now. There seems to be something wrong with the hex bolt on the left of the bike and I can't get it out. Rather than F* it up further I'll just have the dealer fix it and at the same time get new swingarm bearings while they're in there.

It sucks, and I'm upset about it quite a bit but I have other things that need attention and I need to move on.

--Kevin
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Old 08-10-2011, 01:41 PM   #34
JimVonBaden
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Kevin,

Your suggestion to tuck the tranny side into the inside and then place it in is a good one. IF you still have it all apart I would give that a go. There is no way you will harm it like that, and it might give you the room you need to get it installed.

Jim

PS Sorry this has been such a pain. If you were even remotely near me I would come help.

PPS Next time I have a driveshaft out I will remove and replace the swingarm boot and take photos, maybe video of it.
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:59 AM   #35
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Jim,

Tried that at least 10 times. Can't get it in there without knocking off the plastic ring.

I've assembled the bike as normal except for that boot, after the oil change in the FD. I'll ride it to the dealer on a dry day and let them deal with it. The bigger problem at the moment is the frozen left-side-pivot hex bolt in the swingarm.

Thanks.

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Old 08-18-2011, 05:48 AM   #36
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The fix......

So I took the bike to Max BMW in Brookfield. They had a job getting the swingarm bolt out but got it without requiring a new swingarm (my fear). Installed the new boot I already had, new bearings, new bolt and reassembled. $381 for the job. They also found leaking seals on the clutch slave shift potentiometer and output shaft so I had those replaced while they had it apart. Added $178 to the total but I don't have to think about those for a while.

I'm thinking it might be a good idea to back that swingarm bolt out and grease or never-sieze it every 12000 mi or so.

Thanks all.
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:41 AM   #37
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TIZ: I'm glad you got this thing fixed finally, although sorry it had to go to the dealer. Did you learn any tricks for installing the boot or driveshaft?
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:12 AM   #38
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Malloy -

Getting the driveshaft in was never a problem. A little fiddly but do-able. Having the swingarm close to level made it very easy and getting the shock bolt out was easy to facilitate that.

Jim's the expert but I can not imagine a way to get the front boot seated properly in the swingarm without removing the swingarm. At least I would never be able to do it. The tranny side of the boot was no problem - also just a little fiddly and care needed to avoid tearing it.

If I take the shaft out again I'll be very sure not to displace the swingarm side of the front boot. Also I'd be inclined to at least loosen and re-tighten the swingarm bolt every 12k miles. Steel in Aluminum in a wet environment is never a good thing over a long period of time.

My remaining thought is that Max BMW Brookfield seems like a really good place. Beemer parts are not cheap and like every dealer they charge labor by the book rate & time. But they were extremely easy to deal with and sharp as tacks. Even offered to find a used swingarm if I needed that. My experience with Suzuki was not like that. You get what you pay for.

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Old 10-08-2011, 07:04 PM   #39
onesaintsfan
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Boot clip sturdiness

I was planning on lubing front and rear splines on my 08 GSA. You guys have sure scared the hell out of me with this thread. I was planning on

A: Remove Rear Wheel

B: Drop Final Drive

C: VERY CAREFULLY cutting zip tie at Tranny end of Boot. ( bought 4 )

D: VERY CAREFULLY prying shaft off Tranny output shaft. ( protect case )

E: Lube the hell out of it with Honda Moly Lube

F: Use long flat screw driver to hold joint while guiding back up to tranny

F.1 Would prefer not to take shock loose, but will try if I get in a bind

G: Use Rubber Mallet to push shaft back onto tranny,

H: Install new Zip Tie,

I: Button up rear end.

Question....................how well seated is this boot at the swing arm end? What are my chances of knocking this thing off the swingarm and being in the same boat as TIZ?
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onesaintsfan screwed with this post 10-08-2011 at 07:10 PM
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:19 PM   #40
JimVonBaden
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On the GS you wont have to remove the shock bolt.

Removal of the shaft can be done from the FD end with a little prying of the shaft.

Installation is as you say. I have never had an issue with the boot between the swingarm and the trans, but I have heard it can be tricky. The shaft itself can take some patience.

Jim
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:47 PM   #41
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I had the final drive and the short piece of the drive shaft off of my 01 1150 GS. I was unable to dislodge the drive shaft from the tranny output shaft due to the retaining ring. I tried vise grips etc. I was afraid of damaging the inner splines. I then removed the swing arm and was able to pry off the drive shaft which required more force than expected. I tried to pass the front u-joint of the drive shaft through the swing arm and it will not go!. There is no way! No one will convince me that it will because I learned the hard way! The swing arm is not hard to get off and it gives you the opportunity to check the bearings.
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:48 PM   #42
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSBEERHUNTER View Post
I had the final drive and the short piece of the drive shaft off of my 01 1150 GS. I was unable to dislodge the drive shaft from the tranny output shaft due to the retaining ring. I tried vise grips etc. I was afraid of damaging the inner splines. I then removed the swing arm and was able to pry off the drive shaft which required more force than expected. I tried to pass the front u-joint of the drive shaft through the swing arm and it will not go!. There is no way! No one will convince me that it will because I learned the hard way! The swing arm is not hard to get off and it gives you the opportunity to check the bearings.
The R1200 is different from the R1100/1150. The shaft is one piece. You wont have the same issues.

Point taken about the swingarm bearings, though they rarely go bad.

Jim
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:00 PM   #43
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Thanks Jim

I am going to try it because the thought of those splines being dry is just eating on me. More than one person has told me just leave them the hell alone! But just cant help myself. I have to know in my mind they are done right !
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:46 AM   #44
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Take a look at this thread in about the middle of the first post and several thereafter:http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295173
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:07 AM   #45
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another rider seeking advice on this repair...

Hello, Folks,

I don't ride a GS, but my bike is in the same genus. This thread (and some others that it points to) has been very helpful. I'm the second owner of my bike (took ownership of it at 21K) and I've always had trouble keeping the rubber boot at the final drive in place. Also, closer inspection revealed both boots were cracked and deteriorating.



So I also set out to replace both cracked and leaking rubber boots, attend to some rust on the drive shaft, and grease the splines. Thought I would do it myself, save some money. On the R1200R, the swingarm has to come off to remove the drive shaft.

All went smoothly until I also tried to back out the pivot pin on the left side. About a 1/4 turn and it stopped cold. Over time I gingerly worked on it with some penetrating oil, making a mm of progress at a time until it backed out. Thought I was home free... but nope.





Here comes the part where I need some advice. My guess is that the pivot pin threads that stayed behind in the frame can be cleaned out in some way? I'm thinking a dental pick, and then maybe chasing the threads with a tap (assuming I can locate the correct size)? Wanted to ask you nice folks in case someone has been down this road before. I just got off the phone with my dealer's parts manager, a new pivot pin is on order.

Again, any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Oh, the swingarm bearings are shot; ordered a pair of those too.

Thank you much.
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