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Old 04-15-2012, 08:10 PM   #1
Kegler OP
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External Fuel Filter Question R1100GS

I've read several posts on relocating the internal fuel filter to an external location. With that said, I have a question. I have seen a couple of references to using 10 inches of fuel submersible fuel injection line to replace the original "U" shaped line ($32) and the internal fuel filter. They describe making a smooth bend so as to not kink the line. This makes sense to me, but I wonder if there is a down side to this setup? I figure that my internal fuel line may be original equipment and will need to be replaced. By the time I buy the "U" shaped line from BMW ($32) and a foot of fuel submersible fuel injection line ($25) I'll have nearly $60 in fuel line. If figure I can cut that by more than half by using the 10 inch loop. Any wisdom on this subject will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:41 PM   #2
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dealer prices are crazy for those pieces

i picked up the submersible hose at napa for $14 the other day -- but i get a little discount thru my part time job. it looks like it would work just fine in a "u" shape. try it. just save the oem piece in case.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:31 AM   #3
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U- beemer bone has an alternative. Corugated submersible rated available from some auto parts in Help corner A-Zone. Not sure that you can make the Gates submersible tight enough radius turn. Watch interference from float after installed in tank.

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Old 07-17-2012, 03:57 PM   #4
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I am finally going through my tank internals, I have found this stainless U tube, wondering if it could be made to function in place of the $40 BMW rubber U hose that doesnt hold up well?


http://www.beveragefactory.com/draft...l_u_bend.shtml

maybe this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Bend-Draft-Bee.../dp/B0053GA7WW

http://www.kegworks.com/u-bend-for-d..._icmp=nextopia






Or could I use the submersible line and make a gentle loop to replace the factory U, and externalize the filter?

I do appreciate your thoughts.
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:56 AM   #5
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http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW...fp-hosekit.htm

Moved filter outside under the right cover. I used one of these hoses on my 1150 in tank. From pump to the outlet pipe. Replacing the U. Nylon coragated rated 30R10. Also replaced the short pump to pipe piece with the section I cut off. Didn't use the second one, now have a spare. Comes with the clamps! $15.00 !!!.

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Old 07-18-2012, 06:04 AM   #6
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Thanks Steve!

I had read references to that corrugated hose, but had been unable to find it on the website ( actually I think I was searching beemer boneyard for it, no wonder!)
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:59 PM   #7
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i used a 5/16th steel fuel line to make my loop and lessen the chance of an internal leak
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:51 PM   #8
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When I did mine (95 gs) I don't remember doing anything special in there other than removing the filter? then I used a universal filter on the outside of the tank. Some things get over engineered. last I heard it had couple hundred thousand miles on this setup.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:31 AM   #9
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the rubber U in my tank ( factory part) is cracked and splitting.

so id rather replace it with something else.

although, I guess I could just go back with stock parts and enjoy another 90K miles too...
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:09 AM   #10
roger 04 rt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
the rubber U in my tank ( factory part) is cracked and splitting.

so id rather replace it with something else.

although, I guess I could just go back with stock parts and enjoy another 90K miles too...
I'm 100 miles off the beaten path at the moment so I just put the BMW parts back in and I'll check it again in a year.

I'm building myself a setup that will measure pressure and volume so that I'll be able to see leaking well ahead of failure. But at the same time I'll check it everytime I replace the filter.

These hoses can leak a lot of fuel back into the tank for a long time ... and the bike will still run fine ... until it doesn't, as I found out recently.

I could argue that leaving the filter in the tank, so that you go in and check things every few years, is a better idea than moving it outside. ;)
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:24 AM   #11
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I am fine with that idea too, Roger.

inside, outside, I dont really care.

Im not even sure I would look every year, im thinking every 2 or 3 years..

I just hate to pay $40 for a piece of hose that I know for certain will fail, but I guess if it lasts another 90K miles its not an issue.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
I just hate to pay $40 for a piece of hose that I know for certain will fail, but I guess if it lasts another 90K miles its not an issue.
gotta wonder if ethanol helps that along, hmmm...
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:56 PM   #13
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alright, so..

