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Old 09-01-2012, 08:53 PM   #5356
Mac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
But the radiator is pressurized and wouldn't it keep a constaint pressure no matter what the elevation ? Being a closed system ( most of the time )
Close. More accurately, a radiator is sealed and allows pressure to build up to a certain level. The boiling point of the coolant directly varies with the pressure. Once the pressure is lost, due to a valve opening or something similar, the boiling point drops accordingly.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:23 PM   #5357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac View Post
Close. More accurately, a radiator is sealed and allows pressure to build up to a certain level. The boiling point of the coolant directly varies with the pressure. Once the pressure is lost, due to a valve opening or something similar, the boiling point drops accordingly.
Exactly. But the point I wanted to underline previously is what's the effect when it boils. Or get close to it. The most damageable thing is vapor. Because it corrodes the motor rapidly, and it has a much higher temp then surrounding liquid. So if your coolant do not turn into vapor, you can run your motor at higher temperatures. That's the main selling point of waterless coolants.

By the way, when one reaches 8 bars (somebody here have written 12), it blinks. I say that for those who wonder what's happening the coolant is about to boil ...

That said, I just cannot imagine that having a second fan could not be an interesting option at least for some ... I'm not sure I would go into the jungle with a coolant that I could not add water in case of emergency. In those cases, a second fan is a better safety then a better coolant ...

Paul Jr 8
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:34 AM   #5358
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We have been looking into the possibility of an aftermarket alloy radiator for some time,using our library of 690 CAD drawings.
Some of the features that would be incorporated into a new design would be:
1.Replace M6 threaded inserts on top front of rad with welded on tabs,with M6 clips,so if the rad screen screws were overtightened,it would not put stress into rad.
2.Replace plastic rad cap with EXC type cap,so that a 1,8 bar cap could be fitted.
3.Seperate overflow outlet,a la EXC,instead of the plastic elbow on top of OEM cap.
4.Replace welded-on lower tabs for side panels with a seperate mounting tab connected to a wrap round frame,completely disconnected from the cooling cores.

As you can see from the diagram,it would be possible to add a mount for an extra fan on the right hand side,but it would need the following mods.
1.Reposition stock coil further back,only up to 2011 models.
2.Alter angle of inlet pipe on new radiator.
3.New,longer rad hose for above.
4.Re-position fan sensor t/stat lower to clear hose.

Whilst it would,in theory,add more cooling capacity having 2 fans running,when the fans are not running,they add an obstruction to airflow through the radiator under forward motion.So the effect of adding an extra fan may not be a straightforward plus point.

www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:13 AM   #5359
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Still need some help with my starter problem; if anyone can offer some wisdom It would be appriciated. There is power to the starter button and the kill switch works fine...bridged the terminals on the starter solanoid and it started right up so there is either a break somewhere or something is telling the starter not to work....which i still suspect is the sidestand safety switch but as I don't know how to test/check it i have no way of telling. Can any of you fine fellows point me in the right direction on this?
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:33 AM   #5360
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starter problems

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Still need some help with my starter problem; if anyone can offer some wisdom It would be appriciated. There is power to the starter button and the kill switch works fine...bridged the terminals on the starter solanoid and it started right up so there is either a break somewhere or something is telling the starter not to work....which i still suspect is the sidestand safety switch but as I don't know how to test/check it i have no way of telling. Can any of you fine fellows point me in the right direction on this?
We carry a spare bar switch for rallies,as we have had a few problems with dust/sand entering the starter switch and causing the brass contacts to not touch properly.
The only definite way to eradicate the problem is to replace the large cluster switch with an EXC waterproof push-button starter switch & a separate on-off rocker for the stop.
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:04 AM   #5361
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Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post

John just wanted you to know if you could make a version with just 1 more powerful fan (maybe throw in a high, medium and low) that could be quickly removed, plugged into some extension wires and hung nicely from the ridgeline of a hammock I for one (and who knows how many others there might be) would be interested!!
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:07 AM   #5362
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oh and how about an extra liter of wate in the radiator that be drained and used for coffee with no ill effects?
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Old 09-02-2012, 05:11 AM   #5363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
Exactly. But the point I wanted to underline previously is what's the effect when it boils. Or get close to it. The most damageable thing is vapor. Because it corrodes the motor rapidly, and it has a much higher temp then surrounding liquid. So if your coolant do not turn into vapor, you can run your motor at higher temperatures. That's the main selling point of waterless coolants.

By the way, when one reaches 8 bars (somebody here have written 12), it blinks. I say that for those who wonder what's happening the coolant is about to boil ...

