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Old 08-04-2012, 01:34 PM   #4846
jonnykilo
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: East Coast Canada
Oddometer: 205
Ouch - engine rebuild - I think

Gents, looking for some advice on a way ahead:

Bike: 2008 690E with 8000kms, I am 2nd owner, mix of road and dirt - not really raced aside from one Sandblast rally; has had regular oil and service. I was knocked down by a "very nice" lady in a BMW SUV a few months ago - insurance and the local KTMdealer shack took care of replacing the clutch case cover as it was punctured by the brake lever. I killed the engine pretty much as soon as I came to my senses after the incident, so do not expect any oil loss damage from this incident. So, I only mention this issue in case someone thinks it may affect what follows below...no other engine work done thus far....I said thus far...

Situation: Did a 250km ride with Flanny et al, and the end of the mayhem, upon slowing to reasonable speeds in the approaches to the city, some seriously funky sounds heard coming from (left?) engine case. Kinda like a slow speed, not totally regular, but heavy clunk/tick sound - changed cadence with engine revs and gear shifting. Removed ear plugs and it sounded even worse :( Again, not totally regular, but definitely long and slow cadence with some random clunks thrown in for good measure. Initial thought was possibly hydraulic cam chain tensioner failure, and not totally sure of what exactly is from the engine when underway as the drive chain also needed replacing and is making noises. Installed the RR manual cam chain tensioner, new chain, and ran it - same sounds. Emptied oil - and wadda know, two partial spline/gear shards on the magnet. Pics here

IMG_2852

Filtered oil for residue, plumbed the engine's every oil orifice with the magnet, and filtered the removed oil - found some more much smaller shards (seen in the pic below). No major sparkly bits in the oil, and no other non magnetic bits. Pulled both side covers off the case, and took off the clutch basket - no evidence of missing splines or teeth or any other loose bits found - drat, now we need to go deeper....

IMG_2849

Soooooo, I think I am now resigned to splitting the lower case to find the smoking gun, ie - where the missing teeth came from, and to clean the entire engine of residue. This will be an entirely new level of moto work for me. I have some great wrenching mentors I can call on, but none 690 specific. I am thinking of doing this myself as a learning experience with the shop service manual firmly in hand. At this point, I am looking for advice, pointers towards related rebuild threads as I can't seem to find any, and any other comments you may wish to provide on the folly of my endeavour. Anyone see any direct tie-in between the previous accident (replacement of the punctured clutch case cover) and this issue, other than that totally terrible mechanics at the local shop (not likely) left something inside the case?

jonnykilo screwed with this post 08-04-2012 at 02:09 PM
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:48 PM   #4847
bobzilla
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did you look in the valve train?

is that all steel pieces?

did you look at the starter and sprague and idler

low miles it seems for a major failure unless its been run hard and neglected, and that dont seem the case here
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:58 PM   #4848
jonnykilo
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Location: East Coast Canada
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good query

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
did you look in the valve train?

is that all steel pieces?

did you look at the starter and sprague and idler

low miles it seems for a major failure unless its been run hard and neglected, and that dont seem the case here
Good questions
-All steel (magnetic) pieces - YES. I added a photo to my post of the initial find of residue on the magnet
-Valve train fine - well inside in spec, if only just slightly on the loose side
-starter and sprague? and idler - where is this, we pulled the clutch basket, and nothing untoward seen in what was visible there

jonnykilo screwed with this post 08-04-2012 at 02:07 PM
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:54 PM   #4849
Night Falcon
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 2,424
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnykilo View Post
Good questions
-All steel (magnetic) pieces - YES. I added a photo to my post of the initial find of residue on the magnet
-Valve train fine - well inside in spec, if only just slightly on the loose side
-starter and sprague? and idler - where is this, we pulled the clutch basket, and nothing untoward seen in what was visible there
I haven't herd any reports of these engines falling. Maybe a retaining clip inside the motor was knocked by the crash impact, and sprocket come loose over time? If this is the case your insurance might cover repairs? Mabybe worth while keeping the dealer in the loop to verify casue to the insurer?
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:49 PM   #4850
mickd
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: brisbane,australia
Oddometer: 1,919
hi all
can anyone give me a link/fix to the side stand sensor,i was reading one of the other threads that one broke off,and he said he could not loop the wires etc
i would like to do this in the shed and not out in the bush miles from home

thanks mickd
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:33 PM   #4851
RoninMoto
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Location: In the mountains?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickd View Post
hi all
can anyone give me a link/fix to the side stand sensor,i was reading one of the other threads that one broke off,and he said he could not loop the wires etc
i would like to do this in the shed and not out in the bush miles from home

thanks mickd
Side stand switch

Looks like its back-ordered...
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:53 PM   #4852
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickd View Post
hi all
can anyone give me a link/fix to the side stand sensor,i was reading one of the other threads that one broke off,and he said he could not loop the wires etc
i would like to do this in the shed and not out in the bush miles from home

thanks mickd
2.2k ohm resistor between black and pink wire.

