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Old 03-25-2013, 11:21 AM   #7936
dunefreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
could be a bad radiator cap that is not holding the pressure. If this happens you will overflow more liquid. Bad radiator caps are more common than you might think.
I just replaced it. It's brand new.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:32 AM   #7937
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I wonder if you have a bad thermostat or bad thermostat connection?
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:33 AM   #7938
ScottDill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
I just replaced it. It's brand new.
Did it do this before you replaced the cap? Just checking....
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:35 AM   #7939
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
I just replaced it. It's brand new.

Could be an air bubble in the system, bad rad cap as just suggested. There is a small bolt on the top left of the radiator...believe its a bleeder...make sure it is tight. Make sure your oil is not emulsifying.
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:53 PM   #7940
shipwrek12001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpaman View Post
May I ask what filter you used between the Safari and the main tank? Thanks

I just went to the local small engine shop and bought what ever inline filter he had... no special unit.. that part of the fuel system is just gravity feed...
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:38 PM   #7941
dunefreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottDill View Post
Did it do this before you replaced the cap? Just checking....
yes, it's been doing it since I bought it brand new. I always just thought it was the cap. Here's my original post....

Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
I'm having an issue with coolant venting out of my overflow bottle tube. I already replaced the radiator cap and made sure the tank wasn't overfull. I seem to remember reading some guys were having this problem. Mine is a 2012 and has been doing this since new. Any ideas? I'm tired of coming home after a ride with coolant all over my right boot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Could be an air bubble in the system, bad rad cap as just suggested. There is a small bolt on the top left of the radiator...believe its a bleeder...make sure it is tight. Make sure your oil is not emulsifying.
I was going to try that and bleed it out really good with that bleeder when I fill it up. I checked and the oil is good.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:45 PM   #7942
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
yes, it's been doing it since I bought it brand new. I always just thought it was the cap. Here's my original post....





I was going to try that and bleed it out really good with that bleeder when I fill it up. I checked and the oil is good.
The headgasket failed on my 2008 with 10,000 miles on it. I still have to fix it but it was burning the coolant. It is possibly...worst case scenario...that you have a pressure leak into the coolant which is causing it to leak out. The headgasket on my 98 Saab failed last fall in such a way that it was pressurizing the coolant.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:36 PM   #7943
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I'm going to pull my clutch cover and inspect the shifting linkage. I'm thinking the PO may have abused this bike more than I thought. The manual is indicating special pins needed to pull the clutch. Really?
Input from those that have pulled the clutch.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:48 PM   #7944
masterreset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpaman View Post
Hi all. A friend of mine has a 2008 690E and on a ride in Utah last year the bike developed an intermittent problem where after the engine had been shut off it would not start again. We figured it was probably one of the safety switches, either kickstand or clutch. We started at the clutch safety switch and after pulling it apart and cleaning it the bike started right up. Problem solved..maybe not. The bike did this again during the ride and we employed the same fix with good enough results to finish the ride. When my friend got home he had another similiar incident so his mechanic cut the safety switch and jumpered it to remove it from the system and as we know from other posts, this misguided shortcut caused other problems. On the advice of the inmates here, the old switch was spliced back in and the bike is running fine. My friend is certain that Murphy's Law is going to strike again and leave him stranded out in the pickertoolies. With my keen sense of the obvious, I suggested a replacement of the old clutch safety switch with a new one, but I would like to solicit advice from the experience of everyone here if this would be the right fix? The previous owner has told him that the kickstand safety had been removed and replaced with the KTM kit. Is there something else that he should be looking at here also? Thanks for the help.
Even when your clutch switch is broken, the motor should start when in neutral. When the kickstand switch is broken, the motor will start in neutral or pulled clutch and dies when you shift in 1st gear. When it doesn't start in neutral anyway, you most likely have a different problem.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #7945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I'm going to pull my clutch cover and inspect the shifting linkage. I'm thinking the PO may have abused this bike more than I thought. The manual is indicating special pins needed to pull the clutch. Really?
Input from those that have pulled the clutch.
Probably someone on this forum wrote this, but I do not know who:

"yeah, the manual is kind of bogus except for the wear limit specifications. It would have you removing the entire clutch pack in the basket. Way more work, no benefit if replacing the plates is what you are in there for.

