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Old 03-22-2013, 11:27 AM   #7906
Seth S
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pretty sure he already passed that tree
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:59 PM   #7907
Hoots
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pretty sure he already passed that tree
He'd make a good goldfish ...
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:45 AM   #7908
fluff34567
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Got my cleanspeedeng.com brake lever.

From Arizona to Switzerland in 2.5 days :eek:





Now a trip to the anodising shop for some bling

sent using my fingers and voodoo magic.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:42 AM   #7909
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Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
Got my cleanspeedeng.com brake lever.

From Arizona to Switzerland in 2.5 days :eek:





Now a trip to the anodising shop for some bling

sent using my fingers and voodoo magic.
You’re quite possibly the first person to have had a piece of crafted metalwork imported into Switzerland from Arizona ...
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:47 AM   #7910
Bill the Bong
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Yes, I was kinda surprised by the cost, but Richard wants 200 Australian and then the shipping is quite a bit more. This unit came with the bike when I bought it so I didn't know what I had until I told Richard the full nomenclature and he knew right away what it is. So, I suspect there are differences year to year, open vs closed air box, Motard vs Enduro. Anyway, in the meantime I'm gonna try riding it with the X10 set to 2-2-2 and see if there's a difference and then send it to Mike when I can. Thanks for your help.
What map are you actually using. Usually the 1st 5 loaded are for open airbox and the last 5 for standard airbox. I'm not sure that even going 222 for an open a/b map will make it lean enough for use with a closed airbox.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:04 AM   #7911
JustBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
What map are you actually using. Usually the 1st 5 loaded are for open airbox and the last 5 for standard airbox. I'm not sure that even going 222 for an open a/b map will make it lean enough for use with a closed airbox.
What's an "open airbox"? Does it have a filter? My bike has the stock cover with inch holes drilled in the top and foam filters.

Anyway, this Vortex unit is for "Motard/Enduro-Open Airbox" with a raised rev limit to 8700rpm. It came set to X10 #1 which is a Power Map. I've tried one of the Traction/Endouro Maps and like the initial throttle but don't like the over-all power characteristics. Seems to run out of steam too soon. So I'll try various Power Maps and see how I like the ride. I'm looking for good spin the tire power with soft initial throttle.

Should I get one of those open airboxs? What do they look like? I'm not gonna go without an air filter.

Maybe I need to just send this to Mike Tolle and have it made right, but to be able to ride the bike that means re-installing the stock ECU and if I do that I have to mess with the Throttle Stop and Idle Speed Adjustment?
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:52 AM   #7912
Velociraptor
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Older Vortex ECUs had either open air box or closed air box maps, not 5 of each.

Open airbox usually does not have the lid and has either a foam or pleated style filter. There is still a filter but much less restriction to air flow.

Closed airbox is the stocker. I run closed air box with foam filters. I kept closed airbox because I do a lot of wet off road riding so need the water protection.

Rally Raid open airbox filter setup:
http://www.ktmtwins.com/rally-raid-ktm-690-filter-kit
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:19 AM   #7913
Bill the Bong
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kalahari South Africa
Oddometer: 953
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
What's an "open airbox"? Does it have a filter? My bike has the stock cover with inch holes drilled in the top and foam filters.

Anyway, this Vortex unit is for "Motard/Enduro-Open Airbox" with a raised rev limit to 8700rpm. It came set to X10 #1 which is a Power Map. I've tried one of the Traction/Endouro Maps and like the initial throttle but don't like the over-all power characteristics. Seems to run out of steam too soon. So I'll try various Power Maps and see how I like the ride. I'm looking for good spin the tire power with soft initial throttle.

Should I get one of those open airboxs? What do they look like? I'm not gonna go without an air filter.

Maybe I need to just send this to Mike Tolle and have it made right, but to be able to ride the bike that means re-installing the stock ECU and if I do that I have to mess with the Throttle Stop and Idle Speed Adjustment?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Older Vortex ECUs had either open air box or closed air box maps, not 5 of each.

Open airbox usually does not have the lid and has either a foam or pleated style filter. There is still a filter but much less restriction to air flow.

Closed airbox is the stocker. I run closed air box with foam filters. I kept closed airbox because I do a lot of wet off road riding so need the water protection.