See writeup at Supermotojunkie: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...02#post1427302
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:09 PM   #4853
wiswoodsguy
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Northwoods of WI
Oddometer: 2,410
I hate it I hate it I hate it

Talkin bout the 15/48 gearing that the previous owner put on my bike (of course he didnt give me the stockers). The KTM orange anodized 48T rear looks great and sets the bike off nice - great actually. BUT this thing is getting hard to ride off road. (single track scenario - not even tuff stuff) ITs jerky and almost impossible to ride in 1st and impossible to ride in anything but 1st - second is tooooo tall and really cries for help. On the road it is better - cept for 1st (too low) - rest of gears are fine. Forgot to mention that I have the Leo ignition retarder - and can only run it on 3 ( most road preferred setting). 2 makes it really impossible - #1 is OK at best, but is mainly for limited traction purposes.

For those that have switched from the 14/45(3.21)to 15/48(3.2) - tell me your thoughts. Do I need to switch back for off road ?? They are soooo close in a numbers aspect - but I never had a chance to compare to the stock gearing. DO I need to drop a tooth up front (14 = 3.43) to be happy - get that low down grunty pull that Im craving?? will it mellow out that jerky feeling and make 2nd usable off road ??

I have no quams about the gearing for higher speed riding. Blazing fire roads, highway riding, anything above 2nd and Im a happy 690 owner. But I like to ride this bike on trails - so's I needz ur helpz
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:14 PM   #4854
wswartzwel
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Location: Central Arkansas
Oddometer: 1,052
For highway and gravel i like stock gearing. For singletrack, I like a 14 on the countershaft.





Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
I hate it I hate it I hate it

Talkin bout the 15/48 gearing that the previous owner put on my bike (of course he didnt give me the stockers). The KTM orange anodized 48T rear looks great and sets the bike off nice - great actually. BUT this thing is getting hard to ride off road. (single track scenario - not even tuff stuff) ITs jerky and almost impossible to ride in 1st and impossible to ride in anything but 1st - second is tooooo tall and really cries for help. On the road it is better - cept for 1st (too low) - rest of gears are fine. Forgot to mention that I have the Leo ignition retarder - and can only run it on 3 ( most road preferred setting). 2 makes it really impossible - #1 is OK at best, but is mainly for limited traction purposes.

For those that have switched from the 14/45(3.21)to 15/48(3.2) - tell me your thoughts. Do I need to switch back for off road ?? They are soooo close in a numbers aspect - but I never had a chance to compare to the stock gearing. DO I need to drop a tooth up front (14 = 3.43) to be happy - get that low down grunty pull that Im craving?? will it mellow out that jerky feeling and make 2nd usable off road ??

I have no quams about the gearing for higher speed riding. Blazing fire roads, highway riding, anything above 2nd and Im a happy 690 owner. But I like to ride this bike on trails - so's I needz ur helpz
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:31 PM   #4855
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: In the mountains?
Oddometer: 1,695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
2.2k ohm resistor between black and pink wire.

See writeup at Supermotojunkie: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...02#post1427302
I was wondering when someone was going to revers-engineer the switch. I'll be putting a 2.2k Ω in my spare parts just in case. Thanks ULLER!
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:40 PM   #4856
Gros Buck
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Location: Quebec City, Canada
Oddometer: 848
My fourth seat lasted 1 hour. Destroyed exactly like de third. I need a fifth one.

Piece of shit.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19287014


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Old 08-04-2012, 07:56 PM   #4857
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
Oddometer: 1,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
My fourth seat lasted 1 hour. Destroyed exactly like de third. I need a fifth one.

Piece of shit.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19287014


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there was someone selling a corbin in the flea market. It has a custom base if you want to give that a try....

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Old 08-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #4858
Maxacceleration
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Wa
Oddometer: 2,269
I biffed it today (slippery bald M21 w/1800 miles - ya thats my story) and split the ride side of my radiator.
Is there a good aftermarket radiator available? Or is stock best. Cost considered.
Are people repairing our 690 radiator?
Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:17 PM   #4859
wiswoodsguy
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Northwoods of WI
Oddometer: 2,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel View Post
For highway and gravel i like stock gearing. For singletrack, I like a 14 on the countershaft.
What gearing are you running ?? Stock is 14/45
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:26 AM   #4860
BK.RD.RNR
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Livin' in the 90's
Oddometer: 5,894
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacceleration View Post
I biffed it today (slippery bald M21 w/1800 miles - ya thats my story) and split the ride side of my radiator.
Is there a good aftermarket radiator available? Or is stock best. Cost considered.
Are people repairing our 690 radiator?
Thanks.

Mylers or Mylars? does awesome work. They even built up the area where the fan rubs for me so I wouldn't have to worry about it. The price was very reasonable too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
What gearing are you running ?? Stock is 14/45

15/45 is stock
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