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Old 05-04-2005, 01:22 PM   #31
creeper OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC
Handsome headwork there Creep...

But aren't you supposed to leave dychem and scribe marks all over it so it looks like you've been REALLY busy?
Thanks Chris... and the LC4 head looks pretty decent too huh?

Dychem all over everystuff would have looked real tricky "fab shop" wouldn't it?

The 2 step "hot and real hot" final clean-up pretty much removes anything that isn't metal or powdercoat. I did leave a little bright red assembly lube slathered here and there...
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
I did leave a little bright red assembly lube slathered here and there...
Ya mean like this?

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Old 05-04-2005, 01:55 PM   #33
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Fucktard... made me spit my coffee all over the keyboard. Glad it's not my keyboard.
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:57 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
Fucktard... made me spit my coffee all over the keyboard. Glad it's not my keyboard.
Oh, sorry....I thought you said "ass(embly) lube"...
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Oh, sorry....I thought you said "ass(embly) lube"...
Bright red KY... that would be freaky.
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC
Oh, sorry....I thought you said "ass(embly) lube"... For a minute there, I was getting excited
Fixed
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
Bright red KY... that would be freaky.
better than brown
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Old 05-04-2005, 03:00 PM   #38
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better than brown
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Old 05-04-2005, 03:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrider
Fixed
I'm assuming that Dirtrider would only get cranked up over "Montana Sheep Lube"....
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:20 PM   #40
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How'd you know?
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:41 AM   #41
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BAH... y'all are a randy bunch

hey creep,

if you have the gumption and time, throw up some pics and stuff about your tools and work. lots of us have no idea what goes into your craft and I for one would find it interesting.

no trade secrets or full DIY methods, just a sampler of sorts.
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:16 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
BAH... y'all are a randy bunch

hey creep,

if you have the gumption and time, throw up some pics and stuff about your tools and work. lots of us have no idea what goes into your craft and I for one would find it interesting.

no trade secrets or full DIY methods, just a sampler of sorts.
Interesting... that might take awhile though, so it will have to wait till the weekend.

Short version is...
I make the port surfaces "compliant" with the direction of air flow, blend and smooth-blend and smooth. This takes 4 to 6 hours of cutting and sanding with a 20K rpm hand-held porting head, depending on the flaws I find.
I remove the obvious impediments (or at least obvious to me) while making every attempt to remove as little material as possible... this is done in an effort to keep port air velocity high for a good useable broad torque curve.

Before all this, I inspect the head and guides for serviceability and correct any dimensional issues.
Sometimes, a head can need so much work that it is more cost effective to replace the casting with a new or low mile used replacement.

I don't try to achieve a mirror finish... it is a waste of my time and the customers money. A 320-400 grit finish is more than adequate for the air to proceed happily along its desired path.

This is followed with a 3 or 4 angle valve seat re-cutting with particular attention paid to and seat widths and location. I use hand-turned carbide cutters... one angle at a time.
Narrow and wide seats both have advantages and disadvantages... the trick is to compromise to best advantage for intended usage. A head that you want to last a few years will be cut differently from one used in competition.
I also consider stem protrusion while cutting seats, as this has a bearing on total available travel and spring pressure.

Spring pressure is based on peak RPM and valve weight. Pressure must be sufficient to control valve movements up to and including red line, but not much more than that (unless it's a competition engine, then my rule of thumb is 25% in excess of red line) as excessive pressure will wear out valve train components prematurely.

Final measurements, minor touch ups and final assembly. Oh, and 3 to 4 cleaning stages.

That's it in a nut shell... thanks for asking.
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Old 05-26-2005, 08:58 PM   #43
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I never thought I'd do this but I just ordered the LC4 racing cam (951170). Hopefully there's still one laying around somewhere. I read the manual pages about the removal and install of the cam and it's less complicated than I expected, so I'm going to jump in. Ordered bearings, circlips, o-ring, washers too.

Keep in mind my bike is 1999. Will I be somewhat underwhelmed with the improvement, providing 951170 still exists, in comparison to a hi-flow equipped motor?

Oh.. I forgot to ask. The ktm part # for three-bond sealant was insanely priced. What's a good sealant for the valve cover and water pump?
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:35 PM   #44
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I don't know what the numbers are for that cam, but chances are it is upper mid-range to redline oriented.
Without doing anything else, you probably won't see too dramatic of an improvement.
Everything has to match the intended application, from the airbox to the tail pipe to get the most from a cam.
Performance cams, especially "bolt-in" cams, are no "free lunch"... if you gain a few HP on top, you may loose 6 ft. lbs. of torque in the midrange to get it. Because the intake valve closes later to improve the charge volume at high RPM, the corrected compression is reduced so... bye bye low end and mid range.
You may have to install a higher compression piston to get it back.

What the hell, I guess we'll find out, huh?

I have not seen a pre ’03 head to compare it to a High Flow, so I can’t answer that question. The only obvious things are the size of the exhaust valves, along with the port and combustion chamber changes to accommodate them.

Yamabond 4 is probably going to be what you want, or Three-bond brand equivalent.

Best of good luck with this one,
Creep
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:39 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
Performance cams, especially "bolt-in" cams, are no "free lunch"... if you gain a few HP on top, you may loose 6 ft. lbs. of torque in the midrange to get it. Because the intake valve closes later to improve the charge volume at high RPM, the corrected compression is reduced so... bye bye low end and mid range.
You may have to install a higher compression piston to get it back.

What the hell, I guess we'll find out, huh?
Hopefully. I'm still a bit worried that this part may be unavailable, and I don't want to get any of the more aggressive cams. I think I'm ok with low end loss. It's quite the peppy down there. Hopefully I won't notice a decrease in mid range as that's kinda what I want. Well, wait a min, is 5-6k mid range?

I want more higher speed roll-on power if I can get it. That's really a blast!

I checked my odo and it's approaching 10k. I figure it's now or never if I'm going to do something like this.
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