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Old 03-25-2013, 02:36 PM   #7906
dad2bike
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I'm going to pull my clutch cover and inspect the shifting linkage. I'm thinking the PO may have abused this bike more than I thought. The manual is indicating special pins needed to pull the clutch. Really?
Input from those that have pulled the clutch.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:48 PM   #7907
masterreset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpaman View Post
Hi all. A friend of mine has a 2008 690E and on a ride in Utah last year the bike developed an intermittent problem where after the engine had been shut off it would not start again. We figured it was probably one of the safety switches, either kickstand or clutch. We started at the clutch safety switch and after pulling it apart and cleaning it the bike started right up. Problem solved..maybe not. The bike did this again during the ride and we employed the same fix with good enough results to finish the ride. When my friend got home he had another similiar incident so his mechanic cut the safety switch and jumpered it to remove it from the system and as we know from other posts, this misguided shortcut caused other problems. On the advice of the inmates here, the old switch was spliced back in and the bike is running fine. My friend is certain that Murphy's Law is going to strike again and leave him stranded out in the pickertoolies. With my keen sense of the obvious, I suggested a replacement of the old clutch safety switch with a new one, but I would like to solicit advice from the experience of everyone here if this would be the right fix? The previous owner has told him that the kickstand safety had been removed and replaced with the KTM kit. Is there something else that he should be looking at here also? Thanks for the help.
Even when your clutch switch is broken, the motor should start when in neutral. When the kickstand switch is broken, the motor will start in neutral or pulled clutch and dies when you shift in 1st gear. When it doesn't start in neutral anyway, you most likely have a different problem.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #7908
Velociraptor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I'm going to pull my clutch cover and inspect the shifting linkage. I'm thinking the PO may have abused this bike more than I thought. The manual is indicating special pins needed to pull the clutch. Really?
Input from those that have pulled the clutch.
Probably someone on this forum wrote this, but I do not know who:

"yeah, the manual is kind of bogus except for the wear limit specifications. It would have you removing the entire clutch pack in the basket. Way more work, no benefit if replacing the plates is what you are in there for.

Here's what I did:

1. unbolt and move foot peg bracket and rear brake to the side as a unit
2. drain oil
3. remove clutch cover, mark top crown orientation with sharpie
4. insert (4) M5x40 screws finger tight into clutch pack
5. remove the four main 10mm clutch bolts with springs
6. unscrew the four M5 screws you just put in gradually releasing secondary spring (very light tension)
7. slide out clutch pack making note of sequence and such
8. replace parts as needed (soak new friction plates in oil overnight beforehand) and reassemble the same way it came out

That's all there is to it. I'm screwing around or it would be a one hour job start to finish."


I have had my clutch apart a couple of times. The M5x40 screws replace the special pins, but I never used those either. Not sure why they are needed as I did not have any trouble removing or installing the clutch without them. Maybe my clutch is going to blow but I did a week in Baja and 1,000 miles after that and the clutch is fine. BTW if you can find some way to lean your bike way over on the left side you do not even have to drain the oil. I leaned my bike over on a stack of old mc tires. This is to remove the clutch plates, not the basket.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:23 PM   #7909
shipwrek12001
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Location: Ottawa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
yes, it's been doing it since I bought it brand new. I always just thought it was the cap. Here's my original post....





I was going to try that and bleed it out really good with that bleeder when I fill it up. I checked and the oil is good.
my 08 had the same problem, it blew the water pump seal, it wasn't until we were into the headgasket we figured that out... so I got it all...headgs, wp seal, rad cap and thermostate.

its fixed!!
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:33 PM   #7910
dad2bike
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Probably someone on this forum wrote this, but I do not know who:

"yeah, the manual is kind of bogus except for the wear limit specifications. It would have you removing the entire clutch pack in the basket. Way more work, no benefit if replacing the plates is what you are in there for.

Here's what I did:

1. unbolt and move foot peg bracket and rear brake to the side as a unit
2. drain oil
3. remove clutch cover, mark top crown orientation with sharpie
4. insert (4) M5x40 screws finger tight into clutch pack
5. remove the four main 10mm clutch bolts with springs
6. unscrew the four M5 screws you just put in gradually releasing secondary spring (very light tension)
7. slide out clutch pack making note of sequence and such
8. replace parts as needed (soak new friction plates in oil overnight beforehand) and reassemble the same way it came out

That's all there is to it. I'm screwing around or it would be a one hour job start to finish."