Here's what I did:

1. unbolt and move foot peg bracket and rear brake to the side as a unit
2. drain oil
3. remove clutch cover, mark top crown orientation with sharpie
4. insert (4) M5x40 screws finger tight into clutch pack
5. remove the four main 10mm clutch bolts with springs
6. unscrew the four M5 screws you just put in gradually releasing secondary spring (very light tension)
7. slide out clutch pack making note of sequence and such
8. replace parts as needed (soak new friction plates in oil overnight beforehand) and reassemble the same way it came out

That's all there is to it. I'm screwing around or it would be a one hour job start to finish."


I have had my clutch apart a couple of times. The M5x40 screws replace the special pins, but I never used those either. Not sure why they are needed as I did not have any trouble removing or installing the clutch without them. Maybe my clutch is going to blow but I did a week in Baja and 1,000 miles after that and the clutch is fine. BTW if you can find some way to lean your bike way over on the left side you do not even have to drain the oil. I leaned my bike over on a stack of old mc tires. This is to remove the clutch plates, not the basket.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:23 PM   #7946
shipwrek12001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
yes, it's been doing it since I bought it brand new. I always just thought it was the cap. Here's my original post....





I was going to try that and bleed it out really good with that bleeder when I fill it up. I checked and the oil is good.
my 08 had the same problem, it blew the water pump seal, it wasn't until we were into the headgasket we figured that out... so I got it all...headgs, wp seal, rad cap and thermostate.

its fixed!!
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:33 PM   #7947
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Probably someone on this forum wrote this, but I do not know who:

"yeah, the manual is kind of bogus except for the wear limit specifications. It would have you removing the entire clutch pack in the basket. Way more work, no benefit if replacing the plates is what you are in there for.

Here's what I did:

1. unbolt and move foot peg bracket and rear brake to the side as a unit
2. drain oil
3. remove clutch cover, mark top crown orientation with sharpie
4. insert (4) M5x40 screws finger tight into clutch pack
5. remove the four main 10mm clutch bolts with springs
6. unscrew the four M5 screws you just put in gradually releasing secondary spring (very light tension)
7. slide out clutch pack making note of sequence and such
8. replace parts as needed (soak new friction plates in oil overnight beforehand) and reassemble the same way it came out

That's all there is to it. I'm screwing around or it would be a one hour job start to finish."


I have had my clutch apart a couple of times. The M5x40 screws replace the special pins, but I never used those either. Not sure why they are needed as I did not have any trouble removing or installing the clutch without them. Maybe my clutch is going to blow but I did a week in Baja and 1,000 miles after that and the clutch is fine. BTW if you can find some way to lean your bike way over on the left side you do not even have to drain the oil. I leaned my bike over on a stack of old mc tires. This is to remove the clutch plates, not the basket.
Thanks, very helpful. I'm very familiar with working on my KTM's on their side. . I guess I should look for some M5 screws in my box of hardware.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:34 PM   #7948
dunefreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
my 08 had the same problem, it blew the water pump seal, it wasn't until we were into the headgasket we figured that out... so I got it all...headgs, wp seal, rad cap and thermostate.

its fixed!!
So what exactly was the cause of failure? The wp seal?
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #7949
shipwrek12001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
So what exactly was the cause of failure? The wp seal?
this might be a streech, but I believe crank case pressure was getting in the water pump seal or headgasket. . putting air in the system killing the circulation, eventually over heating.. then puking rad fuild..

when we took it apart it realy didn't look like the gasket was leaking. so we auto went for the pump seal. there was a hint of water in the oil, dark grey vs black oil... since i was into the man for lots o money, rad cap and thermostate was a natural next move while we were there..

in short water pump seal, I "think"
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:51 PM   #7950
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Well just now took a look at it after yesterday's ride and the radiator is completely full and the overflow tank is still about 1/2 full. I'm going to drain down the overflow to about 1/4 tank or less and see if it continues to happen. It might have just been overfull this whole time and I kept topping it off continuing the process every ride.
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