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Old 08-25-2011, 05:55 PM   #1
kellymac530 OP
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: so. cal.
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1986 r80 gs build

So I am really excited!!! Like many here im sure, I have loved the old airhead BMWs for a long time and especially the GS models. To my surprise I ran into a crazy cool deal on a 1986 R80 G/S. It is not the Paris-Dakar model, but it did come with the 8.9 gal Dakar tank as well as the stock tank and both the full length seat and the Dakar model short seat with rear rack.

It is respectably clean but not currently running. The original owner {and I do mean original, I will be only the second owner} only put 38k miles on it and then fell over in some soft dirt and it wouldn't restart, that was 7 years ago. Since then the owner has been ill and recently passed.

It sat out side in Parker Az. area for a long time and so much of the plastic parts are dried out or rotted. The half seat/rack was removed the day he bought it as well as the small tank and stored in his garage and are in PERFECT condition like new. The long seat and Dakar tank are more sun beaten. The seat cover is dry and splitting and the exposed padding is dried out and kinda hard. The paint and badges on the Dakar tank are faded and chalky and "if" it was an orginal tank that was signed by Gaston Rahnier that is long faded out and I cannot see it. It has the oem bmw hard panniers and mounting brakets all in tact, but the plastic of the pannier boxes are all dried and a few cracks. Is just the plastic part available?

I will try to post up some pics, but I suck at that. The bike is the White with the 2 tone blue stripes and the orangie/redish seat and a black back fender. The front fender is White, but the paint is flaking on it and it is black underneath it.

Is that stock? or did someone replace the front fender with a black one and paint it?

I think I already found out why it would not restart. Someone had worked on the carbs at some point and the gasket on the choke cover was folded in and not sealed so there was a bunch of silty podery dirt in there and in the slide needle area.
I ordered a set of Bing 32mm carb rebuild kits off ebay for $36.00 usd and they will be here this week. The family friend that was selling it that I bought it from, said he thinks there is an ignition switch problem as well, but I will check it out.

The next thing I know I will need is a front brake mastercylinder rebuild kit and fluid cup. It was all empty and dried out and sun cracked and the rubber bladder under the cover is literally melted into the cup. I will also need a front caliper rebuild kit.

Does anyone have a line on those parts? And are there any other models that will cross over on the fluid tank?

So anyway, on top of my R1100RT I now own another BMW and I am really stoked about that. The wife is not happy that there are now 5 bikes in "HER" garage.... just a man taking back what is rightfully HIS...

Now the hard part....I am kinda thinking about making it a Dakar race bike replica. Not the full 2 shock, swing arm modded, big gussets, HPN replica. Just add a front end off of a better bike {better as in a bit newer and more modern adjustable forks, front wheel, brakes}, strip off unneccesary stuff, custom small headlight mask and windshield, and a cool pain job {not marlboro or penthouse, but maybe HPN/ELF}, and a cool set of custom made 2 into 2 down pipes.

OR should I just rejuvenate it and ride it stock?

What do you guys think? Stock or Trick?

Any parts info you guys have will be appreciated.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:11 PM   #2
One Less Harley
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You can get all the parts you need from BMW, I get most of my stuff from Max BMW, Chicago BMW for a discount, but only if not in a rush. If your making a big order it would be worth it to order from Motobins in the UK. Even w/ the terrible exchange rate you'll come out cheaper than ordering in the US.

If going the carbs, you might as well replace the needles and respective jets. I bet your fork seals are shot too. If you can afford it make a list of everything it needs and do a big order from Motobins.

I'd take the time to cean the wiring harness terminals and add dielectric grease to the ends. You'll be hard pressed to find the plastic bags, just get Happy Trails bags, they are better anyway.

There are many links to R80 rebuilds, there is my link below

and (Here)

Great bikes.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:31 PM   #3
Mane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post

OR should I just rejuvenate it and ride it stock?

What do you guys think? Stock or Trick?
Rejuvenate it and ride it stock.

Regards,
Mane
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:47 PM   #4
Bigger Al
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I tell all new Airhead owners the same thing: Ride it in stock condition for a while and see what you might want to change. Doing that will get you some basic Airhead wrench time, and you'll get to know the bike pretty well. There's a ton of really good minds in this forum, and you can bet that most any wild thing that you want to do to the bike in the future has been tried by one of them.

Try a photo hosting site for your pics. The owner of this forum is also the owner of SmugMug, and it's a great way to get your images on here.
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:55 PM   #5
SpeedyG942
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Thumb

Trick it!
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:15 PM   #6
SOLO LOBO
airhead or nothing
 
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Join the G/S registry, and hang with the cool kids...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...light=registry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:43 AM   #7
Wirespokes
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Welcome Kelly!

My vote is to leave it stock. It's going to be a project just getting it running and dependable. Ride it, fix it and get to know it first.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:07 AM   #8
Garthe
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Sent you a PM regarding posting pictures for you.

My 2 cents, stock and running well...then ride it for a while...

