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Old 08-26-2011, 02:15 PM   #16
tim007 OP
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That's next after this
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Old 08-26-2011, 03:05 PM   #17
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i like my setup.

I just put shinko 705's front and rear (2000 mi ago) on my mostly stock 2005 KLR; other than bar end weights, a front fork stabilizer, and a larger windscreen. I can easily run 80-90mph for 60-70 miles with no vibration (I only do this for convenience). The shinkos are quiet, grippy and corner great. I am 6ft 230# and the stock suspension is soft. This may not help you troubleshoot but these basic mods work great. I run 28psi on pavement.
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Old 08-26-2011, 03:17 PM   #18
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The same thing happens on my new-to-me DR350 at highway speeds as well. It needs a death grip on the bars or else its wicked tankslapper. I havent really looked into it yet.
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Old 08-26-2011, 03:24 PM   #19
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Ok so drag is set. I think lol I used some channel lock plyers to tighten it .. seemed to do the trick there not tight as hell but there not as loose as they were .. went took for a test drive got up to 70mph and no wobble. Went to 80 and wow did it wobble but atleast im now able to go faster than 50mph lol will play with suuspension next. Although I do like it soft I am 210lbs I checked today and when everything is set on high/its to harsh a ride. So I don't know .. the po said all the suspension is stock so its all stock

refresher ..update;;;
ok so yeah psi raised to 32 ish.... and drag increased .... tires are new ...all i can think of is needing to figure out suspension i am 210 checked today lol but with the rear on high its leand forward and is to harsh of a ride so i dont knoe ill play with that some say its the ammo cans but i cant not have them on there as they hold all my shit i need ( there not for decoration) i have sumo fender so no sail up front

after suspension im thinking im going to switch tires to a shinko 705 or something of that nature more highway orientated to reduce vibration and chance of wobble

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Old 08-26-2011, 04:11 PM   #20
Reposado1800
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It is the front fender flapping in the wind. Check tire balance too while you are at it and rim runout. You will be good to go.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:52 PM   #21
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Someone has mentioned it already but try it without the big aquare boxes on the back. You may be surprised how much they contribute.

You can always put them back on to haul yer shxt but at least you'll have either ruled them out or know what is causing it.
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim007 View Post
Ok so drag is set. I think lol I used some channel lock plyers to tighten it .. seemed to do the trick there not tight as hell but there not as loose as they were .. went took for a test drive got up to 70mph and no wobble. Went to 80 and wow did it wobble but atleast im now able to go faster than 50mph lol will play with suuspension next. Although I do like it soft I am 210lbs I checked today and when everything is set on high/its to harsh a ride. So I don't know .. the po said all the suspension is stock so its all stock

refresher ..update;;;
ok so yeah psi raised to 32 ish.... and drag increased .... tires are new ...all i can think of is needing to figure out suspension i am 210 checked today lol but with the rear on high its leand forward and is to harsh of a ride so i dont knoe ill play with that some say its the ammo cans but i cant not have them on there as they hold all my shit i need ( there not for decoration) i have sumo fender so no sail up front

after suspension im thinking im going to switch tires to a shinko 705 or something of that nature more highway orientated to reduce vibration and chance of wobble
Something to remember, which many don't realize is that adding preload to the spring doesn't make it stiffer. If you add enough preload that the ride becomes harsh chances are the shock is topping out on rebound. Add more rebound damping (that knob on the bottom of the shock) and see if that helps. If that doesn't help back out the preload a little bit, but I'd be surprised if you were out of your sag range with the stock suspension at full preload. How far does the rear of the bike sink down when you sit on the bike? I think the KLR should sag anywhere from 1 1/2 to 2 inches with rider. (sag rule of thumb with rider is 1/4 of total suspension travel)
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:56 PM   #23
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Yeah im going to take the boxes off and go for a test ride after this little helper of mine gets up from his nap (9 month old asleap in my arms) and when I adjust the rear shock I am adjusting the prelode and tthe rebound. In equal incriments.. I don't know how mush it sags buut I know that when I take it off the side stand the bike squats lower but it looks normal .. ill go call my friend at edr or gp suspension and see what they say they know what there doing when it comes to that isit
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:39 PM   #24
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Sometimes it is the obvious. If it did not do this this until you changed the tires, it is probably the tires. Are they seated correctly? Are they out of round? Did you check balance?