I called the local bmw shop, they said to check those rubber hoses every 24K miles or 2 years since the fuel has ethanol in it.

that made my mind up NOT to use the rubber U hose. ( which is $32)

I bought a tube bender for $3, and 12" of 5/16 steel brake line.

trying to bend a 180 broke the bender.


so I bought a $9 bender, and 40" of steel 5/16 line for $6 and have since bent several replacement U shapes.
they look hideous, but they are not kinked any more than the factory bends thru the fuel pump mounting plate.

Ive got 1' of the sae 30r10 submersible hose coming in the morning from the local napa for $19.69

so, over all, slightly cheaper than the OEM parts, but hopefully, the next time i am in the tank to check/replace, I only need a fraction of that $20 per foot submersible hose.

oh yeah, found a fuel strainer ( sock) to fit the oem pump for $7 at Oreillys auto parts.

part numbers

precision fuel pumps s13002 ( strainer/sock)

fuel filter

Wix 33032 $4.29

submersible fuel hose from Napa auto parts

NBH H209

$19.69 per foot

Oreilly auto also has fuel injection line clamps, a mixed size blister pack for $6.99
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:31 PM   #14
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m-f--f: Good find on the pre-formed ss U. Never could find one. The Gates 30r10 is amazing stuff, worth the money, should last the life of the mc.

The good news is that once the tank service is completed correctly, most likely be good to go for 5 years or more. .

tips: Use hi-grade nylon zip ties to secure the internal small diam lines to the barbs. Do not bend the float arm! Tension on the slider is adjusted by tweaking the bottom bracket on the plate just a hair. Aftermarket Viton fuel resistant big o-ring from seal shop (optional but nice) #348. Pump Plate is ever-so gently snugged to tank using nut driver between index finger and thumb. Install it clean and dry. Do not over-tighten pump plate! Fill with one gallon of fuel then set tank on floor for several hours. If leaking, check the electrical bulkhead fittings carefully or o-ring is out of groove.

Before installing filter or by pass on plate pop off the float to service the the fuel level sender. The nylon holder for the board will be brittle. If you snap the end-stop just tie wrap a short piece of hose to plate for make-shift end stop. All bars read on my gauge and very accurate.

Issue with internal filter:
On the road and you get bad fuel... Aso requires replacing every 24 months, 24k miles or sooner. They plug and take out pump, starve engine, cause over-heating.

Good external filter:
Wix 10 micron ( p/n posted the number somewhere back). Has inlet/outlet on same side. Comes with removeable braket, all ss construction. f.i. rated. Good for a least 50k miles (never plugged one), can't crap out fuel pump like oem. Suggest not using the IBMW rider posted Fram - not f.i. rated, not fine filtering, low capacity. Install external filters safely, otherwise use stock internal.

Locating external filter:
1100gs: Have used the included clamp w/Wix for solid clean install on the gearbox abs bolt hole.\
1150gs: Removed the horn, stuffed Wix inside the front frame hollow, re-intall horn. Eliminates the need for line reversal at fuel distributor. Front frame mount might work on 1100 as well.

Other loc: under rear porter has safety advantage but requires long hose runs. Installing under the rs cover works but only with under-sized crap Fram carb style filter. You'll end up with plugged or dirty injectors.

++Whatever external plumbing is done make absolutely sure no rubbing, interference or you can have a fire or damaged paint. Split a section of oversize hose to shield spots where necessary. Avoid tight radius bends. Avoid locating filter or hoses where they can soak engine heat (causes pver-lean from hot fuel when re-starting). Not a fan of loc. external filter locating near cyl fins.

Strip down the pump plate clean all the ports w/pipe cleaner. Check the electrical bulkheads for signs of seepage. Early models had only one bulkhead fitting. These are best replaced with newer pump plate as the wire feeds were inadequate. note: The larger elec fitting of the later type seals w/o-ring which can fail. Unfortunately, to replace this o-ring you would have to de-solder wires and find a new crimp ring. Don't know anybody who has sourced the ring.

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Old 07-26-2012, 09:00 PM   #15
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Aftermarket Viton fuel resistant big o-ring from seal shop (optional but nice). #347 or 348 I think.
Its a 348
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