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Old 11-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #751
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
First I've heard of this. Are we talking imminent failure or just keep an eye on it?
Thanks, jeff

The question would be how to keep an eye on it. If your impeller stops turning you have the issue of the water in your engine getting hotter and hotter while the water in the radiator is getting cooler and cooler and then the chance the cool engine water may suddenly meet the hot engine.

If that's what happened with your bike Seth I'm betting Andrew stopped pretty fast when he noticed which is actually a good reflection on his character borrowing your bike and all.

With my bike somehow pieces of the bearing got inside the shaft. I had the 08 with the bigger speedo/gauges of which I had replaced 3X but at the same time I would awhile before filing a new claim. Most of the time I could't read my gauge which was true of the time the water pump bearing failed.
I'd really like to see the engine run cooler than it does and more than just having the fan kick on earlier. A ways back I talked with Charlie Rosso from team rally pan am about a larger radiator they had made... It was long enough ago I forget what came of that...
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Old 11-05-2011, 11:41 AM   #752
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ridepjride screwed with this post 12-13-2011 at 12:07 PM
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:08 PM   #753
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@ RideJP -- does that explain the mixed oil & coolant? I don't know the guts of a 690 that well. Ask me about the guts of a DRz, however...
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:26 PM   #754
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:48 AM   #755
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Accelerator Module

As promised, feedback on the A/M:

Installation: Its essentially plug and play. Decent instruction were included. However, I had to raise the air box (which is pretty much par for the course on the 690) to get enough space to unplug the connector. I did not do a 15min rest after fitting in order to compare apples with apples.

Richer Mixture: You can smell the fact that the mixture is richer while is idling. I don't have a cat in the slip-on.

Temps: Much improved. I was going to get the after-market fan switch this summer as I live in the Kalahari and the bike has always been running hot, even in the winter. The most bars I've seen afetr fitting the A/M is 4, with 3 being the norm. Even while doing the 15 min reset this morning, it only went up to 6 bars. Previously, it would hit 7 bars at 7min and then in and out of the fan the whole time. This effect makes it worthwhile for me already.

Snatchy Throttle: I feel the least improvement in this area. There is a slight improvement, but nothing spectacular. The one area where its better, is when balancing the bike in a drift along a long corner (dirt road). It doesn't pitch anymore when tiny adjustments are made. However, coming of the power and then on again, is still funky.

Stalling: My bike was really bad in this area. I would get 3 or 4 stalls a ride when doing jeep or single track. I am able to induce a stall by running to almost no RPM in 3rd gear then rapidly opening and closing it. No stalls in normal running. You can sometimes hear it starting to spit prior to a flame-out but then it pulls through. It will idle up a slight incline with a closed throttle, something it never did before.

Testing Conditions: Its end of spring/early summer, so conditions change quite a bit. Hottest test was 40C (about 104F for the less developed), most rides in the vicinity of 27 - 28C (80F). I did not ride any tar, it was either gravel, single track or dunes.

Supplier: SchlowyCustom Motorcycles in South Africa (www.schlowycustoms.com) provided me with the test unit on a no-cure-no-pay basis. I have no affiliation with them. You might be able to save some money if you're in Australia or Nieu Zeeland for instance by ordering from them as far as postage is concerned.

Bottom Line: It will not replace a Vortex for solving the funky throttle, but it cures stalling and over-heating without a doubt in my mind. However, the A/M runs at 1.4% of a new 690R in South Africa while a Vortex would work out at 7.1%. I'm keeping mine.
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:30 PM   #756
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so does tunecu software, free, and a lot more and versatile.
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:58 PM   #757
Seth S
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Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
so does tunecu software, free, and a lot more and versatile.
you need the connection cable and the software is either inexpensive or free...i have only used a friends. it works well at tuning the stock computers.
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:24 PM   #758
Seth S
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I started to play with Crankshaft's bike today. The problem at the moment is that it wont run. He had some problems with the bike that appeared with both the stock computer and with the Vortex. We have discussed ideas concerning the coil, wiring harness, fuel pump, injector, throttle body etc etc.

So first thing I did today was put a plastic connector in place of the quick disconnect which has been removed from the bike. I have a 10 micron purolator filter on order which should be here tomorrow P/N F29160. Next I turned the key and watched fuel dump out of the end of the injector at the throttle body....bad O-ring...but Crank informed me that he had a different one on there because the original was damaged...so nothing there. I then pulled the injector out of the throttle body and aimed it into a clear plastic jug. When I turned the key on I noticed 2 things. First there was a steady dribble of fuel coming out of the injector into the jug. second..every few ignition switch turnings the bike would not come on.

So...I immediately thought there was a problem with the injector and that there was a bad connection somewhere. I have yet to solve the injector issue but I think I found the key on dead bike problem and that is the ignition switch itself. I can turn the key on and if the bike doesn't light up I can wiggle the key and it comes to life. It occurs to me that if the switch is bad and you are riding it could turn on and off occasionally due to vibration which could wreak havoc with the computer. So short term I'll probably put a toggle on there instead of the switch.

So next step is to get the new injector O ring and go from there.
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:31 PM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I started to play with Crankshaft's bike today. The problem at the moment is that it wont run. He had some problems with the bike that appeared with both the stock computer and with the Vortex. We have discussed ideas concerning the coil, wiring harness, fuel pump, injector, throttle body etc etc.

