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Old 08-25-2011, 03:17 PM   #1
viola-tor OP
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Oh dear! (Ignition wire prob)

So I had to replace the key/ignition column tamper-proof bolts (they rattled out), and after I put it back together the bike was cutting out/killing. Traced it to handlebar position, then traced that to the wires coming out of the bottom of the ignition column. I was able to ride home, but can't turn the wheel very far or I kill the whole system.

Sure enough, one of the wires has become cut somehow:



The green/black one:



There are three or four copper wires hanging on, but most have been sliced.

No problem, right? I borrow a soldering iron from the neighbor and go at it. Should take five minutes, right?

Good to go, RIGHT????




Wrong... Turn the key: Nada, nuttin'. The bike was off when I was doing this, and I checked the fuses, then RE-did the soldering. Again nothing, no click, no dash, no nothing.

So what on earth have I done and how do I undo it? I'm supposed to leave for a multi-day ride tomorrow...
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:22 PM   #2
AdvGa
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Did you check the Main Fuse at the Starter Relay?


This probably would not affect the Aux Starter Relay behind the Dash?
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
Did you check the Main Fuse at the Starter Relay?


This probably would not affect the Aux Starter Relay behind the Dash?
Is that in the glove box? I checked all the fuses in there, with special attention to "Ignition / Fuel Pump" and "Power Relay." They both are fine. Are there bigger, badder fuses behind the headlight I don't know about?
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:32 PM   #4
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I know its a stupid question, but: red kill switch is in run position, right?
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
I know its a stupid question, but: red kill switch?

No, not stupid at all! We've all been there... But yes, I triple checked it, and bike in neutral (but even so the dash should boot up even in gear).
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:36 PM   #6
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Here is the Link to the Pic at the Main Sterter Relay:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=48

There should be 2, but One should be a Spare.
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:37 PM   #7
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Then I would check the 30amps fuse once again, just to be sure.
If it's okay, maybe you should look inside the ign. switch, maybe something got loose in there..

Also this looks identical to your problem:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327430

edit: this 30amps fuse is on the right side, beside of the battery, accessible if you fold down the sumpguard.

This is what you should be looking for:



edit2: its under this:



EDIT3: Pictures are from the H.O.W. :)
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Sumi screwed with this post 08-25-2011 at 04:02 PM
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
Then I would check the 30amps fuse once again, just to be sure.
If it's okay, maybe you should look inside the ign. switch, maybe something got loose in there..

Also this looks identical to your problem:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327430

edit: this 30amps fuse is on the right side, beside of the battery, accessible if you fold down the sumpguard.

This is what you should be looking for:



edit2: its under this:


Thank you for the pictures and everything! Now I know, this is news to me! I've now checked the main fuse, it is still good.

Thank you also for this link, I'll put it in here for the discussion:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mapmaker View Post
Hey Brent, Steve, everyone thanks. KTM Lancaster just called its running again. It was the ignition switch itself that failed internally. $139.00 the warrantee claim is in we shall see. Plus $90 bucks to get it towed to a friends house in Concord, plus $260 for the u-haul to get it from Concord to Lancaster. Ace in Concord could have helped but they couldnít store it or even see it for a week or more. Plus I need it for work, 80 miles a day to work in the truck was taking 3 hours on I-10.

In the parking lot in Concord I field stripped the switch down to where the wires are soldered onto the bottom of the switch, all good. The rest of the switch looked pretty well connected to the housing cylinder. There were two small white press tabs but it looked like you would destroy the rest of the unit prying it out. Thatís were I stopped and just spliced the chaffed external ignition wire and taped it. Nothing, thatís when I started paying for trucks.

So, I rode cross country a couple times, I went from southern Wyoming to Canada through Montana on dirt roads. Sorry all on GSís. I ride a lot, Iíve broke down, I have never been stranded, and in Concord CA of all places. Thinking about it if I were in the Red Desert in Wyoming, I would have had to basically hot wire the bike as the only fix. Doable I guess. Of course I donít generally travel with the detailed electric schematic so there would have been some guess work.

One frayed wire coming directly out of the ignition switch, dash lights flicker for about 10-15 seconds as I clutch in as the bike dies in the parking lot in Concord CA. No blown fuses, dead in the water. Itís a 07 990, it is 8 months old, has 15,000 miles (I ride a lot). The only thing I can think of is when the dash started flickering I was coasting and moving the handlebars, just kind of steering to stop. I could tell the flicker was when the bar moved, perhaps if I turned off the key immediately it would have saved the switch. Bottom line is a wire short shouldnít damage the ignition switch. And after all the trucks the new steering damper will have to wait a few more months.

Again thanks. And IBJim, I checked both 30 amp fuses thinking they were both live.

Oh man, I certainly hope this isn't my problem... Opinions? Is there a way to test the ignition switch?

At least it's happening in the yard instead of the North Rim...
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:14 PM   #9
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Then check battery terminals, wiggle (is that the correct word?) the cables going around the steering head (when ignition is on), and see if power comes back?

I've also seen somebody who had a soldering came loose in the ign. switch, and it's not a big job to pull it apart, and you can see if anything got loose inside (if you don't want to pull it apart, maybe it's enought to wiggle the cables, to see if there is a contact problem inside (while key is in run position).

That's all of my ideas:)
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:14 PM   #10
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You might want to read this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=34

I had the same problem as yours!
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:18 PM   #11
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Here is the fix: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=69 (if you have the same problem as I had)
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:24 PM   #12
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Hey V, do you have a volt meter or test light. I would check to see if you have power up to the cut. If so than it just may be your solder job. Then I'm sure you know what to do then...
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
Then check battery terminals, wiggle (is that the correct word?) the cables going around the steering head (when ignition is on), and see if power comes back?

I've also seen somebody who had a soldering came loose in the ign. switch, and it's not a big job to pull it apart, and you can see if anything got loose inside (if you don't want to pull it apart, maybe it's enought to wiggle the cables, to see if there is a contact problem inside (while key is in run position).

That's all of my ideas:)
I've taken it down to here:



I can't figure how to open the bottom where the wires enter. There's a few press tabs, but they don't appear to be user serviceable (like break the thing getting it open). The jiggle method worked BEFORE I attempted the solder, but after: not a glimmer of juice (obviously I was hoping for the opposite!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by aurel View Post
You might want to read this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=34

I had the same problem as yours!
The collective wisdom of this place is amazing! Aurel channeling CP and Pyndon to viola-tor... Amazing. No problem is a new one with all the gnarly adventurers around here. If it can be broken we'll find a way!

My fuse box checks out, dirty, but everything there. I will keep and eye on it!






Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty View Post
Hey V, do you have a volt meter or test light. I would check to see if you have power up to the cut. If so than it just may be your solder job. Then I'm sure you know what to do then...
Okay, I admit I'm pretty much a total idiot at electrics. So to do a test light I put one wire to the offending ignition wire (just south of the cut) and ground the other and see if it lights up?
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:44 PM   #14
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This link may help you in more detail:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=18


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472908
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:18 PM   #15
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It's openable without making any damage, would be easier with 3 or 4 hands though (have to push the press tabs with a screwdriver for example, while trying to pull the whole thing apart).. I've did it on my 640, which has the same ign. as I believe. It's not easy, but doable :) However try not to make a hole on your hand during the process:)

BTW If I were you, I'd give the starter relay + connections a good cleaning:) - and with a continuity tester it would by easy to check whether you have the same problem as Aurel had.
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