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Old 02-06-2013, 02:29 PM   #7111
Noyah
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Oddometer: 396
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfighter View Post
question is, did KTM do anything about the radiator fan spacing or do i need to get in there and shim it back? I noticed they added a tie-off to keep the fuel line off the frame bolt next to the air box... so i was hoping maybe they are paying attention?

The -11 are indeed updated, wise to check tho!
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:46 PM   #7112
Honkey Cat
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Joined: May 2011
Location: SW Florida
Oddometer: 1,084
pic of lexan guard

Quote:
Originally Posted by ten.98 View Post
So in my continued effort to serve as but a warning to others, I shall let it be known that plugging this port:



while performing the air box delete step in the EVO2 tuning kit install will turn your clutch cover into a makeshift blowoff valve.


I now have a rather odd request...I can't remember exactly how deep the o-ring around the clutch cover is supposed to be seated. I've looked through this entire thread for close up pictures of clutch covers, and the ones I've found it's hard to tell if you can see a small amount bare aluminum on the outside of the oring or not.

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about (from another inmate who had a similar issue):



Can someone take a quick peek at their 690 for me and let me know if the o-ring is seated such that you can see a small amount a bare (silver) aluminum around the outside? I want to make sure I get this thing put back together as best I can and the repair manual has nothing on this.

Thanks
here is a pic of my 2010
Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:27 PM   #7113
Albie
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Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,252
Well, clutch slave cylinder finally took a shit. Looks like tomorrow I'll be installing the Sigutech one I bought a couple years ago.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:21 PM   #7114
lightfighter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Sierra Vista AZ.
Oddometer: 2,243
maybe this should go in an exhuast thread somewhere, but my previous 690r had a LV on it... before I buy another one, can anyone direct me to a thread where there are pics of a stock can cut open and de-catted? I did that on a BMW collector and it worked out nicely... im inclined to try it here.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:13 PM   #7115
Sutherngintelmen
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Location: ATL
Oddometer: 1,197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Well, clutch slave cylinder finally took a shit. Looks like tomorrow I'll be installing the Sigutech one I bought a couple years ago.
Take pics - maybe I'll get inspired and install mine - thanks group buy.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #7116
ten.98
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Oddometer: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
Yep. You can see a small amount of metal (less than 1mm probably) - this on my 2012.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
here is a pic of my 2010
Awesome, thanks for the help guys.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:02 PM   #7117
Motomochila
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: N 34 22.573' W 118 34.328' Jes North of LA a few.
Oddometer: 861
690 speedo to 990 speedo

I know it's been done here about 8,000 times, or I thought its been done...but can anybody direct me to the thread or tell me what speedo upgrade works best. My junker..er, stocker is not working and I want to get something I can actually see at speed. Did some searching but could not find it. ..and yep I'm a bit inept on searching here.

Does the 950-990 exchange easily? Is there an aftermarket that works better and connects to the stock wiring harness?

Bike is an 09. I had a Britannia Composite Lynx fairing mounted up and I loaded the stock speedo onto the dash panel. Seems all the tabs have broken loose and the unit has stopped working due to excessive vibration. Going back to a stock number plate with a Baja Designs LED light set-up, then I want to mount a new or working speedo to the stock mounting location.

Any words of wisdom or guidance?

Thanks

Jerry
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:48 AM   #7118
davidmnz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Auckland, NZ
Oddometer: 24
Front sprocket cover with 17T sprocket?

I thought I was being clever by choosing a 50 tooth rear sprocket and using a 15 tooth front for off road and a 17 tooth for on road. So I could just swap front sprockets as/when needed. 17/50 is pretty close to stock and 15/50 is nicely lower for slow off road stuff without having to slip the clutch a lot. 15/50 worked fine but when I put the 17T on I couldn't get the chain guard/sprocket cover back on. Looks like there isn't enough clearance between the 17T sprocket and the clutch slave cylinder. Am I correct that the cover just won't fit with a 17T front sprocket? Why do KTM list a 17 tooth sprocket if the cover won't fit?
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:19 AM   #7119
davidmnz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Auckland, NZ
Oddometer: 24
Wolfman E12 plus rack and bags?

Since the luggage thread looks pretty quiet I thought I'd ask here. Has anyone tried the E12 bags and saddle bags mounted on the Wolfman racks at the same time? I mean with the E12s in front of the rack+bags, not mounted on the rack. Looks like there might be enough room and it would keep weight low and forward compared to E12s + a duffel behind the seat or just loading up rack-mounted bags (too far back). The idea would be to put the heaviest stuff in the E12s and lighter stuff in the saddle bags.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:32 AM   #7120
tertsu
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomochila View Post
I know it's been done here about 8,000 times, or I thought its been done...but can anybody direct me to the thread or tell me what speedo upgrade works best. My junker..er, stocker is not working and I want to get something I can actually see at speed. Did some searching but could not find it. ..and yep I'm a bit inept on searching here.