Then, figure out what to do.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:44 AM   #9
batoutoflahonda
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I've had mine for 4 years now and am doing a rolling rebuild. Every year I plan some item to put my attention to. No need to be in a hurry. Plus by riding it, you'll get an idea of which way you want to go with it. Really, you may ride it a few thousand miles go "this thing sucks". I did a fly and buy with a one way ticket across the country for my G/S (I'd been pining for one for years). On the test ride I was like "this is really horrible". But like that stray dog.....

With the exception of the rear shock, I don't throw more than $500/year at it in upgrades.If you watch this forum long enough, you'll see what problems come up most and you'll know what could use some attention when the time comes.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:53 PM   #10
squish
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Where in So Cal are you?

My suggestion like others in this thread.

Get the bike running, live with it for while then build the replica bike if you still think you want one.

Sounds like you have a great find.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:44 PM   #11
kellymac530 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish View Post
Where in So Cal are you?

My suggestion like others in this thread.

Get the bike running, live with it for while then build the replica bike if you still think you want one.

Sounds like you have a great find.
Im in lake elsinore, or as we say here "Lake smellsomemore"
Squish-"Where the ghetto meets the sea"- must be Chula Vista, Imperial beach, or possibly Venice?

For everyone, Thanks for the input. I guess I was not clear in my original post though. I definately plan on getting it running, just got my carb rebuild kit in today, It is in very good shape and close to running as it sits. I believe a wiring cleanup and carb overhaul and she will fire up, Im sure of it.

After getting it running I plan on putting a few miles on it and just seeing what I think of it. BUT, if I like it like I think I will, I am seriously thinking of doing a Dakar race bike replica just because I LOVE them.

Copy of this, minus the cigarette add though since I hate smoking!

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...os&FORM=IDFRIR

I am not a total newb to bikes or beemers. I own 5 bikes right now including an R1100RT and have owned at least 25 bikes in my life. I do really appreciate the input on this bike and I am really excited to get going on it. I will figure out the pics thing and get some up.
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kellymac530 screwed with this post 08-27-2011 at 10:50 PM
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:48 PM   #12
kellymac530 OP
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So for anyone curious, she fired right up after a good carb cleaning and new rebuild kit. The guy i got it from thought there was some kind of electrical issue with it and had taken the head light shrouding apart trying to track it down.
I pulled all of the wire connections apart and gave them a quick wire brush and shot of contact cleaner. After charging the battery up I had all of the correct lights except the nuetral switch light on so it would not crank over....except as an existing BMW owner, I knew to try pulling in the clutch.
She cranked over for a while, I had put some marvel mystery oil in the cyclinders just as a precuation so she was slow firing off, then with a bike smelly puff of smoke and some sputtering she lit up. After a few minor cable adjustments I even got her to idle and rev up on the throttle with no real trouble. My battery is acting up so I ordered a new one today and that will be here in the morning.

After she ran for a while and the sat I noticed a puddle of oil next to the bike on the left side. After a bit of investigation I found a small crack in the valve cover {see my other thread on r80gs valve cover}.

All I am having trouble finding is a good front brake master cylinder. I found a new one at A&S but over $200.00 with shipping I am choking a bit. Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit out there for the piston in the master cylinder?

I need a new cup and rubber boot gasket also but even new those are not too badly priced.

Progress.

Let me know if there is a better way to rebuild the MC. or some great connection on one please.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:02 PM   #13
Airhead Wrangler
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You can buy a new piston for the master cylinder, but if the walls of the cylinder are pitted you're just chasing your tail. A new piston worked fine on mine though. There was talk a while ago of drilling pitted cylinders and sleeving them, but I'm not sure if anyone ever actually tried it. If the cylinder is corroded badly then the best answer I can give you is buy a new one now before they cost more. Either that or graft on something else from a newer bike.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:35 PM   #14
kellymac530 OP
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AW, thanx, A new piston, tank, and boot/seal is over a $100.00. I think I would opt for the new MC for $200.00 at that point.

I am seriously thinking of turning it into a Dakar Race replica with a better, bigger diameter front fork and a more dirt bike style front wheel and brake system so I am hoping to get it rideable without spending so much money on it yet.

If I decide to leave it stock for ever I will for sure just buy a new MC no sweat. That is why I am trying to see if I can just replace the tank and boot seal and maybe just the o-rings on the piston as a temporary fix to start riding it to see if I like it in stock form. After riding it for a bit I will make the decision on whether I should tear it apart and fully restore it to stock spec or if I should tear it apart and trick it all out.

I am going with everyones ideas on just getting it running and seeing where that takes me, so I am hoping to not have to drop so much money into it up front. Any ideas?
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:58 PM   #15
SOLO LOBO
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The seals on the master cylinder piston aren't o-rings... more like hats.

Motobins has the complete master's for $132 US, plus shipping (that's where I got mine)

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts....20valve%20Twin

A front end swap won't be cheap, I think $1K is really the low end to do it right, that said I think Brad grafted on a DR650 front end for less, but it ain't much better.

Lots of front-end swap info here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=unholy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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