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Old 03-21-2013, 05:48 AM   #7891
LethPhaos
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Belgistan
Oddometer: 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
You do know that the bolt is left hand thread correct?
I had to find that out the hard way... Broke tools and bolts, and had to redrill and retap the footrest bracket to be able to re-use it.
Another disadvantage of the setup (2008-2009) is that when the rear brake pedal joints get's dirty, it will tighten the bolt, making it very difficult to remove later.
The newer rear brake pedal (I think 2010 and on) uses a different system, still left hand thread but with bushings to prevent this problem.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:50 AM   #7892
bayarearider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
You do know that the bolt is left hand thread correct?
No I didnt until now, but the problem at the moment is to get the broken screw out of the groove on the foot rest bracket. I will try to post some pics soon.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:07 AM   #7893
It'sNotTheBike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
No I didnt until now, but the problem at the moment is to get the broken screw out of the groove on the foot rest bracket. I will try to post some pics soon.

1) If you have not yet done so, use heat to break the bond of the
OEM thread locking compound. 300 degrees F. for 5 minutes should
do nicely. You can use a heat gun or a propane torch or a household
oven, all that matters is to get the thread locking compound molecular
bonds to break free.

2) If you can find some Kroil, use it on the threads of the fastener you want
to remove, after you have applied the heat. There is no penetrating oil
which works as well as Kroil. Ask any old-time aircraft mechanic about
Kroil, it is amazing stuff.


Kroil can be seen here :

http://www.kanolabs.com/



.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:09 AM   #7894
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Originally Posted by JustBob
Well then you've got a light bike...sorta. My GS's are both 475. The Ducati a bit less. All more than a KTM 500 or the 690. So your 425 lb Gixxer is a pig or a fairy, depending. It's all relative....my only point.

************************************************** ****


Yep....my GS is a Fairy Pig:





But when I get on my 690....it is a Rocket Pig:




And when I get on my 450, it is a nuclear pig:




Just love riding those pigs








All you need is a Harley and you'd have an Old School Pig!

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Old 03-21-2013, 09:41 AM   #7895
bayarearider
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotTheBike View Post
1) If you have not yet done so, use heat to break the bond of the
OEM thread locking compound. 300 degrees F. for 5 minutes should
do nicely. You can use a heat gun or a propane torch or a household
oven, all that matters is to get the thread locking compound molecular
bonds to break free.

2) If you can find some Kroil, use it on the threads of the fastener you want
to remove, after you have applied the heat. There is no penetrating oil
which works as well as Kroil. Ask any old-time aircraft mechanic about
Kroil, it is amazing stuff.


Kroil can be seen here :

http://www.kanolabs.com/



.
Thanks for the feedback. Just ordered Kroil. Hopefully this should do it.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:51 AM   #7896
dunefreak
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Location: Henderson, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
any positive/negative comments about the cleanspeed brake pedal ?

http://www.cleanspeedeng.com/Brake%20Pedal.htm

cheaper than the RR version and different milling design.
I installed a clean speed lever. It's a nice piece of work and is very stout. Nothing bad to say about it and it's cheaper than the RR. I think they're out of AZ. Shipping to me was only like $6.

http://my2wheels.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=148
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #7897
fluff34567
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Location: choco land AKA switzerland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
Have it and it's awesome. I've crashed on that side since installing it and it held up beautifully. I'll take this opportunity to remind you of the reverse threaded bolt that holds the lever on.

Jeff

yep cheers.. i read the destructions
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
I installed a clean speed lever. It's a nice piece of work and is very stout. Nothing bad to say about it and it's cheaper than the RR. I think they're out of AZ. Shipping to me was only like $6.

http://my2wheels.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=148

ordered the lever 3 days ago, it arrived at my friends in NY this morning and I should have it in my grubby hands in zurich tomorrow morning....
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:12 PM   #7898
MeinMotorrad
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Location: In between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
Oddometer: 916
Stuck nuts

Quote:
Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Just ordered Kroil. Hopefully this should do it.
Anyone interested in freeing up seized/rusted bolts etc. may like to use the tried and trusted 50/50 mix of Acetone and power steering/auto box fluid (TQF etc.). Hell of a lot cheaper than that Kroil stuff
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:19 PM   #7899
motoged
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Oh.....look Mom....a Pirate Pig:

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Old 03-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #7900
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Oh.....look Mom....a Pirate Pig:

Looks like Gary Busey
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:03 AM   #7901
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Has anybody made up a lexan rock guard for their headlight?
I run them on my RFS bikes with the super 3M-Lock to hold in place.

I have the TT flat version with brackets on my 950A. Not impressed with that design.
I have the 2008 headlight. I was thinking of cutting out a piece to fit and heat bending the center crease. Anybody already done that? Happy with the results?
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:08 AM   #7902
JustBob
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Location: Young Harris, GA
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Maybe best thing to do is send an e-mail to Richard Muurling at Vortex in Australia with your question and all the details you mentioned here. He may take awhile to reply but he always gives informative answers.

richard@vortexcdi.com

If all the maps are for an open air box then the bike would run rich with the foam air filters.

The last option would be to send the Vortex ECU to Mike Tolle in California to get proper maps for your bike setup. He charged me $100 to do that so not cheap.
I contacted both parties and both were very helpful. Looks like I need to send this unit, which is for a 2011 and not a 2010, and have it reprogrammed. Mike in California can do it for $200 plus shipping so I'll do that when I can. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:17 AM   #7903
Velociraptor
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Location: Seattle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
I contacted both parties and both were very helpful. Looks like I need to send this unit, which is for a 2011 and not a 2010, and have it reprogrammed. Mike in California can do it for $200 plus shipping so I'll do that when I can. Thanks for the tip!
Yikes, $200? Maybe it was cheaper for me because I bought the unit. Anyway once you get that done hopefully your fuel mileage will improve. Hmmm. I am wondering if there is any difference between a 2009 and 2010? Probably not. I was wondering because this month Richard sent Mike a custom map set for me which had an economy map included so I guess Mike still has that file. My bike is a 2009. You might ask them about that. I have not tested the economy map so have no idea the mileage it gives.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:22 AM   #7904
JustBob
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Location: Young Harris, GA
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Yes, I was kinda surprised by the cost, but Richard wants 200 Australian and then the shipping is quite a bit more. This unit came with the bike when I bought it so I didn't know what I had until I told Richard the full nomenclature and he knew right away what it is. So, I suspect there are differences year to year, open vs closed air box, Motard vs Enduro. Anyway, in the meantime I'm gonna try riding it with the X10 set to 2-2-2 and see if there's a difference and then send it to Mike when I can. Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:52 AM   #7905
motoged
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Location: Kamloops, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Has anybody made up a lexan rock guard for their headlight?
I run them on my RFS bikes with the super 3M-Lock to hold in place.

I have the TT flat version with brackets on my 950A. Not impressed with that design.
I have the 2008 headlight. I was thinking of cutting out a piece to fit and heat bending the center crease. Anybody already done that? Happy with the results?

I have a Cyclops 7" H4 on my 690....a fellow 690 guy in Marysville WA does as well and he has reportedly fabbed a lexan cover....I can't divulge his name at this time as he has promised me one, and if I tell this list that Uller has made this promise, he will be flooded with more scroungers looking for free deals (I might have to trade him something for his work)....

So ....I haven't seen the product yet but he knows what he is doing and I am looking forward to the smokin' deal....
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