I have had my clutch apart a couple of times. The M5x40 screws replace the special pins, but I never used those either. Not sure why they are needed as I did not have any trouble removing or installing the clutch without them. Maybe my clutch is going to blow but I did a week in Baja and 1,000 miles after that and the clutch is fine. BTW if you can find some way to lean your bike way over on the left side you do not even have to drain the oil. I leaned my bike over on a stack of old mc tires. This is to remove the clutch plates, not the basket.
Thanks, very helpful. I'm very familiar with working on my KTM's on their side. . I guess I should look for some M5 screws in my box of hardware.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:34 PM   #7911
dunefreak
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Location: Henderson, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
my 08 had the same problem, it blew the water pump seal, it wasn't until we were into the headgasket we figured that out... so I got it all...headgs, wp seal, rad cap and thermostate.

its fixed!!
So what exactly was the cause of failure? The wp seal?
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #7912
shipwrek12001
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Location: Ottawa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
So what exactly was the cause of failure? The wp seal?
this might be a streech, but I believe crank case pressure was getting in the water pump seal or headgasket. . putting air in the system killing the circulation, eventually over heating.. then puking rad fuild..

when we took it apart it realy didn't look like the gasket was leaking. so we auto went for the pump seal. there was a hint of water in the oil, dark grey vs black oil... since i was into the man for lots o money, rad cap and thermostate was a natural next move while we were there..

in short water pump seal, I "think"
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:51 PM   #7913
dunefreak
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Well just now took a look at it after yesterday's ride and the radiator is completely full and the overflow tank is still about 1/2 full. I'm going to drain down the overflow to about 1/4 tank or less and see if it continues to happen. It might have just been overfull this whole time and I kept topping it off continuing the process every ride.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:23 AM   #7914
Xico
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690 Duke Tripmaster Switch

Yesterday I went to Hauthaler, the KTM Dealer in Salzburg (Austria), and found a nice tripmaster switch with 2 push buttons for the 690 Duke.





I asked them to install it on my 2011 690 Enduro R, but when they tried, the connector doesn't match. They are the same color, and i think also the same size and also 4 pin. But the connector on the bike and on the switch are both male.

Does anyone know if it's only a matter of finding a female connector for one of the sides, and if it would work that way?

And one more doubt... anyone knows the name of that kind of connectors?
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:05 AM   #7915
Chris 690R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
I'm having an issue with coolant venting out of my overflow bottle tube. I already replaced the radiator cap and made sure the tank wasn't overfull. I seem to remember reading some guys were having this problem. Mine is a 2012 and has been doing this since new. Any ideas? I'm tired of coming home after a ride with coolant all over my right boot.
Mine does the same thing! Let me know when you find the issue. I figured it was just how it is. I have already had to fill the rad overflow tank as it ran dry after 500 km from new? Normal?

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Old 03-26-2013, 01:59 PM   #7916
Noyah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xico View Post
Yesterday I went to Hauthaler, the KTM Dealer in Salzburg (Austria), and found a nice tripmaster switch with 2 push buttons for the 690 Duke.





I asked them to install it on my 2011 690 Enduro R, but when they tried, the connector doesn't match. They are the same color, and i think also the same size and also 4 pin. But the connector on the bike and on the switch are both male.

Does anyone know if it's only a matter of finding a female connector for one of the sides, and if it would work that way?

And one more doubt... anyone knows the name of that kind of connectors?
Maby the exc tripmasterswitch is the one you looking for?

54814073000
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:48 PM   #7917
Head2Wind
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Location: NorthWet Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xico View Post
Yesterday I went to Hauthaler, the KTM Dealer in Salzburg (Austria), and found a nice tripmaster switch with 2 push buttons for the 690 Duke.





I asked them to install it on my 2011 690 Enduro R, but when they tried, the connector doesn't match. They are the same color, and i think also the same size and also 4 pin. But the connector on the bike and on the switch are both male.

Does anyone know if it's only a matter of finding a female connector for one of the sides, and if it would work that way?

And one more doubt... anyone knows the name of that kind of connectors?
Do you know what the KTM part number for the switch is? If so, can you post it? If you have detailed pictures of the connector I might be able to help with a source for the alternative connector gender

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Old 03-27-2013, 01:09 AM   #7918
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Yes, 54814073000 is the right one.

But it is useless for rally riding, you cannot adjust it while riding.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:14 AM   #7919
fluff34567
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Location: choco land AKA switzerland
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Are there any problems with wolfman bags fitting onto touratwat racks? Or do you need to weld loops onto the racks?

sent using my fingers and voodoo magic.

fluff34567 screwed with this post 03-27-2013 at 03:32 AM
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:06 AM   #7920
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puzzled

Ok, I'll ask at the risk of ridicule. What is a tripmaster switch and what does it do mon?
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