So first thing I did today was put a plastic connector in place of the quick disconnect which has been removed from the bike. I have a 10 micron purolator filter on order which should be here tomorrow P/N F29160. Next I turned the key and watched fuel dump out of the end of the injector at the throttle body....bad O-ring...but Crank informed me that he had a different one on there because the original was damaged...so nothing there. I then pulled the injector out of the throttle body and aimed it into a clear plastic jug. When I turned the key on I noticed 2 things. First there was a steady dribble of fuel coming out of the injector into the jug. second..every few ignition switch turnings the bike would not come on.

So...I immediately thought there was a problem with the injector and that there was a bad connection somewhere. I have yet to solve the injector issue but I think I found the key on dead bike problem and that is the ignition switch itself. I can turn the key on and if the bike doesn't light up I can wiggle the key and it comes to life. It occurs to me that if the switch is bad and you are riding it could turn on and off occasionally due to vibration which could wreak havoc with the computer. So short term I'll probably put a toggle on there instead of the switch.

So next step is to get the new injector O ring and go from there.
I have a whole bag of Viton O-rings that work well if you can't get the OEM. I've been waiting 3 months for my injector and related parts.....
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:07 PM   #760
Gros Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I have yet to solve the injector issue but I think I found the key on dead bike problem and that is the ignition switch itself. I can turn the key on and if the bike doesn't light up I can wiggle the key and it comes to life ...
WHAT ????

We've been reading Cranky for months - euh !? no ... years !!! - and your telling us the ignition switch may be the problem ???

This would be totaly hilarious ...

This summer, my bike behaved very weird when it stalled. I turned the key off then on to start it while going down a long and stiff slope. You would not believe the sound the motor did for 10 seconds. Like very bad backfires. And the FI indicator lighted up. I turned the key off then on again, but I let much more time before starting the engine. Things went ok afterward. So yes if the switch loses contact very shortly, the injection can go wild.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
I'd really like to see the engine run cooler than it does and more than just having the fan kick on earlier. A ways back I talked with Charlie Rosso from team rally pan am about a larger radiator they had made... It was long enough ago I forget what came of that...
Put PROPYLENE-GLYCOL instead of the normal ETHYLENE GLYCOL in your radiator. Your motor will run 30 to 50 degrees cooler. Tested and approved by myself. http://engineice.com/ Caterpillar has it too. Both are not compatible, and you will have to flush and wash your coolant circuit. I tell you. IT WORKS GREAT.

Paul Jr 8
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:10 PM   #761
Michelangelo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorich View Post
I've been using these for most of this season. I really like them. Very comfortable for standing and they are not in the way when seated. However, they do look like ping pong paddles mounted on the bike.

I ended up ordering these in silver to match the stock pegs. They were only
$85. And yes $150-200 like the CJ's are a ridiculous and stupid ripoff.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:15 PM   #762
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Ryman,
I forgot who made those for you? Cost and time to receive?
I'm going to try the other ones out first, the bigger platform might work better for me than just the wider only ones like you have. I typically ride with soft sole combat or assualt boots so without a steel shank need a more solid/fatter platform.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryman View Post
I've used these...they are great.
These are better.
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:09 PM   #763
Maurizio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
the bigger platform might work better for me than just the wider only ones like you have.


Quote:
I typically ride with soft sole combat or assualt boots so without a steel shank need a more solid/fatter platform.
If I were you I'd rather use some technical offroad motorcycle boots.
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:22 AM   #764
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
WHAT ????

We've been reading Cranky for months - euh !? no ... years !!! - and your telling us the ignition switch may be the problem ???

This would be totaly hilarious ...
Everything is simple in retrospect. KTM acted like a I was a dummy when I couldn't figure out the problem with the 2nd engine on my bike. I struggled with it, the local dealer had it for 3 months that time, specialist came out and were stumped and finally they flew it to Austria. Had a size "A" piston in a size "B" bore. (Of course I had no clue there were 2 sizes and that came from a replacement engine that they shipped the entire engine out.)

A better example is my bike went thru almost the same process with them trying to figure out a fault code after fixing everything else. (A bad fuel pump they fixed but they were still getting a code.) Specialists flew out and looked at it and 6 weeks later found the cause and were furious with me. The map selector was on the "bad fuel" setting.
When the fuel pump went bad and I was waiting for a tow I was naturally playing with all kinds of things. I had just been in Mexico and since the fuel pump was only intermitantly out I thought maybe that was it and tried flippng the switch. Didn't think it would do the trick but what the heck... when you're in those situations you try anything. I even listen to the girl with barbie dolls who says, "Hey Mister - have you checked your tires?" when I'm frusterated enough

It's like watching a complicated murder case solved in a movie; in order to shorten the movie they don't give you the million dead end leads. I remember when they interviewed the flight instructor of Mohamed Attah who flew one of the jets into the twin towers. He said something like, "he [Mhd. Atah] didn't seem that interested in landing on manual - just turning." They played that line over and over again making that flight instructor look like either an absolute moron or an actual accomplice. They interviewed people about it and everyone thought he was Sherlock Holmes and ridiculed the US's intelligence "Duhhhhh!! Anyone who shows more interest in learning how to turn than land in manual override is obviously planning on blowing up America! What more did the CIA need????"

FWIW Seth I had a bad ignition switch like that on my old '98 LC4. It would cut out while riding for just a fraction of a second and then come back on but it was so short it took forever to find it. Eventually some Malaysian mechanics replaced with a KLR ignition.
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:25 AM   #765
rickypanecatyl
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Regarding the waterpump bearing I'm surprised there is not a new part #. When they replaced my engine back in 2009 KTM emphasize that that particular bearing was not a KTM part and they now realized it was sub standard.

I don't know... is it possible to fix/upgrade a part and keep the same part #?
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