New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[Barman]

Originally Posted by Uller

I have the same seal protectors and am pretty sure the directions mention taking off the lower wear guards (sliders) from the fork before putting on the seal protectors.

From the looks of the above picture it looks like you didn't remove the guard sliders from the forks because of the rather large "hump" just below the zip tie.

Edit: just looked at the microfiche and what I am calling "lower wear guards (Sliders)" are acutally part #13 on the microfiche and are called a "fork protection ring".

Dang multi-language instructions got me again.
Wouldn't removing that "ring" entail pulling the forks apart though? If that's the case I'll just live with it.

[Barman]

Originally Posted by DirtJack

I use similar protectors (velcro closure for easy on/off to clean -- got them from Slavens Racing). You are supposed to pop the ring off. Jeff Slavens says to just cut the ring with side-cutting pliers to remove the ring. I didn't want to destroy the rings in case I want to run without the protectors, so I just slid mine up above the protector until the next time I have the forks off.

Ah.
I'll slide them up then. Thanks.

[Oz-Strom]

Originally Posted by DirtJack

The Motion Pro levers do have the proper switch activators. I use them and they are much less expensive. I think it unwise to try to defeat the clutch switch because of the ECU interaction involving map selection and other issues. For example, the ECU has logic which cuts all fuel (rather than use the idle map) to the injector if you are in an upper gear, above a certain RPM, clutch engaged, and the throttle is closed. This is an emissions/fuel economy measure. There may be other ECU clutch interactions.

Gone are the good old days when you just pulled the wires on these type of switches and shorted them, thanks to modern electronics (one thing leads to another due to interactions). Thanks for the advice, although it seems to be mixed as to whether it can be shorted, needs a resistor (what size?) or just use the proper levers or just live with starting in neutral (which I can't).

[Gros Buck]

Originally Posted by Barman

I had those. Friction worn them. Holes appeared and those neoprene guards transformed themselves in mud KEEPERS.

I removed it.

Paul Jr

[Barman]

Originally Posted by Gros Buck

I had those. Friction worn them. Holes appeared and those neoprene guards transform themselves in mud KEEPER.

I removed it.

Paul Jr

That's what I was thinking while I was installing them, collectors rather than protectors. I'll leave them as is till they get cruddy then slice 'em off. No big loss.

[bobzilla]

Originally Posted by Gros Buck

I had those. Friction worn them. Holes appeared and those neoprene guards transform themselves in mud KEEPER.

I removed it.

Paul Jr

that was my experience

[abhibeckert]

Originally Posted by R-dubb

Recently, my motor chugs a bit when I push the button after the ignition boots. Hot or cold, it does the same. It used to fire up instantly with lots of vigor. Not any more. In fact, it now requires me to crack the thottle open slightly. It cranks about eight rotations and then reluctantly fires up.

Your question is a bit old, but I was having the same issue and I think I've nailed it:

My battery was on it's way out. Replaced my battery, and bike has started instantly every time.

PS: the aftermarket battery company's catalogue had the wrong serial number listed for all three 690 models, leading to the dealer giving me the wrong battery (it was too tall by about 10mm). So if you're getting a new battery, it may be worth taking your old one in and comparing it to the one they give you. I found out the hard way...

[Barman]

What's in the box.
Pump
Filter
Hose Clamp
Sticker
And a candy bar.... how thoughtful.
Shipped quick too.

[Velociraptor]

Originally Posted by Barman

What's in the box.
Pump
Filter
Hose Clamp
Sticker
And a candy bar.... how thoughtful.
Shipped quick too.

Got one in the bike and one as a spare. Could not use the filter but did use the little metal retainer piece that comes with the filter to secure the old KTM filter on the end of the new pump. BTW I got an almond joy...

[Okipouros]

I got a Coconut thing bar, but it was melted . I liked the idea though

You can find filters here:


KTM 690 SM Duke SMC fuel filter OEM Mahle KL 15

[olec]

Originally Posted by olec

I cracked my seatbase after some hammering on the nasty MX track yesterday. Is there any stronger seats out there on the market? It cracked from side to side where the base hits the positive battery-teminal and its metalprotector whatever. THis is most likely going to happen again on a new seat, so maybe there is a trick I can do to prevent it?

Hi guys!

