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Old 11-07-2011, 03:08 PM   #781
Dazed Productions
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On the subject of SAS removal, I have found tens of sources of LC8 SAS blanking plates, but not a single LC4 blanking plate. No one that sells LC8 plates advertises that you can use one on the LC4. Anyone know anyone selling an LC4 plate??
In response to previous, main reason to dump SAS is to get rid of unnecessary junk that clutters up the engine.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:58 PM   #782
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Honestly, I hope it is as simple as the ignition switch, I tore that apart also at one time but could never pin point the issue. It was so weird and intermittent...... I hope you're right Seth, I really do. Worst case scenario, I took care of some known problems like the FP and the painted grounding points. I also picked up an extra injector and replaced the silly inline fuel filter...win win I think.

On a side note, I was able to take a much needed break on Sunday and ride a Harescramble. The Berg worked very well, so fuel injection is certainly a winner if done properly.
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:34 PM   #783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazed Productions View Post
On the subject of SAS removal, I have found tens of sources of LC8 SAS blanking plates, but not a single LC4 blanking plate. No one that sells LC8 plates advertises that you can use one on the LC4. Anyone know anyone selling an LC4 plate??
In response to previous, main reason to dump SAS is to get rid of unnecessary junk that clutters up the engine.
I removed my SAS valve and hoses. Stuck a rubber plug into the SAS half of the crank vent on top of the valve cover. The other hose goes into the plastic trap on the right side of the frame. Left that alone as venting is req'd. Place a resistor into the wire connector to fool the EI; no fault. Total cost $3.
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:43 PM   #784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
I removed my SAS valve and hoses. Stuck a rubber plug into the SAS half of the crank vent on top of the valve cover. The other hose goes into the plastic trap on the right side of the frame. Left that alone as venting is req'd. Place a resistor into the wire connector to fool the EI; no fault. Total cost $3.
OK now I'm a little worried! Are you saying that you need to leave that vent open? I haven't ridden the bike yet and don't want to blow out a gasket. All the how-to for the SAS have bad links. Prob in the megathread that got nuked.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:14 PM   #785
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Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
OK now I'm a little worried! Are you saying that you need to leave that vent open? I haven't ridden the bike yet and don't want to blow out a gasket. All the how-to for the SAS have bad links. Prob in the megathread that got nuked.
Yes, the hose that connects to the plastic trap molded into the right side trim needs to remain functional. It is a crankcase breather. The second tube feeds the SAS and may be capped.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:16 PM   #786
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Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
OK now I'm a little worried! Are you saying that you need to leave that vent open? I haven't ridden the bike yet and don't want to blow out a gasket. All the how-to for the SAS have bad links. Prob in the megathread that got nuked.
Plug the top and leave the lower in place. Crankcase pressure will cause problems.

It sucks about our how-to getting nuked. Seems to have been the only complete version around. I got nothing but bits and pieces on a search.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:28 PM   #787
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If I were you I'd rather use some technical offroad motorcycle boots.
Maurizio, you are hilarious tonite ...


Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
Everything is simple in retrospect.
Ricky, you are hilarious too, but I'm not sure you are 100% aware of it. By the way, reading you tonite led me to think your lawyer gave you an "ok" to write again on this forum !!! Your experience is a library by itself. Always appreciated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Honestly, I hope it is as simple as the ignition switch.
Crank,
I realy hope it's that simple too !!! But then, when I have to manage a situation like this, (Oups !!! Have I just revealed it happens to me more then seldom, but a little less then often ???) I normaly run as fast as I can, and make sure my head hit the wall first ...

Paul Jr 8
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:03 PM   #788
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Originally Posted by gbx2001 View Post
I am looking for an assortment of KTM-style Torx headed cap screws (bolts) and nuts, spacers, washers etc. to compliment them. I have asked at some local bolt houses but have yet to see a kit containing a decent assortment with Torx heads.

At a local KTM dealer I recently saw an assortment for the SX and XC which appear to have some common sizes. Are there are any better nut and bolt kits out there (with Torx) for the 690R than this kit?

Thanks.
Try this: http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.co...463ac3751eaf38 that is the ktm specific kit with hex/torx heads on the hardware. The size of that kit is small enough to keep in your pack so a lost bolt won't leave you stranded or robbing from other parts of your bike. I've just been using hardware from their japanese dirtbike kit that I already had. They also have a larger KTM assortment http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.co...463ac3751eaf38

The Letter J screwed with this post 11-07-2011 at 08:12 PM
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:25 PM   #789
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Cyclebuy.com sells a nice Euro bolt kit in a small box for $20. Same as kit mentioned above.
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:15 PM   #790
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Originally Posted by Barman View Post
Plug the top and leave the lower in place. Crankcase pressure will cause problems.

It sucks about our how-to getting nuked. Seems to have been the only complete version around. I got nothing but bits and pieces on a search.
Thanks. The lower vent that comes out by the clutch is still hooked up and venting as usual The valve cover stuff is blocked off.
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:45 AM   #791
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I have heard about that cousing problems, i left the top vent in place as well. I dont know about the structure in the engine of the rear vent, but i can imagine there is some sort of an oil shield in the engine that includes the head, not oil tight, but first suction on that side. that situation would require seperate venting on the crank side, being on the head.

It's there for a reasond. I'd say, leave the head vent venting.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:50 AM   #792
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I have heard about that cousing problems, i left the top vent in place as well. I dont know about the structure in the engine of the rear vent, but i can imagine there is some sort of an oil shield in the engine that includes the head, not oil tight, but first suction on that side. that situation would require seperate venting on the crank side, being on the head.

It's there for a reasond. I'd say, leave the head vent venting.
That upper "vent" is part of the emissions control (SAS) and is actually a unidirectional reed valve. It doesn't release pressure, it's designed to let air in.

Just remove all of that clutter and plug it up. No issues. It really makes maintenance on the engine so much simpler.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:57 AM   #793
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Maurizio, you are hilarious tonite ...
Here in Italy we ain't have any reason to be hilarious these days, by no means, but we ought to be...

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Old 11-08-2011, 08:33 AM   #794
Sutherngintelmen
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Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
OK now I'm a little worried! Are you saying that you need to leave that vent open? I haven't ridden the bike yet and don't want to blow out a gasket. All the how-to for the SAS have bad links. Prob in the megathread that got nuked.
Anyone have a pic of which should be breathing?

I used the 'plug post' in mega thread and don't recall leaving anything that was not capped.
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:32 AM   #795
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Originally Posted by Maurizio View Post
Here in Italy we ain't have any reason to be hilarious these days, by no means, but we ought to be...

At least you are not Mauriziokas
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