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Old 03-29-2013, 10:11 AM   #7981
bezzz
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Sweden
Oddometer: 3
And 2012
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:04 PM   #7982
dirty_sanchez
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Mos Confussione'

Meant to say I couldn't move the axle blocks forward enough with the stock chain to mount a 17 on the front.

Gimme a break-the grey hairs just started coming in.

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Old 03-29-2013, 06:15 PM   #7983
wiswoodsguy
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Northwoods of WI
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anybody wanna share how much the stealer charged for the Akro remap ??

Just want to know what to expect
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:37 PM   #7984
dirty_sanchez
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
anybody wanna share how much the stealer charged for the Akro remap ??

Just want to know what to expect
Mine told me they'd do it for $80, but my bike runs like a scalded ape on fire and gets killer gas milage as it sits, so I passed.

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Old 03-29-2013, 09:09 PM   #7985
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Upstate SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
anybody wanna share how much the stealer charged for the Akro remap ??

Just want to know what to expect
Mine got remapped twice, dealer didn't charge me a penny.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:01 PM   #7986
Roadracer_Al
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Oddometer: 1,429
$110

Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
anybody wanna share how much the stealer charged for the akro remap ??

Just want to know what to expect
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:40 PM   #7987
wiswoodsguy
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Northwoods of WI
Oddometer: 1,426
Im assuming that my dealer is gonna charge me at least an hr

Got the Leo switch + exhaust + geared wrong 15/48

Stalls occasionaly even with all the other updates done

Hope remap helps
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:16 PM   #7988
Hoots
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
Oddometer: 1,208
Is anyone using shorter aftermarket clutch and brake levers?

If so, any recommendations?
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:21 AM   #7989
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Australia
Oddometer: 1,563
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
Is anyone using shorter aftermarket clutch and brake levers?

If so, any recommendations?
I dropped my bike first day I owned it. Kickstand sunk into grass. The clutch leaver bent at the "break off" notch at about 35 degrees. I then cut the break leaver about 1cm past that notch and it makes a great short lever.

you could do the same pretty easily... minus dropping the bike.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:24 AM   #7990
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 1,015
I had some aftermarket levers I got from KTM Twins. They were not shorty levers. I liked the feature to easily adjust lever play. I ended up talking them off because they did not fit well inside my Cycra pro-bend bark busters and the levers did not have the bump that enabled starting the bike in gear. I have them on my supermoto now, where being able to start in gear is not as important. Anyway with the pro-bend setup on my 690, breaking a stock lever is much less likely. I have not seen any shorty levers for the 690, but if you found some for the 990 SMR or SMT they might fit the 690, but prob would not be able to start in gear. KTM Twins said they were working on a new design. They were from FP Racing.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:05 AM   #7991
modeselector
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Washington USA
Oddometer: 615
FI flashing the 8's

Wondering if anyone has some input. Took a perfectly running '12, properly mapped for my Uni and Wings and yesterday put on new EVO 2 tanks from RR. Took the time to do a mild spring clean with the airbox off and add dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors.

Tanks on, put things back in place and upon start up, get the flashing 8's FI code, somewhere I translated it to "Grip Position Sensor" - I assume is the same as TPS. It starts, rough idle. Put in gear or if I add throttle will kill the engine.

Now here are a couple things I messed with during the RR tank install:
- Had to ditch the black plastic piece near the steering head on right side but throttle cables pass through there soo without thinking, started to remove the throttle cables by loosening the threads on top, forward of the tb but stopped, realized how silly that was just to get the cables from the shroud and just cut the damn thing to fee the cables.
- the inside lip of the tb looked a bit dirty and I carefully cleaned around inside lip and butterfly face with a rag and tb cleaner.
- A partial canisterectomy was performed when I first purchased the bike but kept the valve on the right side stil plugged in - all vacum caps were installed. I took this off as required to put on the rr tanks and closed the loop with the 22k Ohm resistor. I reversed this back, putting valve back ON the bike and plugged the cable back in this valve but still get error code.

Nothing looks pinched but I ran out of time last night and will have a closer peek Sunday.

