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Old 03-06-2013, 06:21 AM   #7576
Swap
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Paris/Provence
Oddometer: 29
suspension

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbugberg View Post
I love my Wings exhaust; second be mod I've made, the first being the suspension done by Stillwell performance. I always felt the front on my 2010 690 was harsh and didn't feel planted. Alan Stillwell worked his magic adding 0.54/100 springs (front/rear). This allowed the rear to sit properly and bias more weight to the front. The valving allows the wheels to move much faster over the ground providing more traction without chatter (I can actually accelerate on washboard without the back end neither packing nor swapping). It's almost like cheating over the rocks, the boingers are super compliant, rarely deflect, and make it so I almost don't have to pick a line; just pin it and plow over the crap. On the slab all the small chop is eliminated and the bike ride is more comfortable on longer rides. A huge improvement overall and no question a must do for riders that think their 690 is a dirt bike.

On another note, I had to cut my ride short due to a coolant leak between the case and the cylinder just below the exhaust port. Anyone else see leaking there?
Hi Bigbugberg
I'm interesting with your suspension mod
I'm looking for daily comfort , on the road, and the track, but not in competition way, sometime with luggage (giant loop) not so heavy
But I can't go to see Mr Alan Stillwell with my bike ! (Paris)
Do you know where I can find these 0.54/100 springs (front/rear)?
another pieces to change or to mod? valving, oil ?
is there a special kit for 690, and at what price ?
Thank's for your answer !
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:30 AM   #7577
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
IMO, the only reason to remove the SAS is if you are putting on a Safari tank, or the RR tanks. Other than that, there isn't much sense in trying to out think a team of Austrian Engineers.
The other reason is if you do much work on your bike. The damn canister makes simple things like getting the radiator guards unbolted a real PITA.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:37 AM   #7578
tattewell
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Location: Petawawa Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
The other reason is if you do much work on your bike. The damn canister makes simple things like getting the radiator guards unbolted a real PITA.
Never could be bothered to remove mine... doesn't weigh fuck all either.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:42 AM   #7579
Bigbugberg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swap View Post
Hi Bigbugberg
I'm interesting with your suspension mod
I'm looking for daily comfort , on the road, and the track, but not in competition way, sometime with luggage (giant loop) not so heavy
But I can't go to see Mr Alan Stillwell with my bike ! (Paris)
Do you know where I can find these 0.54/100 springs (front/rear)?
another pieces to change or to mod? valving, oil ?
is there a special kit for 690, and at what price ?
Thank's for your answer !
PM Sent
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:06 AM   #7580
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian_Bacon View Post
I am going to be installing the Evo 2 RR tanks and fairings (head lamp, etc.) so now I'm a bit confused. I thought folks were getting rid of the SAS system when they upgraded the exhaust due to catalytic converter no longer being an issue. This is the first I've heard of the RR tanks affecting the SAS system. What's the connection there?

on the EVO 1 tanks the charcoal canister was in the way and had to be removed. The SAS valve wasn't an issue but becomes pointless if the stock Cat muffler is removed.

Install your EVO2 setup, remove the charcoal system and block off the old ports. I left the valve in place and left it hooked up but removed the hoses and have had no issue. I removed the fitting on the throttle body for the charcoal system and sealed it with a bolt.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:30 AM   #7581
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tattewell View Post
Never could be bothered to remove mine... doesn't weigh fuck all either.
If I never worked on the bike I wouldn't bother taking it off either. Unfortunately, that's not the case for me. Taking it off permanently once, was much easier then taking it off and putting it back on every time I mess with the rad.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:42 AM   #7582
Head2Wind
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: NorthWet Washington
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SAS removed and 2.2k ohm resistors put in place of the electro-valves, 1000s of miles later, still working as designed by me. Also crankcase vent system was altered to look like the RR system, works perfectly too and clearance to the RallyRaid EVO1 tanks is just fine. Granted, there is probably zero "performance" improvements by removing/altering these systems, it does make working on the engine easier and therefore worth it for me.

