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Old 09-24-2012, 08:12 AM   #1
bobinaustin OP
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transmission and final drive oil changes?

so i need to do my first transmission and final drive oil change. i have read and seen pictorials on the final drive oil change and it looks suer simple for the 1150gs. even filing it seems much simpler than the 1200 because it appears as though i fill it through the hole on the top not through the rear that appears to be the technique for the 1200's? correct?

but i cant fund anything (pictorials) for transmission oil change. anyone have a link to a thread here or a video perhaps?

thanks for the help gang.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:59 AM   #2
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Bob, JVB will likely suddenly appear and provide details.

Me? Mine is a 2001 without a hole in the middle. Can't help...sorry.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:49 PM   #3
pschuyler
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Transmission and FInal drive oil changes

Good source for your bike.

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads...ce_1-20-02.pdf
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:31 PM   #4
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Easy as on the 1150

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Old 09-25-2012, 08:45 AM   #5
tagesk
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Note the order: Open the filler plug first. If it is stuck, it is a pain if you have drained the oil.

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Old 09-25-2012, 08:52 AM   #6
bobinaustin OP
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suggestions of oil for each the transmission and final drive? i know i can go to my dealership and buy bmw brnad whatever... i am just wondering if there is a good alternative?
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:11 AM   #7
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The dealer's oils are going to be very costly. I use any name brand 75w-140 synthetic GL-5 (from Wal-Mart or my locel auto parts store) to which I ad some moly. I ad this to both gear cases.

If your transmission and FD have not been changed in some time, you might consider a flush with ATF before filling with new oil.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:31 AM   #8
bobinaustin OP
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jvb must be on the road... he would normally have something to say on something like this! where are you jim?

thanks for the input and i will see what i can find for walmart oil. forgive my ignorance but what is moly? and i guess i should lower the final drive and lube the spines too huh?
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:30 AM   #9
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Cool

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Originally Posted by MIXR View Post
Where did this come from? Chiltons or similar?
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:40 AM   #10
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinaustin View Post
jvb must be on the road... he would normally have something to say on something like this! where are you jim?

thanks for the input and i will see what i can find for walmart oil. forgive my ignorance but what is moly? and i guess i should lower the final drive and lube the spines too huh?
Everyone has already said what I would say. Name brand synthetic. No need for dealer oils. Dino works too, but I prefer synthetics.

Jim
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:56 AM   #11
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I like my shift quality better with 75W90 in the transmission. Others like 75W140. I think it depends on your technique. Both will protect just fine.

Use only 75W90 in the final drive.

If you change your own tires, or at least remove the wheel, that is the best time to change the final drive.

Rod
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinaustin View Post
jvb must be on the road... he would normally have something to say on something like this! where are you jim?

thanks for the input and i will see what i can find for walmart oil. forgive my ignorance but what is moly? and i guess i should lower the final drive and lube the spines too huh?
Moly (short for Molybdenum disulfide, MoS2) is an EP (extreme pressure) lubricant used in greases and motor oils. It provides good friction reduction while adhering to steel parts like gears and shafts. It stays in place and does not shear. The reduced friction will lower transmission temperatures and improve shifting dramatically. It can provide protection at very high pressure and temperatures and also reduces the phenomena of fretting.

Wal-Mart will likely have Super-Tech brand gear oil which is their house brand lubricant...it is what I use. If you want a name brand, choose Shell, Mobil or any other recognized brand. Make sure your gear oil choice is API GL-5 rated. If you do ad moly, only ~5% by volume is needed. I use the 75w-140 synthetic GL-5 gear oil. Some say this is incorrect and in disagreement with BMW recommendations. My first FD oil change was with BMW brand 75w-140 gear oil. I hardly think the BMW boys would sell something and recommend you use it in their motorcycle if it voided the warranty (which it does not).

I have used this oil/moly mixture ever since 800 miles in my 2001 GS without issue.

As for greasing your splines, Honda Molypaste 60 is popular with the Paralever crowd (the 60 is the % moly in the grease). I use any moly fortified NLGI II lithium soaped grease for splines. The moly fortified greases are easily identified by their dark gray or black coloration (the moly is black).
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:31 PM   #13
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This is about the easiest service you can do on your GS. Get it warm, put it on the center stand, put a catch bottle under the drain with a small funnel for the tranny. I use an old window washer fluid bottle and small, long-necked funnel because it's tall and reaches right up under the drain plug, so no drips and mess running down the bike. You can drain the final drive right into a pan. When you fill the oil, put the bike on the side stand for easier access and pouring, again using the funnel.

Easy!

Doug
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:41 PM   #14
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I don't bother with a warm up. The junk you want to get rid of is already in the bottom of both gear cases. I like to leave it there where it will drain out first.

Also, I like a little flush with ATF just to provide a means for inspecting the drain oil for any debris.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:59 PM   #15
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From a GS Manual

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Originally Posted by pcwirepro View Post
Where did this come from? Chiltons or similar?
It's a small extract from a BMW GS Manual. Small divulgences such as that don't normally breach copyright. Posting the whole manual does! The limit used to be 10% of content. Not sure what it is these days, but that extract is way less than that. Also depends on what country you are in, who owns the copyright, and what the local regulators have to say. Never had a problem with information that is freely available in your bike handbooks or from a dealer or workshop.
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