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Old 10-04-2011, 02:02 AM   #421
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz-Strom View Post
Reposting seeking advice on the clutch lever ignition cutout - can it be bypassed easily?

Thanks
Beanie posted at some stage the resistance required for bypassing the roll-over switch and the side-stand switch. They were the same. I should think that the clutch lock-out should take the same resistor. Thats all I have....
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:39 AM   #422
edgy
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I just ordered a brand new 690 R which I will collect next week
I convinced our local dealer to throw in a new FMF(can`t remember the name), a SM screen and a set of Barkbusters
What are the 1st things to sort out/look for?
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Old 10-04-2011, 03:18 AM   #423
Brute
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Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen View Post


Thank you
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Old 10-04-2011, 03:36 AM   #424
StevenD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
Beanie posted at some stage the resistance required for bypassing the roll-over switch and the side-stand switch. They were the same. I should think that the clutch lock-out should take the same resistor. Thats all I have....

either leeve it open, or working properly. when you short this switch, the bike will be running in the clutch map, not granting you full power to protect, well, the clutch probably. And the piston from exploding of course
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:04 AM   #425
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
either leeve it open, or working properly. when you short this switch, the bike will be running in the clutch map, not granting you full power to protect, well, the clutch probably. And the piston from exploding of course

we cut the wires and connected them and then i raced the prologue...the bike ran like poo. so we put the stock "2 finger" lever back on and fixed the wires and all was good.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:26 PM   #426
Oz-Strom
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Thanks guys for the info - seems it is more than just a circuit breaker switch. Do the MotionPro or other brand non-OEM levers have the "bump" required to operate this switch?
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:17 AM   #427
motoged
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You rode on that for for 4 more days??!! ...and I always thought riding 4 miles on a puncture was bad
Yep....read all about it:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666961
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:16 AM   #428
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
either leeve it open, or working properly. when you short this switch, the bike will be running in the clutch map, not granting you full power to protect, well, the clutch probably. And the piston from exploding of course
No shorting, it needs a resistor, same as the sidestand and roll-over switches. None will operate without the correct resistance.
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:21 AM   #429
StevenD
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Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
No shorting, it needs a resistor, same as the sidestand and roll-over switches. None will operate without the correct resistance.
Bull, the clutch switch is a normal make or brake switch.

if you want to loose it, deal with starting in neutral or fix the interlock breaker.
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:43 AM   #430
Bill the Bong
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Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
Bull, the clutch switch is a normal make or brake switch.

if you want to loose it, deal with starting in neutral or fix the interlock breaker.
Thanks for the forcefull correction. I stand corrected.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:41 PM   #431
Barman
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New Socks

Just installed black guards and neoprene seal protectors.
I checked the instructions and the seal protectors are installed as per. I'm getting a small amount of stiction between the guards and the seals though. Not really enough to worry about but any is undesirable.
Anyone have any experience with these on the long term? I can foresee the seal protectors gathering dirt and having a rubbing compound sort of effect on the fork lowers. Better off without them??

Here are a couple of photos. (I'm putting these up just so we have something else to look at on this page other than Ged's bloated ankle)


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Old 10-05-2011, 12:45 PM   #432
StevenD
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Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
Thanks for the forcefull correction. I stand corrected.
Sorry, i must work on my interpersonalinternetskils
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:59 PM   #433
Uller
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Originally Posted by Barman View Post
I checked the instructions and the seal protectors are installed as per. I'm getting a small amount of stiction between the guards and the seals though.
I have the same seal protectors and am pretty sure the directions mention taking off the lower wear guards (sliders) from the fork before putting on the seal protectors.

From the looks of the above picture it looks like you didn't remove the guard sliders from the forks because of the rather large "hump" just below the zip tie.

Edit: just looked at the microfiche and what I am calling "lower wear guards (Sliders)" are acutally part #13 on the microfiche and are called a "fork protection ring".
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:03 PM   #434
DirtJack
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The Motion Pro levers do have the proper switch activators. I use them and they are much less expensive. I think it unwise to try to defeat the clutch switch because of the ECU interaction involving map selection and other issues. For example, the ECU has logic which cuts all fuel (rather than use the idle map) to the injector if you are in an upper gear, above a certain RPM, clutch engaged, and the throttle is closed. This is an emissions/fuel economy measure. There may be other ECU clutch interactions.
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:10 PM   #435
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barman View Post
Just installed black guards and neoprene seal protectors.
I checked the instructions and the seal protectors are installed as per. I'm getting a small amount of stiction between the guards and the seals though. Not really enough to worry about but any is undesirable.
Anyone have any experience with these on the long term? I can foresee the seal protectors gathering dirt and having a rubbing compound sort of effect on the fork lowers. Better off without them??

Here are a couple of photos. (I'm putting these up just so we have something else to look at on this page other than Ged's bloated ankle)
I use similar protectors (velcro closure for easy on/off to clean -- got them from Slavens Racing). You are supposed to pop the ring off. Jeff Slavens says to just cut the ring with side-cutting pliers to remove the ring. I didn't want to destroy the rings in case I want to run without the protectors, so I just slid mine up above the protector until the next time I have the forks off.
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