New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[shipwrek12001]

Originally Posted by Seth S

My waterpump seal failed around 10000 miles but its not a pandemic

thanks all for your input about water pumps


Seth, when you say yours failed, what failed on the water pump, and why do you think it failed.

[ktmmitch]

Originally Posted by Dotbond

Are you able to give me some guidance on how to soften up the compression damping on the front forks? There is a suspension guy in NZ but he hasn't really had much to do with 690's and in particular the 2012 model. I told him my problem of the front bouncing off bumps and rocks while trailriding ( I weigh 78kg in my birthday suit) and he said to unscrew the base valve from the bottom of the forks and send them up to him and he would replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims. Does this sound right?

I'll pay you for your advise and buy the parts from you if necessary ktmmitch!!

Cheers
Trev

Best thing to do first is to fit 4,8Nm springs,they are too hard stock,Then 5W oil with 115mm air gap.

[Swap]

Originally Posted by wsmc831

Are you saying you've replaced the shims and it's an improvement?

I've seen the information on that reduction of thickness but haven't seen much feedback from people that have actually done it.

i'm not realy happy whith ride comfort for the long travel track
i did'nt try to modify setting of fork and rear schock after 12 000 km yet
it's realy urgent for me now (my back is not happy)

[Chris 690R]

Anyone know what the diff is between the 12 690 and the new 2013 690?

Chris

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by Chris 690R

Anyone know what the diff is between the 12 690 and the new 2013 690?

Chris

365 Days?



I haven't heard of any changes what so ever to the '13 bikes.

Dirty

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Chris 690R

Anyone know what the diff is between the 12 690 and the new 2013 690?

Chris

Unlike 2012 there will be no adventure model offered in 2013

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by shipwrek12001

thanks all for your input about water pumps


Seth, when you say yours failed, what failed on the water pump, and why do you think it failed.

The inner water pump seal failed. The coolant filled the oil chamber and the bike overheated. It was during a race...as a result the headgasket also failed. However I did not realize that the headgasket had failed until I replaced the water pump seals. When I fixed the pump seals I could see clear signs of coolant leaking past the inner seal (oil/water barrier) along the shaft.

it took 4 oil changes in rapid succession to clean all the contaminated oil out of the engine. The first batch of fresh oil turned instantly to a milkshake....so I drained it and filled with used oil...ran for a couple of minutes and then drained...refilled with used oil and repeated until the oil drained out clean.

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Dotbond

Are you able to give me some guidance on how to soften up the compression damping on the front forks? There is a suspension guy in NZ but he hasn't really had much to do with 690's and in particular the 2012 model. I told him my problem of the front bouncing off bumps and rocks while trailriding ( I weigh 78kg in my birthday suit) and he said to unscrew the base valve from the bottom of the forks and send them up to him and he would replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims. Does this sound right?

I'll pay you for your advise and buy the parts from you if necessary ktmmitch!!

Cheers
Trev

Easiest way to fix the 690 suspension is to pull it off the bike and throw in in the dumpster and then invest in some good stuff. I have a reworked set on my bike and though it is vastly better than stock it still doesn't feel as good as some of the older 525's and a 640 adventure I have ridden with well setup suspension.

[Bruno T .]

Originally Posted by ktmmitch

New Billet Clutch & Brake levers to suit KTM 690 Enduro,these have been specifically designed for these models by Rally-Raid Products,as the EXC clutch lever,whilst similar looking,will not actuate the clutch switch,so not giving full power.

Huh ?

The factory clutch lever has a cast in boss which depresses the clutch switch when the lever is pulled in to allow the m/c to be started in gear [provided the side stand is up].

Aftermarket lever replacements, such as Motion pro, which don't have that boss will result in nothing more than the clutch switch not being depressed when the lever is pulled in, therefore not allowing the m/c to be started when in gear.

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Seth S

Easiest way to fix the 690 suspension is to pull it off the bike and throw in in the dumpster and then invest in some good stuff. I have a reworked set on my bike and though it is vastly better than stock it still doesn't feel as good as some of the older 525's and a 640 adventure I have ridden with well setup suspension.

Actually, the stock reworked suspension works really well when you put 17" wheels and sticky tires on them.

[Bruno T .]

Originally Posted by Dotbond

I have been recommended to take out the base valve stack and replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims.

That's what i ended up with on my 10, but only the larger diam ones, not all of them. Removed the small backer too. It's certainly not the same as springing for closed chambers, but it doesn't deflect like it used to.

I'd pull the stack and measure it up as a 12 might be different.

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Bruno T .

Huh ?

The factory clutch lever has a cast in boss which depresses the clutch switch when the lever is pulled in to allow the m/c to be started in gear [provided the side stand is up].

Aftermarket lever replacements, such as Motion pro, which don't have that boss will result in nothing more than the clutch switch not being depressed when the lever is pulled in, therefore not allowing the m/c to be started when in gear.

this is true. And it is a major pain in the ass having to start the bike in neutral every time. Disconnecting the clutch switch and shorting it out will result in poor running and less power though

[Bruno T .]

Originally Posted by Seth S

Disconnecting the clutch switch and shorting it out will result in poor running and less power though

Indeed.

Oh, so what he was saying is that if you were to install a non OE lever, and short the switch to get around not having to be in neutral to start the m/c, that would result in less power.

Makes sense. Thanks for clarifying, Seth.

[Baja Dad]

Originally Posted by Seth S

this is true. And it is a major pain in the ass having to start the bike in neutral every time. Disconnecting the clutch switch and shorting it out will result in poor running and less power though

WHY ???

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Baja Dad

WHY ???

Because neutral is a bitch to find on the bike.