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Old 08-25-2011, 08:52 PM   #16
viola-tor OP
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Didn't look too bad once I got inside (seems like a great way to impale one's own hand, opening that damn thing!), but gave it a cleaning with Q-tips and alcohol.



Looks pretty good as far as I can tell.






These connections are all pretty bomber, nice and solid (I assume the blank/hollow one is supposed to be that way? No loose wires going in...)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=16712695


Snap it all together, turn the key... DOH! Still nuthin'.

Cleaned the main fuse box as suggested, all looks good there.

Got a hold of a multi-meter, did a continuity test on both sides of the soldering, it reads "0.00" (which is what you want, right?). Is the green/black wire to the neutral position sensor (neutral switch) if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly? WHERE IS THE OTHER END OF THIS WIRE???

I'm running out of bullets... Going to darkness wrench mode!

viola-tor screwed with this post 08-25-2011 at 09:00 PM
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:07 PM   #17
AdvGa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
...Is the green/black wire to the neutral position sensor (neutral switch) if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly? WHERE IS THE OTHER END OF THIS WIRE???
I think so...I bypassed mine and here's the process:

Ground the green-black wire at the connector for the gear selector switch (#2 in the photo below). Down in front of the rotor cover on the left side of the engine). This will allow the ECU to provide ignition to the coils no matter what gear you are in, whether the kickstand is up or down, and clutch in or out. This will eliminate any possibility of one or more of the "safety" devices malfunctioning and killing the ignition. It will also allow the starter to work anytime the button is pushed And your green neutral light will stay on always. But, as I said this is not for "casual" use, but rather for emergency situations only. Like as a quick and easy way to bypass a failed safety device when one craps out in the boonies and you just wanna get home.
BTW, arrow #3 in the photo points to the sidestand switch connector where ABYSS's permanent fix is to be made.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/wotf/wotf.html

Is your Battery at Full Charge? Baffling why this is happening to you....but hope this helps.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:20 PM   #18
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Did you turn the switch on when you tested the wires.

Dang, I guess if it was me i would cut out the solder and just splice in a bit of new wire and give it a quick test before soldering or heat shrinking. I think your digging in deeper than you need to. There is sort of an art to correctly soldering a joint.

Start with the obvious.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
I think so...I bypassed mine and here's the process:

Ground the green-black wire at the connector for the gear selector switch (#2 in the photo below). Down in front of the rotor cover on the left side of the engine). This will allow the ECU to provide ignition to the coils no matter what gear you are in, whether the kickstand is up or down, and clutch in or out. This will eliminate any possibility of one or more of the "safety" devices malfunctioning and killing the ignition. It will also allow the starter to work anytime the button is pushed And your green neutral light will stay on always. But, as I said this is not for "casual" use, but rather for emergency situations only. Like as a quick and easy way to bypass a failed safety device when one craps out in the boonies and you just wanna get home.
BTW, arrow #3 in the photo points to the sidestand switch connector where ABYSS's permanent fix is to be made.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/wotf/wotf.html

Is your Battery at Full Charge? Baffling why this is happening to you....but hope this helps.
This is good. I've already disabled the sidestand switch, problem is I can't get the connector to release, it's too tight in there, I'll have to pull the bars, tanks, etc. Maybe try in the morning. Batt. has a charge, not sure if it's full, but I rode it for 30 miles or so this morning with no problems. Multi-meter test at main fuse read 15.--, so that sounds right, right?

Question: As it says this ground is "not for casual use" and only to get you home to fix it right... What would fixing it "right" be in this instance? Replace any faulty wiring? That pretty much means dissasemble the bike...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty View Post
Did you turn the switch on when you tested the wires.

Dang, I guess if it was me i would cut out the solder and just splice in a bit of new wire and give it a quick test before soldering or heat shrinking. I think your digging in deeper than you need to. There is sort of an art to correctly soldering a joint.

Start with the obvious.
Yes, ignition switch was on when testing. I'm getting continuity reading from both sides of the soldering/splice.

Start with the obvious, you say? I'm all ears... Is there something I'm missing? I'd LOVE for this thing to roar to life any minute!

Here's where we leave it tonight after 10 hours:



Headlamp isn't cutting it, try some more tomorrow.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty View Post
Did you turn the switch on when you tested the wires.

Dang, I guess if it was me i would cut out the solder and just splice in a bit of new wire and give it a quick test before soldering or heat shrinking. I think your digging in deeper than you need to. There is sort of an art to correctly soldering a joint.