Rally Raid open airbox filter setup:
http://www.ktmtwins.com/rally-raid-ktm-690-filter-kit
I would suggests trying map 0 (std OEM map) first before sending it away. Trim to 555. If it's still rich, then something else is wrong. If it works OK, but is lean (as its meant to do with the standard map and holes in the cover), just trim to 666 or 777 and ride it for a while. I would personally duct tape over the holes for this test.
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:22 AM   #7914
Bill the Bong
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Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
...re-installing the stock ECU and if I do that I have to mess with the Throttle Stop and Idle Speed Adjustment?
It will idle slightly high with the throttle stop correctly set for the Vortex when the OEM stuff is back in. This might actually cure the stalling that people are complaining about..
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:54 PM   #7915
JustBob
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OK...good info from all. I'll try the 0-555 and see how it goes. Can't believe I didn't think of that.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:56 PM   #7916
rdkyote
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter;20963695 Please pardon the very messy state of my bikeshop, I've got issues with two other bikes and I haven't been very good about keeping the place in it's usual state of (reasonable) cleanliness.

[IMG
http://shiloh115.smugmug.com/Other/KTM-690/i-S2kQJvR/0/M/P1010040-M.jpg[/IMG]

lmao yeah... forgiven.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:18 PM   #7917
JustBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
It will idle slightly high with the throttle stop correctly set for the Vortex when the OEM stuff is back in. This might actually cure the stalling that people are complaining about..
Mine doesn't stall, so at least I don't have that to deal with. Anyway, I tried some various settings. Here's a summary.
23Mar13. Tried several MAPS today.
6-222. PowerMap2. Too snappy/abrupt. This one gets a D+
2-222. Traction/Enduro Map1. Less power, smooth delivery, runs out of power at RPM, good down low. 28miles/.93gal=30mpg. C-
4-222. TorqueMap1. Good power, soft throttle. 25mi/0.75g=33mpg. B
0-555. Standard R Enduro Map. OK power, slightly abrupt throttle. 25mi/.70g=35.7mpg. C+
I can smell the rich exhaust in my clothes after the above miles. Need to try 4-111 or even 4-112 where 2 is for Hi or Carby Main Jet.
Wish I had access to a sniffer to see how lean/rich I'm getting. But the poor mileage and the smell tell me I'm still rich.
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #7918
ramjet
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Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
You’re quite possibly the first person to have had a piece of crafted metalwork imported into Switzerland from Arizona ...
That would be so much sweeter if it were titanium.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:11 AM   #7919
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Mine doesn't stall, so at least I don't have that to deal with. Anyway, I tried some various settings. Here's a summary.
23Mar13. Tried several MAPS today.
6-222. PowerMap2. Too snappy/abrupt. This one gets a D+
2-222. Traction/Enduro Map1. Less power, smooth delivery, runs out of power at RPM, good down low. 28miles/.93gal=30mpg. C-
4-222. TorqueMap1. Good power, soft throttle. 25mi/0.75g=33mpg. B
0-555. Standard R Enduro Map. OK power, slightly abrupt throttle. 25mi/.70g=35.7mpg. C+
I can smell the rich exhaust in my clothes after the above miles. Need to try 4-111 or even 4-112 where 2 is for Hi or Carby Main Jet.
Wish I had access to a sniffer to see how lean/rich I'm getting. But the poor mileage and the smell tell me I'm still rich.
I'm guessing that you are overfueling. The Vortex disables the lambda sensor. So either the fuel pressure regulator or injector could be to blame. Maybe the previous owner tried to clean the injector like you would clean a jet. Before you mess with anything else replace the spark plug and check the coil connections to ensure that you are getting optimum spark.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:52 AM   #7920
Bumpaman
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Clutch safety switch question

Hi all. A friend of mine has a 2008 690E and on a ride in Utah last year the bike developed an intermittent problem where after the engine had been shut off it would not start again. We figured it was probably one of the safety switches, either kickstand or clutch. We started at the clutch safety switch and after pulling it apart and cleaning it the bike started right up. Problem solved..maybe not. The bike did this again during the ride and we employed the same fix with good enough results to finish the ride. When my friend got home he had another similiar incident so his mechanic cut the safety switch and jumpered it to remove it from the system and as we know from other posts, this misguided shortcut caused other problems. On the advice of the inmates here, the old switch was spliced back in and the bike is running fine. My friend is certain that Murphy's Law is going to strike again and leave him stranded out in the pickertoolies. With my keen sense of the obvious, I suggested a replacement of the old clutch safety switch with a new one, but I would like to solicit advice from the experience of everyone here if this would be the right fix? The previous owner has told him that the kickstand safety had been removed and replaced with the KTM kit. Is there something else that he should be looking at here also? Thanks for the help.
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