Have you checked your wheel bearings? Get the front off the ground and grab at 12 and 6 o'clock position and check for play. Put all the spacers back in the right place?

I am not familiar with your tire choice, but knobbies do squirm around on pavement until they wear a little and get a set.
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:42 PM   #25
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I supose I should mention that I do not change my on tires. :)
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:09 PM   #26
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Unless you have a pet monkey on the tank "helping you drive" it's the tire. Even if you do have a monkey it's still probably the tire...

Wait... scratch that. It's ALWAYS the tire, well not ALWAYS but almost always. A fork / frame twist can cause a wobble but not as often as monkeys do.

NOTE: Most frame and fork twists are cause by crashing the bike at speed.... due to a wobble caused by a bad tire and on rare occasion; monkeys.
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:10 PM   #27
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The KLR Death Wobble is really common.

What fixed it for me was loosening up the forks and front axle, moving them around in the clamps a bit and making sure they were even, then re-torquing them.

put bike on stand with front tire off the ground.
Loosen one fork's upper and lower clamps, leave the other side tight.
Rotate the top of the loose fork back and forth in the clamps to let it "settle" a bit (they will want to even themselves out if the front axle is tight, in other words if there is a difference in height in the clamps, it will move up or down to where there's no push or pull on the fork).
Re-torque the loose leg and go for a test ride.

That worked for me, dunno if it'll work for you.

Make sure your front tire doesn't have a broken bead wire, too. Spin it and look for a bulge in the sidewall.
That would be super obvious, but I've also had that happen to me when I had a shop mount a front tire for me. It was "free"
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:14 PM   #28
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I have worn out D606's on mine, the only time it doesn't wobble is when the front tire is in the air. My fix is to put the throttle lock on and steer with one hand in the middle of the cross bar. Before I put the fork brace on and changed the fork oil, it would go into a tank slapper If I held the grips at speeds over 80. Now it just has a boring low speed wobble, something like the notorious Harley wobble that makes posers piss in their panties. I do admit, the first time it happens it will scare the shit out of you, but with a little practice its just part of the adventure.
PS, if you are travelling at interstate speeds and something passes you that you want to speed up and check out again, thats when you will experience your first tank slapper.

I'm not suggesting that you not fix it, but the one hand in the middle of the cross bar thing will work when it develops the wobble. Mine does still have a slight wobble, but I do intend to cure it.

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Old 08-26-2011, 09:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni View Post
Remove ammo cans,

check axle torques

tighten steering head bearings

run full rear preload

raise forks in triple trees 5-10 mm

35 PSI in tires while on road

no death grip on the bars
This. The hand-guards are fine. The stock fender is fine. The first and most common cause is the rear shock preload. Adjust it upwards and then try it again. If this does not fix it totally, do the rest.
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Old 08-27-2011, 01:07 AM   #30
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service the fork oil... I have done at least a couple dozen KLRs & NONE were even up to minimum unless the owner did the work. proper oil level makes as much difference as adding a brace, and changing fenders & hand guards make only a minimal difference by comparison. the original oil level was 170mm, that changes to 190mm somewhere along the line. what WORKS is 170mm of 10 wt (or ATF)... remove springs, collapse forks, fill to 170mm from the top. trim with 10-15 psi air on the forks (no it won't blow the seals). every owner I've set up like this has been very happy with the outcome. also do like CA Stu advised on the fork/axle. and the rear shock preload thing too
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