I also slotted the forward airbox mount tabs so I can remove the airbox without pulling the Rally tanks, which included cutting up a engineered design..... works better now with better engineering
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:59 AM   #7583
blakrj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I imagine NOT having a thermonuclear reactor bolted to your bike will be a lot less likely to burn out components and ADD to reliability.
Not really - Sherri Jo has plenty more km's on her 690 with a stock can. That said I have had both a Leo Vince and Akra on my 690's and couldn't be happier. Anybody want to buy some unused stock cans
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:08 AM   #7584
ghostridergary
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Why is fuel filter between the pump & regulator?

I've seen lots of posts about in tank and outside tank filters and their benefits.

Could someone explain to me the rationale for why the filter is between the pump and the regulator - presumably there is a reason for having it there rather than where the disconnect is (outside the tank)?

The fuel going to the regulator from the pump has already passed through the mesh screen before entering the pump so why does it need to be filtered again? Is the regulator that sensitive?

Why not just connect the pump to the regulator (without the filter) and put a filter in place of the disconnect?

Any explanations appreciated........
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:39 AM   #7585
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostridergary View Post
I've seen lots of posts about in tank and outside tank filters and their benefits.

Could someone explain to me the rationale for why the filter is between the pump and the regulator - presumably there is a reason for having it there rather than where the disconnect is (outside the tank)?

The fuel going to the regulator from the pump has already passed through the mesh screen before entering the pump so why does it need to be filtered again? Is the regulator that sensitive?

Why not just connect the pump to the regulator (without the filter) and put a filter in place of the disconnect?

Any explanations appreciated........
Some of us do just that. I moved mine outside and reduced the tubing mess in the tank considerably. I can swap filters at any interval I choose now without much fuss.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #7586
Velociraptor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostridergary View Post
I've seen lots of posts about in tank and outside tank filters and their benefits.

Could someone explain to me the rationale for why the filter is between the pump and the regulator - presumably there is a reason for having it there rather than where the disconnect is (outside the tank)?

The fuel going to the regulator from the pump has already passed through the mesh screen before entering the pump so why does it need to be filtered again? Is the regulator that sensitive?

Why not just connect the pump to the regulator (without the filter) and put a filter in place of the disconnect?

Any explanations appreciated........
Good question. I do not have an answer since I do not know the details of how a regulator works. I once took apart the in-tank fuel filter. The filter material was darker colored compared to a new one but that seemed to be due to being exposed to gas rather than being clogged. There was no debris in the screen or the filter. For now I left the in-tank fuel filter and added an external one in place of the quick disconnect in order to minimize the chances of the injector clogging. Probably overkill. My 09 has 11,000 miles on it and I have never had a fuel related issue. I replaced the stock fuel pump a long time ago with one from CA Cycleworks.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:38 AM   #7587
690R
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KTM 690 Carbon/Kevlar Parts

Hey guys,

Just wanted to give you all a heads up. I posted up an add for the Carbon Fiber/Kevlar rally style skid plate and carbon fiber exhaust guards for sale over in the Vendor section. Here's a link to pics. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:26 PM   #7588
JustBob
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Rear brake pads

Having a bit of a problem getting them back in. The pad away from the piston rotates down on the bolt as if there's nothing to keep it up on the front end. The owners manual says "Check that leaf spring (5) in the brake caliper and sliding plate (6) in the brake caliper are seated correctly." The picture next to the words shows the leaf spring and sliding plate. But I don't see a sliding plate in my brake caliper. Just the leaf spring which is positioned properly. I can't find this "sliding plate" in the spare parts manual, nor did anything fall out when I removed the pads.
But I can't get the referenced pad to stay put, up in the caliper. I'm obviously missing something. Help.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:37 PM   #7589
dad2bike
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If you spread the caliper all the way out there is a small gap that the pad can drop thru. I had this happen to me.
With the wheel off you can put the pad back into the groove. Push on the brakes a bit to put the caliper close enough to keep them in before putting the wheel on. Wheel still on takes pulling that PITA pin to get the pads off. Then put back on.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:40 PM   #7590
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post

I also slotted the forward airbox mount tabs so I can remove the airbox without pulling the Rally tanks, which included cutting up a engineered design..... works better now with better engineering

This sounds interesting, do you have any pictures?
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