Start with the obvious.
I had pretty much the same (initial) problem earlier on this year. One of the wires at the bottom of the ignition barrel was broke, I did a temporary fix as I was out camping/riding with a couple of spade connectors. Try cutting and doing the same with the soldered wire.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
...
Question: As it says this ground is "not for casual use" and only to get you home to fix it right...

What would fixing it "right" be in this instance? Replace any faulty wiring? That pretty much means dissasemble the bike...
.
Had mine disabled for months with No issue... and will start while I am rolling in gear when the need arises.

Good Luck with you fix tomorrow.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:57 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
Had mine disabled for months with No issue... and will start while I am rolling in gear when the need arises.

Good Luck with you fix tomorrow.

Sounds good. First I want to get that connector off and TEST the damn thing. It appears that the solder job is working, but that's not ruling out a kink farther down the line. That would be a fix I could maybe manage tomorrow, maybe... I might be borrowing a bike for this ride, the new day will tell.

Thanks for all the help! Viva Orange Crush!
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:10 PM   #23
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Best of luck figuring this out. Mine had the ignition switch go out a couple months ago. I zip tied the wires the way you did for the screws to get it to shop and they replaced it all under warenty. Was very glad I did not have to dig into it. Mine is a 2010 model.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:50 PM   #24
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I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. Bike was running fine, I stopped for a bit then turned the ignition key and nada. After fumbling around a bit I found that the 4 wire connector to the starter relay block was loose.



Once I removed it, blew it out and reseated all was good.

It's worth a shot if you've not done so already.
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:05 AM   #25
Dusty
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Quote:
Start with the obvious, you say? I'm all ears... Is there something I'm missing? I'd LOVE for this thing to roar to life any minute!
I guess to my simple mind the bike did run before you put solder on that break, and now you got nuttin, so that is were i would concentrate my efforts and be 100% sure i had that repaired the best i possibly could before i tore anything else apart.

Good luck.
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:37 AM   #26
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Here's a link to some other possible bad connections up from the Relay:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...83&postcount=1
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Old 08-26-2011, 03:42 AM   #27
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If in doubt with the soldering, pull the connector at the other side, and check the continuity between the pins in that connector and the connections in the ignswitch.
If you measure the volts across the battery terminals with the multimeter, what does it say?

Also you can have a look at this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...29&postcount=8

Also some smarter guy would tell it how it works - because I'm not sure, but I _think_ that if you hotwire the bike in the glovebox (what cp mentions in the above link), you can rule out the ignition switch - Though I don't know if it works for the 990 as well, and I think it's quite easy to toast the harness (maybe even the ecu) if you do something wrong there? - If everything else fails this could also be an option, but I'd leave it for the end...

By the way.. What happens if you push the starter button? nothing?
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:21 AM   #28
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I had everything go off the other day on the 'panther trail' CO at about 1730hrs, after a moment of 'ohh shit!!',I set about looking for the problem. Fuses OK,main fuse plus spare,OK. Why me?? Please let it be simple was my thoughts,quick look at ignition wires,again look OK. Decided to check the battery visually,broken earth wire down there. Doubt this is your problem but I hope you find it soon.
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Old 08-27-2011, 12:52 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
So I had to replace the key/ignition column tamper-proof bolts (they rattled out), and after I put it back together the bike was cutting out/killing. Traced it to handlebar position, then traced that to the wires coming out of the bottom of the ignition column. I was able to ride home, but can't turn the wheel very far or I kill the whole system.

Sure enough, one of the wires has become cut somehow:



The green/black one:



There are three or four copper wires hanging on, but most have been sliced.

No problem, right? I borrow a soldering iron from the neighbor and go at it. Should take five minutes, right?

Good to go, RIGHT????




Wrong... Turn the key: Nada, nuttin'. The bike was off when I was doing this, and I checked the fuses, then RE-did the soldering. Again nothing, no click, no dash, no nothing.

So what on earth have I done and how do I undo it? I'm supposed to leave for a multi-day ride tomorrow...
So one wire was cut and and you repaired it.
But howabout the other wires?,Maybe another wire broke internally during the repair.
Check those to be sure.
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Old 08-27-2011, 01:45 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post


The green/black one:

The insulation is damaged but it doesn't look like the copper wiring is broken. So good that you found this and fixing this, but this might not be the cause of the problem. Maybe the cause is somewhere completely else.


Quote:
That soldering job does not look very clean at all. Try redoing it better and insulate it with long enough heat shrink tubing.

Good luck finding your problem. Try to work in a logical order and try to measure everything, starting from the battery and work your way up.
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