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Old 03-31-2013, 04:40 PM   #7981
sdd04
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Location: The Ozarks....SW MO, NW AR-great place to play!
Oddometer: 811
side case protection

sooo, water crossings on concrete can be slippery, and one should not try to change direction to miss the flailing copperhead on the water's edge.

Once again proves wearing gear helps as no issues other than bruised pride.

That said, I can now see how the brake pedal can take out the side cover..... Mine indented with the pad teeth, but did not break anything.

G-It, or Carbonati for protection?

Any preferences?
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:00 PM   #7982
Albie
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Originally Posted by sdd04 View Post
sooo, water crossings on concrete can be slippery, and one should not try to change direction to miss the flailing copperhead on the water's edge.

Once again proves wearing gear helps as no issues other than bruised pride.

Wonder how if it protects against snake bites.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:07 PM   #7983
sdd04
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Wonder how if it protects against snake bites.
Funny you should mention that as the thought that crossed my mind when I first saw him was that I was glad I had my SG-12's on lol. After the fall, it was, pick up this silly thing and get out of here! Good thing these bikes are light.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:13 PM   #7984
dad2bike
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Originally Posted by sdd04 View Post
... Good thing these bikes are light.
A nice big dose of adrenaline does wonders for human strength.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:27 PM   #7985
JustBob
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Anyone had an issue with a touchy/grabby rear brake? I've lowered it as much as I can but still manage to lock it at the slightest provocation. Any way to make it less sensitive? Or lower further than stock adjustment? I have the CleanSpeed lever.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:34 PM   #7986
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Anyone had an issue with a touchy/grabby rear brake? I've lowered it as much as I can but still manage to lock it at the slightest provocation. Any way to make it less sensitive? Or lower further than stock adjustment? I have the CleanSpeed lever.
Mine was grabby to the point of killing the bike in turns. I slid the Master Cylinder all the way back. No change to the lever level. I now go down much further before engaging.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:38 PM   #7987
thorinoakenshield
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Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Or lower further than stock adjustment? I have the CleanSpeed lever.
You have to cut the threaded end of the pushrod shorter.
That's what I did and it's in a good spot.
I got the idea from Roadracer_Al .
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:45 PM   #7988
dad2bike
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You have to cut the threaded end of the pushrod shorter.
That's what I did and it's in a good spot.
I got the idea from Roadracer_Al .
The pushrod on my 690R isn't threaded. The ones on my RFS bikes are.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:45 PM   #7989
JustBob
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Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Mine was grabby to the point of killing the bike in turns. I slid the Master Cylinder all the way back. No change to the lever level. I now go down much further before engaging.
I did that. No help.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:46 PM   #7990
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Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
The pushrod on my 690R isn't threaded. The ones on my RFS bikes are.
I'll check this out. May need to turn some threads. Not having a rear brake really sucks. I like to use both of 'em.
Thanks guys.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:47 PM   #7991
dad2bike
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Although my pushrod isn't threaded, the idea of shortening the pushrod is good. That will be next for me if I need more. Grind off a bit at a time.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:07 PM   #7992
sdd04
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Well, Dad2bike, you might be right. My wife says suddenly Darth Vader was suddenly breathing heavily in her helmet... Luke.... Got to love intercoms lol.

Anyway, perhaps I'm approaching this from the wrong angle. Maybe I don't need case protection as much as I need a lever that doesn't bend as much. How likely would it be the a billet lever like the CleanSpeed would bend far enough to hit the case?

Turns out I didn't escape totally free. Hours later you can just see the glisten of oil on your finger if you wipe the gouge the brake pad made. Pretty lucky though.

Still a great day!
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:02 PM   #7993
wiswoodsguy
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Location: Northwoods of WI
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Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
I have the '12 model, UNI drop in air filter, canisterectomy/desmoggification has been done with the 22k ohm resister applied where appropropriate, Wings slip on with the large diameter sparkie installed, and have the stock map loaded up which came on the bike as delivered.

It ain't broke, I do the 15 minute idle reset with large seasonal/ambient temperature changes, I have never gotten a code, it doesn't stall, it makes me smile, a whack at the throttle lifts the front in 3rd, and I ain't gonna remap the thing.

Keep in mind for all practical purposes, I'm at sea level here in south Louisiana at 13 feet. The low fuel light usually comes on right around 125 to 130 miles, so your experience may vary.

Dirty
What gearing ??
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:05 PM   #7994
dirty_sanchez
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Stock Gearing.

Dirty
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:29 PM   #7995
wiswoodsguy
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Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Stock Gearing.

Dirty
Which is ??

Mine was swapped out before I bought it - set up for more road use - and it is not that desirable for how I ride.

I wanna do 3rd gear power wheelies (btw I can do 4th gear standing wheelies on my 520 )
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