Maybe someone has input or thoughts.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:21 AM   #7992
thorinoakenshield
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: ☼
Oddometer: 446
coolant

So what coolant are you pimps using?
I need to top off my reservoir a bit. i've dropped my bike too many times...
The manual calls for Motorex G48 Coolant. It's "free of nitrates, amines and phosphates."
Now I may have Motorex stickers on my bike, but I sure don't want to buy this expensive-ass coolant ($15/L).
What's the NAPA, Pep-Boys, etc. equivalent?
Maybe Honda coolant?

EDIT: oh wait, this may be what I need: Prestone Extended Life Coolant : "Free of silicate, phosphate, borate and nitrate"
I remember using this on my sportbike many years ago....

thorinoakenshield screwed with this post 03-30-2013 at 09:31 AM
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:09 AM   #7993
ABuck99
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Oddometer: 488
I was introduced to a new product from Moose Racing yesterday- and I am confident that it will prove to be as good as all the other products they put their name on. I would have no reservation giving it a try when I exchange the coolant in the 450 & 950.

It doesn't appear to be on the Moose website yet, but I checked the distributor website and it shows available April 5 (if you can wait). Any of the thousands of dealers doing business with Parts Unlimited can get it.

Price: .5 Gallon is $19.95 & Premixed 50/50 ready to pour in. Motorex G48 is about $18 a liter

From the spec sheet:
  • High performance water based coolant
  • Optimum heat transfer and cooling ability in the most extreme temps and operating conditions
  • Excellent wetting, lubricity, and fluid contact with the cooling system
  • Biodegradable formula, environmentally safe and "green"
  • Non-hazerdous, non toxic formula
  • Premixed and ready to use, no guesswork
  • Lowers water temperatures as much as 25deg F
  • Lowers Oil temperatures as much as 50deg F
  • MADE IN THE USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
So what coolant are you pimps using?
I need to top off my reservoir a bit. i've dropped my bike too many times...
The manual calls for Motorex G48 Coolant. It's "free of nitrates, amines and phosphates."
Now I may have Motorex stickers on my bike, but I sure don't want to buy this expensive-ass coolant ($15/L).
What's the NAPA, Pep-Boys, etc. equivalent?
Maybe Honda coolant?

EDIT: oh wait, this may be what I need: Prestone Extended Life Coolant : "Free of silicate, phosphate, borate and nitrate"
I remember using this on my sportbike many years ago....
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:20 AM   #7994
shipwrek12001
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Ottawa
Oddometer: 2,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by modeselector View Post
Wondering if anyone has some input. Took a perfectly running '12, properly mapped for my Uni and Wings and yesterday put on new EVO 2 tanks from RR. Took the time to do a mild spring clean with the airbox off and add dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors.

Tanks on, put things back in place and upon start up, get the flashing 8's FI code, somewhere I translated it to "Grip Position Sensor" - I assume is the same as TPS. It starts, rough idle. Put in gear or if I add throttle will kill the engine.

Now here are a couple things I messed with during the RR tank install:
- Had to ditch the black plastic piece near the steering head on right side but throttle cables pass through there soo without thinking, started to remove the throttle cables by loosening the threads on top, forward of the tb but stopped, realized how silly that was just to get the cables from the shroud and just cut the damn thing to fee the cables.
- the inside lip of the tb looked a bit dirty and I carefully cleaned around inside lip and butterfly face with a rag and tb cleaner.
- A partial canisterectomy was performed when I first purchased the bike but kept the valve on the right side stil plugged in - all vacum caps were installed. I took this off as required to put on the rr tanks and closed the loop with the 22k Ohm resistor. I reversed this back, putting valve back ON the bike and plugged the cable back in this valve but still get error code.

Nothing looks pinched but I ran out of time last night and will have a closer peek Sunday.

Maybe someone has input or thoughts.

I think and stand to be corrected..... because you messed with the cables you messed with the two throttle position sensors (thad, apad) I believe maybe your apad is now not setup with thad... giving apad improper voltages...
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:32 PM   #7995
modeselector
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Washington USA
Oddometer: 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
I think and stand to be corrected..... because you messed with the cables you messed with the two throttle position sensors (thad, apad) I believe maybe your apad is now not setup with thad... giving apad improper voltages...
Thanks shipwreck.

You know, thought the same thing as I tried to return them to where they were...I will have another look but outside the obvious loose cable, how else could I verify they are where they need to be?
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