New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[Bruno T .]

Originally Posted by Baja Dad

WHY ???

I assume you mean why the power loss . .

Good question.

atom7 confirmed it by rigging a switch that he could toggle on and off - here.

I wonder if the clutch switch simply activates the neutral throttle map. If that's the case, it'd be easy to modify that map [mine already is].

I need to rig up a similar switch and do some testing.

[dad2bike]

Originally Posted by Bruno T .

I assume you mean why the power loss . .

Good question.

atom7 confirmed it by rigging a switch that he could toggle on and off - here.

I wonder if the clutch switch simply activates the neutral throttle map. If that's the case, it'd be easy to modify that map [mine already is].

I need to rig up a similar switch and do some testing.

Yes. Please do.
I found that switch a PITA on my 950A and simply jumpered it. I surely would want to do the same on this bike.
Please tell us where in the map to turn it off as well.

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Albie

Because neutral is a bitch to find on the bike.

Its also a pain if you are racing...or riding in traffic or someplace inconvenient to have to drop down to neutral and start the bike.

In australia we had problems with an aftermarket brake lever as it did not hit the switch properly and thus required neutral to start. So we cut the switch wires and shorted them together. I ran the prologue of the Safari with it this way and the bike stalled left and right, was way down on power, and generally ran like crap. After that we reconnected the switch and I ran my "modified" stock clutch lever and it was back to normal. The clutch switch does something to the efi on the stock system...what exactly I do not know but it does run like poo

[DirtJack]

Originally Posted by Seth S

Its also a pain if you are racing...or riding in traffic or someplace inconvenient to have to drop down to neutral and start the bike.

In australia we had problems with an aftermarket brake lever as it did not hit the switch properly and thus required neutral to start. So we cut the switch wires and shorted them together. I ran the prologue of the Safari with it this way and the bike stalled left and right, was way down on power, and generally ran like crap. After that we reconnected the switch and I ran my "modified" stock clutch lever and it was back to normal. The clutch switch does something to the efi on the stock system...what exactly I do not know but it does run like poo

This is yet another topic which was discussed/explained several times on the old mega thread which is now lost. Don't know if I can remember all the details or not, but the Kehein ECU has logic (to save fuel/emissions) which cuts off fueling if the motor is in gear and above a certain rpm and the clutch is not pulled, when the throttle is closed, knowing the motor will restart when the throttle is opened. If these conditions are not met, then the idle map must be used to keep the motor running. If the ECU thinks the clutch is always pulled, then the idle map gets used in situations it should not be.

I don't think anyone had solved this problem while disabling the clutch switch.

[Dotbond]

Originally Posted by Swap

i'm not realy happy whith ride comfort for the long travel track
i did'nt try to modify setting of fork and rear schock after 12 000 km yet
it's realy urgent for me now (my back is not happy)

Well, at least you are a lot closer to the UK and Rally Raid Products than I am ( New Zealand ) to get your suspension to them to sort out for you.

[Chris 690R]

Originally Posted by Seth S

Unlike 2012 there will be no adventure model offered in 2013

Man why don't they produce a true adventure version of the 690?????????

Because it will effect the sales of the 990 of course!!!!!!

I need a proper screen and dash for my 690, but don't want to spend $3k to do it!

Chris

[crankshaft]

After reading the drama about the clutch switch, I'm really glad I ditched the KTM nanny boxes

[FriedDuck]

I snapped a clutch lever and replaced it with a motion pro version and it has the boss on it to engage the switch. (Dealer, though, sold me the wrong lever on the 1st try. In fact those f***ers sold me both the wrong brake lever AND the wrong clutch lever. It was mail order after that experience )

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by crankshaft

After reading the drama about the clutch switch, I'm really glad I ditched the KTM nanny boxes

An added bonus for sure

[DirtJack]

Originally Posted by crankshaft

After reading the drama about the clutch switch, I'm really glad I ditched the KTM nanny boxes

Damn computers, can't live with em, can't have this discussion without em.

[Dotbond]

Originally Posted by ktmmitch

Best thing to do first is to fit 4,8Nm springs,they are too hard stock,Then 5W oil with 115mm air gap.

Do Rally Raid sell these 4,8Nm springs? 465mm long from what i have read.

I see in an older blog on the Rally Raid website that you are developing a insert for the front forks in conjunction with Ohlins, hows that coming along?

[thorinoakenshield]

anybody install fork bleeders on the 690?
just curious.
i have them on my 450, they are nice to have.

[MrHix]

Motion Pro Micro Bleeders on mine. They sit lower and are less likely to rip off.

Cheers,

MrHix

[crankshaft]

I carry a screw driver in my fanny pack, seems to work well and have never ripped the stock bleeder screws off. Not for lack off trying mind you

[Baja Dad]

Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield

anybody install fork bleeders on the 690?
just curious.
i have them on my 450, they are nice to have.

I have them on All my bikes.
I have NEVER broke one off