Does the 950-990 exchange easily? Is there an aftermarket that works better and connects to the stock wiring harness?

Bike is an 09. I had a Britannia Composite Lynx fairing mounted up and I loaded the stock speedo onto the dash panel. Seems all the tabs have broken loose and the unit has stopped working due to excessive vibration. Going back to a stock number plate with a Baja Designs LED light set-up, then I want to mount a new or working speedo to the stock mounting location.

Any words of wisdom or guidance?

Thanks

Jerry
Sorry, not any words of wisdom, but almost same thing happens to me too with Lynx fairing. 2 of 3 tabs have broken from speedo due front brake cable hits it in big jumps or when wheeling. Luckily the speedo still works and I managed to fix tabs somehow, but I still need to reposition the speedo to avoid this in future.

Found this: http://www.koso.com.tw/products-deta...lang=en&id=292 could be a solution for you?
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:38 AM   #7121
touser
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: NSW South Coast Aus
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmnz View Post
I thought I was being clever by choosing a 50 tooth rear sprocket and using a 15 tooth front for off road and a 17 tooth for on road. So I could just swap front sprockets as/when needed. 17/50 is pretty close to stock and 15/50 is nicely lower for slow off road stuff without having to slip the clutch a lot. 15/50 worked fine but when I put the 17T on I couldn't get the chain guard/sprocket cover back on. Looks like there isn't enough clearance between the 17T sprocket and the clutch slave cylinder. Am I correct that the cover just won't fit with a 17T front sprocket? Why do KTM list a 17 tooth sprocket if the cover won't fit?
Ive had a 17 with the cover on ok, Had the same idear but .to do the 15-17 tooth thing you'll have to add/remove a link
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:16 AM   #7122
dirty_sanchez
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
Oddometer: 2,855
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmnz View Post
Since the luggage thread looks pretty quiet I thought I'd ask here. Has anyone tried the E12 bags and saddle bags mounted on the Wolfman racks at the same time? I mean with the E12s in front of the rack+bags, not mounted on the rack. Looks like there might be enough room and it would keep weight low and forward compared to E12s + a duffel behind the seat or just loading up rack-mounted bags (too far back). The idea would be to put the heaviest stuff in the E12s and lighter stuff in the saddle bags.
Santa brought me a set of E12 side bags and I have them mounted just in front of the Touratech hard bag mounts.

Storage space for day trips and tools between the two side bags almost gives me the same space as the Wolftail tail bag I used on the 640A I just sold. I got the E12's because I have plans on adding the 1.75 gal Rotopax can to the SWMotech rear rack and didn't want to run the risk damaging the rear of the bike with the added weight of the fuel can and the tail bag.

You want a picture?

Dirty
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:20 AM   #7123
dirty_sanchez
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touser View Post
Ive had a 17 with the cover on ok, Had the same idear but .to do the 15-17 tooth thing you'll have to add/remove a link
You can't spend 5 minutes with the case protector and a bench grinder grinding the inside of the curved part to make them fit and flip the axle block 180 degrees like you can on the 640's with the same chain length if you're running the 15 or the 17 tooth front?

Maybe if someone else knows about flipping the axle spacer block around they could chime in.

Dirty
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:35 AM   #7124
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen View Post
Take pics - maybe I'll get inspired and install mine - thanks group buy.
Wouldn't ya know it, I let somebody borrow my Miti-vac and the sorry SOB is out of town right now.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:04 AM   #7125
Albie
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Well, simple enough, didn't even need my Miti-Vac

Just remove the old slave and clean off any residue gasket material. Then unbolt the line and bleed nipple off the old slave.



The Sigutech comes with a new gasket so mount those up. The upper right bolt hole on the Sigutech slave makes it a bit of a chore to get an 8mm wrench on the bleed nipple.



[IMG][/IMG]

Since I'm still using the stock CS sprocket cover I grabbed a shorter bolt to go into the bottom hole so I could torque down the new slave. I'll let it sit like that over night before I take it out and reinstall the cover.

[IMG][/IMG]

After that it's just a matter of filling up the clutch reservoir with some mineral oil and then just bleeding the system. Took about 15-20 minutes from start to finish.
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