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Old 10-19-2011, 11:17 PM   #31
Nailhead
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Originally Posted by slackmeyer View Post
Do you know what you're running now in the forks? Have you changed the oil or springs? For about the price of a front tire, it's definitely worth replacing the springs with heavier ones and changing the fork oil to something in the 10-15 weight range- synthetic ATF is really not a bad choice for the stock valving. My stock fork worked a lot better with royal purple ATF (couldn't find Mobil 1 locally) than it did with maxima 5 weight.

Hope you get your ktm problems sorted out- and ohlins are a pretty high bar to match, they really do work well.
Actually, I swapped out the stock springs for .56's & that alleviated the bottoming problem, but I still don't have the feel that GS does.

That's like admitting a tugboat is more fun than a skiboat.

It's going to be long winter here, so maybe I'll mess with the fluid-- M1 synthetic ATF is easily available around here.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:13 AM   #32
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Where do I get shims - or a shim kit?
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:25 AM   #33
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Where do I get shims - or a shim kit?
I think Trail Tricks will put together a shim kit for you. Individual shims are available from MX Tech, Race Tech and others.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:33 PM   #34
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Where do I get shims - or a shim kit?
I got mine from MX Tech. They were friendly, and shipped fast. Shipping isn't cheap though, it's better to get some extras than to have to reorder.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:40 PM   #35
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BTW-
To update this thread- I'm pretty happy with the changes I made. The forks have a lot more control over fast little bumps that used to use way too much of the stroke, and the low speed compression is much, much improved. I'm still using 10w (redline medium) to get the feel right. Things might work better if I added more shims and moved to a 5w oil, so the valve bodies could be less restricting, but I don't often feel like that's a problem with the way I ride.

I took the shock apart last week, it's been driving me crazy lately. After having a good hard look at that shim stack, I decided I didn't know what the hell I was doing, and took the whole shock over to James at Superplush for a revalve. Servicing it next time looks doable though- I'd like to start servicing the shock every year, and it would be nice to do it myself (cheaper, less downtime).
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:58 AM   #36
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There is about 2.0mm of 8mm shaft between the valve body and the shoulder of the rebound tap. The shims take up 0.4mm of that length, leaving 1.6mm of "float" in which they can move, with only spring resistance, before the shims need to bend to accommodate higher oil pressure.
OK, now that my forks are apart I see what you're referring to.

So, how do we decrease that float? More shims? A spacer?
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:13 AM   #37
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More shims. Check out my spreadsheet or Javiers post for some recommendations.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:19 AM   #38
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OOOooohhh...that's the part I was missing! Thanks!
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:43 AM   #39
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The more I read that amazing thread at KTMTalk, and the more I read about what you guys have done, and after I've taken my forks apart and have shims spread out over my work area, the more I am starting to understand, or at least not feel intimidated by all this anymore.

Best Thread Ever!!
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:43 PM   #40
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The more I read that amazing thread at KTMTalk, and the more I read about what you guys have done, and after I've taken my forks apart and have shims spread out over my work area, the more I am starting to understand, or at least not feel intimidated by all this anymore.

Best Thread Ever!!
You can do it. It really is not a black art like many try to make it out to be. There are many great tuners out there that are willing to list stack builds too and provide critique and help, and threads like this one help too. The only reason I don't do my own valve work on WP shocks is because I don't have the equipment to bleed them correctly.

Put the finishing touch on your forks by installing SKF fork seals and wipers, No stiction at all compared to the stock seals.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:03 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Chuckracer View Post
The more I read that amazing thread at KTMTalk, and the more I read about what you guys have done, and after I've taken my forks apart and have shims spread out over my work area, the more I am starting to understand, or at least not feel intimidated by all this anymore.

Best Thread Ever!!
I'm really glad this thread has helped someone (aside from me; it helped me a lot). Maybe I'll regret not doing the shock myself, but it seemed harder to find shim stack info on the shocks, and I don't have the time right now to make adjustments and readjustments many times.

Seems like bleeding the shock is doable using warm shock oil, a mityvac setup, and some time. Won't be as fast as a pro setup, I'm sure.
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:58 AM   #42
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Maybe someday I'll try a shock, but for now...baby steps.

Thanks for the tip on the SKF seal and wipers. My forks had ATF (unknown weight) in them for a long time. When I started messing with them, one of the first changes was oil. I went to a high dollar Maxima fluid and the increase in stiction was amazing!

At 60k miles, I guess I should do seals while I'm here just on general principle.

So far your (JohnF3 and Slackmeyer) posts and links on here, and that suspension thread at KTMRider, have been my "bible", and there's still lots more info for me to glean from those threads.

Have any other suggested reading materiel?
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:08 AM   #43
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Maybe someday I'll try a shock, but for now...baby steps.

Thanks for the tip on the SKF seal and wipers. My forks had ATF (unknown weight) in them for a long time. When I started messing with them, one of the first changes was oil. I went to a high dollar Maxima fluid and the increase in stiction was amazing!

At 60k miles, I guess I should do seals while I'm here just on general principle.

So far your (JohnF3 and Slackmeyer) posts and links on here, and that suspension thread at KTMRider, have been my "bible", and there's still lots more info for me to glean from those threads.

Have any other suggested reading materiel?
Speaking of bibles, the most comprehensive book I know of on this subject is the Motorcycle Suspension Bible by Paul Thede. It is not WP specific but it explains a lot.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:43 PM   #44
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I just had a sweet 900 mile "test ride swap" with a Husqvarna 610 supermoto with redone suspension. Obviously, my bike is not going to ever feel like a 300 lb supermoto with sticky rubber on the front, but it sure did make me realize that I still want more feeling at the front wheel.

I think I'll go back and try to follow Javier's advice on the midvalve a bit more- I reused the original shims (4 x 0.1mmx24mm), even though they were worn out. I'm going to replace those with some 0.15x24mm shims, and try to drop the float on the midvalve down to a bit less than 1 mm. (I think I'm at 1.05mm now, I'll aim for around 0.8mm). With the fork springs out, moving the damping rod up and down, it seems like I can move it quite fast before I feel the base valve starting to work.

Anybody else playing around with shim stacks this winter?
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Old 01-03-2012, 06:48 PM   #45
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I chickened out and turned to the pros. I decided I'd rather have it work right the first time than work on it.
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