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Old 04-05-2012, 01:57 PM   #46
jsb223
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I've got a hole where the ABS pump used to be...



Quote:
Originally Posted by HackyMoto View Post
The hard part is where to put the coils there's no room to putum
Beemeerr coils=$$$
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:30 AM   #47
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We'll see. That's a Hirschmann logo on the connector, and the coil is made by Bremi. But that part is easy.
Next to the Hirschmann logo is another small circle. It looks like that might be another logo. (Not the date circle, the smaller circle.) Can you tell if it looks like the letters LK ?

There also looks to be a logo on the 'rubber' boot.
It appears the numbers on one side of the connector are 872 405. But there might be a smaller number before and after.
I can't read the numbers on the other side of the connector body, but it looks like it might be in AMP/Tyco part number format.






Enlarged for your viewing pleasure.










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Originally Posted by Tobz View Post
This pigtail connector looks like it may fit the bike harness - BMW P/N 83300413582. It's not cheep though. It must be available elsewhere.
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That looks to be it. 35 bucks it's kind of spendy



Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb223 View Post
I've got a hole where the ABS pump used to be...



Thanks guys





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Old 04-06-2012, 03:44 AM   #48
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Ignition module

I found this that I thought was interesting http://www.bmwmotorcycletech.info/ignition.htm. It mentions recommending removal of the ignition module located under the tank area, and re applying heat transfer paste every two years to prevent failure. Due to the module heating up.Any one know about this ?? And would it be relevant to newer GS's. By the way sorry for the reference to that site, bit of a chore to read through

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Old 04-06-2012, 04:05 AM   #49
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That relates to the ignition module for the carbureted Airhead motor. The oilhead has an integrated ECU that controls fuel and ignition.


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Old 04-06-2012, 04:13 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by HackyMoto View Post

Enlarged for your viewing pleasure.

[The 'repair' connector'] looks to be it. 35 bucks it's kind of spendy
That's a little easier to see!

Regarding the repair connector from BMW, it may be available from the automotive division.


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Old 05-03-2012, 02:52 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobz View Post
This pigtail connector looks like it may fit the bike harness - BMW P/N 83300413582. It's not cheep though. It must be available elsewhere.

Hey peeps,
Thanks to Tobz for the research on the connector and part number
I picked up a couple of pigtail connectors from the Dealer. It’s a perfect fit. No hacking up of the bikes wire harness for the coil swap All is still good
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:34 AM   #52
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Hy HackyMoto.
Just bought two coil sticks cause couldn't find, yet, convenient car coils. Only one was open, so have the other to join the spare parts.
Measured the resistance values in all three with a reliable analogic multimeter and found 1/50kOhms.
The car ones, I'll try to find spending a day opening damaged cars for recycling, must fit the primary and equal or have higher secondary for better spark.
Could you please confirm your readings?
Thanks for the "Colombo's egg".
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:34 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackyMoto View Post
If you get the wire loom at the auto recyclers there is a connector for a capacitor on the power side. The capacitor is mounted right on top of the engine. I picked this one up from the dealer. 12.00 bucks




Is there a need for one capacitor per coil?
Where and how it needs to be wired?

Thanks!
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:59 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legasea View Post
Hy HackyMoto.
Just bought two coil sticks cause couldn't find, yet, convenient car coils. Only one was open, so have the other to join the spare parts.
Measured the resistance values in all three with a reliable analogic multimeter and found 1/50kOhms.
The car ones, I'll try to find spending a day opening damaged cars for recycling, must fit the primary and equal or have higher secondary for better spark.
Could you please confirm your readings?
Thanks for the "Colombo's egg".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporttour View Post
Is there a need for one capacitor per coil?
Where and how it needs to be wired?

Thanks!

Hi all sorry for the delay for some reason am not getting notifications on postings.

Legasea , I have not actually measured the coils. I just went off of the spec. sheets for the coils.


Sporttour, Just one capacitor.
I have both coils positive power wired together (parallel). The capacitor is wired to the positive side on a lead off of the coils.
I did run it without the capacitor until I got one.
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:49 AM   #55
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Thanks Hacky.
A nice job has been done.
Asking a BMW techman, was told that in recent 1150's, the firing was sequencial. Being the case, the coils should keep the original configuration.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #56
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I never got a reply back from Hirschmann or Bremi about the coil connectors. I'll have to phone them when I get a chance.


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Old 06-04-2012, 11:36 PM   #57
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legasea.... it's the primary side that matters. replacement coil needs to be as high or higher resistance because that is what controls current through the ignition circuit. if primary resistance is too low it could allow too much current and damage the ignition box (Motronic).

the resistance of the secondary depends on 2 things... the wire gauge and the number of wraps. reading the resistance will not tell you the whole story. the coil is a transformer, the greater the number of wraps on the secondary, the higher the voltage on the output.... but, no free lunch, you will get lower current. in the long run, it should not matter as long as the coil is designed to run on a 12 volt system.

as for your mechanic.... " in recent 1150's, the firing was sequencial"... I'm guessing he means the dual spark bikes.... but this whole thread is about the dual spark stick coils being replaced

the long and short of it... the Motronic won't know the difference as long as you observe primary resistance limits of the coils.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:46 AM   #58
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Thanks Beezer for the detailed information.

- Of course that in magnetic circuits we don't know the whole measuring the resistance. But in similar conditions it helps allowing to compare similar coils. In this case, it will give enough information to search for adaptable car coils.

- Yes, the courrent on the primary should'n exceed the Motronic parameters and that's why it must be kept.
On the secondary, the courrent is not that important. The higher the voltage, the easier the spark, for better timing and ignition efficiency.

- Beeing a sequencial firing (and I didn't check it), keeping the coils (the car ones) separated and not in parallel (one fires for nothing), as Hacky choosed, shall save them and the Motronic (doubled courrent in the firing branch) from unnecessary work and stress.

The idea is only to make it better...

PS: Sorry for my concise speech. Translating and writing on the PC doesn't help much.

Regards.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:06 AM   #59
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Bump for my 05 GS's apparently failing stick coil just shy of 120k. $270 for a pair from max seems like a bit too much, but from looking at the research hackymoto and others have done it seems like between the ford coil p/u coil stick and the wiring harness they could be built for somewhere around $50 each?

So is anyone planning on selling these? Its a pretty common problem, and if there is a true plug in replacement it could be lucrative. The $35 wiring harness shown has bare leads on one end, are there plugs one could solder on to fit the ford stick coils? Is a capacitor needed on the 1200s?
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:49 AM   #60
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Laugh Coil mod good so far. Road Trip

HI all, I get to do the GS trophy in Moab.Ut this Sept.19-23 I'm taking the '04gs coil mod bike as the 06' had an untimely death. So far the bike has about 37,875 miles this trip will add 5000 miles give or take 2000 miles That should be a good test run for the Hackymoto coil Mod See you on the road



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