I ordered a standard oem seat to get ready for the race last weekend. It was a rocky and bumpy 3.5 hours race. Although the result was good, I was really tired and had to sit down in some sections I usually stand up. Guess what! The new seat cracked EXACTLY in the same places as the first one. Either my butt is kind of misshaped or these seats have some serious design flaws. Ayway, gotta do some repairs if possible or order a third seat, but this I'm gonna reinforce it before I use it. Has anybody put some extra fibreglass / carbon etc to their seat pan's ? If so, any pictures?

[stormdog]

What controls the idle speed on a 690R ?
My 09 Idles at aprox. 1700 RPM as per spec. It has been checked by a KTM shop and I have verified with the Tune Ecu program that the throttle settings are all correct.If the throttle is turned off at say 4,000 RPM, the engine speed drops to around 2200 RPM ( a guess since I have no tach) in a normal fashion, then it just kind of hangs there and then slowly ramps down to the correct idle. This will happen on both maps. The butterfly valve operates smoothly with no binding.
If I understand the system, the cable shuts the throttle off to a point and then the ecu is responsable for the last little bit of closure.
With close to 11,000 miles on the bike it runs great,does not stall or flame out.
So how does a fellow tell the ecu to drop the idle faster? I don't want a lower idle I just want it to happen faster.

[99' xr650L]

Originally Posted by stormdog

What controls the idle speed on a 690R ?
My 09 Idles at aprox. 1700 RPM as per spec. It has been checked by a KTM shop and I have verified with the Tune Ecu program that the throttle settings are all correct.If the throttle is turned off at say 4,000 RPM, the engine speed drops to around 2200 RPM ( a guess since I have no tach) in a normal fashion, then it just kind of hangs there and then slowly ramps down to the correct idle. This will happen on both maps. The butterfly valve operates smoothly with no binding.
If I understand the system, the cable shuts the throttle off to a point and then the ecu is responsable for the last little bit of closure.
With close to 11,000 miles on the bike it runs great,does not stall or flame out.
So how does a fellow tell the ecu to drop the idle faster? I don't want a lower idle I just want it to happen faster.

From what you describe and if I understand correctly, it sounds like your bike has the samething going on with it as mine.

I recently just bought a low mileage stock SMC and whenever you blip the throttle, it will hang at around 3500rpm for two or three seconds or so until it drops back down to a normal idle. Obviously, it makes riding the bike somewhat of a challenge because whenever you let off the throttle, the bike keeps going for a few seconds until the rpm's drop down and you get deceleration. It also has some jurkiness between around 4rpm's where it sometimes acts like it's running out of gas, but then all of a sudden picks back up again and pulls strong all the way to the top. I have done all the reset procedures, but they haven't had any effect. My belief is that it is running really lean and or needs the TPS reset. Check out this thread that I came upon this morning that has some helpful info regarding voltages and the TPS : http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...eECU&highlight=

I'm actually taking the bike tomorrow, Monday, to a dyno to have it all custom remapped and tuned which I'm hoping will resolve most if not all of the jerkiness and most importantly, the hanging idle issue.

I'll keep you posted on the results tomorrow.

I know most ride the Enduro model here, but here's a pic anyway...

[Renazco]

Originally Posted by olec

Hi guys!

I ordered a standard oem seat to get ready for the race last weekend. It was a rocky and bumpy 3.5 hours race. Although the result was good, I was really tired and had to sit down in some sections I usually stand up. Guess what! The new seat cracked EXACTLY in the same places as the first one. Either my butt is kind of misshaped or these seats have some serious design flaws. Ayway, gotta do some repairs if possible or order a third seat, but this I'm gonna reinforce it before I use it. Has anybody put some extra fibreglass / carbon etc to their seat pan's ? If so, any pictures?

It's a composite seat and even pulling the staples out causes these things to break. If you glass it make sure you do it on the inside of the pan.

I'm working on building a seat pan for this bike that will Polypropylene which would allow it to flex.

[Gros Buck]

Originally Posted by olec

Either my butt is kind of misshaped or these seats have some serious design flaws.

Same here. I hear Corbin seats produce their own pan which is reported sometimes as far more rugged then the OEM. On day I'll kick my ass and machine that extra aluminium support I intend to install roughly at the middle of that pan, directly on the steel tube structure.

Meanwhile, enjoy this picture of my armor rim strip after only 3000 miles. Never had this problem with my prior 690. May not be obvious on the picture, but except for 3 or 4 rays, its punctured everywhere. Sometimes 3/8" in diameter.

Paul Jr 8