That said, I just cannot imagine that having a second fan could not be an interesting option at least for some ... I'm not sure I would go into the jungle with a coolant that I could not add water in case of emergency. In those cases, a second fan is a better safety then a better coolant ...

Paul Jr 8
I don't even use coolant in my 690. Just water and water wetter. Works just fine in the hot as hell these days south.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:20 AM   #5364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Falcon View Post
Still need some help with my starter problem; if anyone can offer some wisdom It would be appriciated. There is power to the starter button and the kill switch works fine...bridged the terminals on the starter solanoid and it started right up so there is either a break somewhere or something is telling the starter not to work....which i still suspect is the sidestand safety switch but as I don't know how to test/check it i have no way of telling. Can any of you fine fellows point me in the right direction on this?
I've been running the EXC starter button for a few years and I replaced my funny acting ignition switch with a push button on/off.
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:37 AM   #5365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
We have been looking into the possibility of an aftermarket alloy radiator for some time,using our library of 690 CAD drawings...
I'd buy it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
Whilst it would,in theory,add more cooling capacity having 2 fans running,when the fans are not running,they add an obstruction to airflow through the radiator under forward motion.So the effect of adding an extra fan may not be a straightforward plus point.
www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk
Well thought out. Likely 2nd fan unnecessary.

How is the new fuel tank production coming along?
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:20 AM   #5366
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EVO 2 Tank Kit

We hope to sample the mould end of next week
Also,we are finalising design on new twin headlight screen & fairing to suit new tanks
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:21 AM   #5367
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A three speed fan is an interesting idea. Manual or thermostat controlled.
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:09 PM   #5368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post


(1) We have been looking into the possibility of an aftermarket alloy radiator for some time,using our library of 690 CAD drawings.
Some of the features that would be incorporated into a new design would be:
1.Replace M6 threaded inserts on top front of rad with welded on tabs,with M6 clips,so if the rad screen screws were overtightened,it would not put stress into rad.
(2) 2.Replace plastic rad cap with EXC type cap,so that a 1,8 bar cap could be fitted.
3.Seperate overflow outlet,a la EXC,instead of the plastic elbow on top of OEM cap.
(3) 4.Replace welded-on lower tabs for side panels with a seperate mounting tab connected to a wrap round frame,completely disconnected from the cooling cores.

As you can see from the diagram,it would be possible to add a mount for an extra fan on the right hand side,but it would need the following mods.
1.Reposition stock coil further back,only up to 2011 models.
2.Alter angle of inlet pipe on new radiator.
3.New,longer rad hose for above.
(4) 4.Re-position fan sensor t/stat lower to clear hose.
Hello Mitch

(1) When you say alloy, you mean Aluminium alloy ???
(2) Replacing the cap to 1.8 bar is the logical next, step however, the pump below is an impeller pump if I remember well. That means constant pressure and not constant flow. Increasing the coolant circuit pressure will innevitably reduce the flow. The capacity to transport heat is mostly influenced by flow, and almost not by pressure. You have the OEM pump curve, or you have made basic tests to verify this ? There's also the issue the pump's seal being notoriously weak and prone to failure. There's always to posibilty to swap the OEM seal to something much stronger. Finaly there's also the head gasket that seams to be more and more of an issue. Again, maybe it's possible to find something stronger there.
(3) KTM crash guard is not rugged enough. While you are designing some form of braket to hold your RRaid tanks and plastic covers, it would be nice all those things be integrated with a bottom crash guard. I imagine it's what you mean with "wrap around frame" ?
(4) Don't need to reposition the temp sensor. Just weld an 80 degres elbow instead of a 90 degrees elbow. It would be more natural too. The coolant hose is an obstruction behind the rad anyway. Re routing it around the rad would increase the flow.

I see four of your bolt-on clamps. Why ? By the way, I had two 8 mm rods fatigue-failed that broke completely. I made a 20 mm thick spacers instead of the nuts supplied in your kit. I.e. It's like if you had machined your clamps 20 mm longer.

I suspect these http://www.spalusa.com to be one of KTM suppliers for fans. More precisely here: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...oryBody&c=FAMO and here: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...oryBody&c=FAAC

Paul jr 8
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Gros Buck screwed with this post 09-03-2012 at 05:40 AM
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:27 PM   #5369
kojen
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Modified to fit 2012 model

Just wanted to post a picture of my bike. Made some adjustments to the RR-UK fairing to fit my 2012 model.
Changed the angle of the fairing a bit forward and made some adjustments to fit the 2012 sidepanels...
Made some extra space for RB, GPS276c and IMO. Pretty happy with the result...

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Old 09-02-2012, 06:15 PM   #5370
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Very nice. Can you post more pics?

Nick
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