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Old 04-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #8206
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
How about running pinned rims instead? Will the beads remain seated on them with the bibs?

Cheers,

MrHix
We did run Pins in our CR250 in the 1986 Baja 1000 the Rim came apart and left me standing on the Beach for 5 hours.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:29 PM   #8207
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Ran the rally bibs at the safari rally in 2011a and did not run rim locks. Never spun a tire or had any issues. None of my team mates ran rim locks either. We pulled and relubed them every day.


I do run rim locks with the enduro bibs though as they are much smaller
Maybe in a Rally format you can get away with it.
do to the fact you can re-lube it .
But when you have to race all out for 19+ hours ( 1000 miles )
The High speed and heat during the day kills the best bibs
you need to change out your Rear tire and bib about half way thru the race.

I did go 600 miles at last years Baja 1000 on a Dunlop 606 and Dunlop Rally Bib. After that race both tire and Bib did a extra 1000 on my sons Husaberg 450 over the winter.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:16 AM   #8208
Louisdut
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KTM690 Fault Code Help

Hi all

Iím having an intermittent problem with my 690R (2009). At first the bike would cut out under acceleration but would restart ok (it felt like someone was flicking the kill switch off and back on), finally towards the end of the day it cut out and would not restart. Got the bike home, checked coil wires, connectors etc. Got the bike running but would only run on tick over and then cut out, then ran ok.

Next outing ran fine for 75% of the day then would cut out, difficult to start and would only run on around 1/3 throttle. After swapping out the injector it ran fine for for a 180 mile road test but next trail ride cut out on the 1st lane and would not restart and had no spark.

Got bike home and is now running again, did 15 minute idle test but does not seem to rev out properly.

Used Tune ECU to read following fault codes:

P0113 Inlet air temperature open circuit or short & battery
P0122 Throttle position sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P0227 Grip throttle sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P2119 Throttle position fault

Would suggest itís a throttle sensor issue, but would this prevent a spark?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Louis
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:37 AM   #8209
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
Maybe in a Rally format you can get away with it.
do to the fact you can re-lube it .
But when you have to race all out for 19+ hours ( 1000 miles )
The High speed and heat during the day kills the best bibs
you need to change out your Rear tire and bib about half way thru the race.

I did go 600 miles at last years Baja 1000 on a Dunlop 606 and Dunlop Rally Bib. After that race both tire and Bib did a extra 1000 on my sons Husaberg 450 over the winter.

We saw a couple of bibs get smoked on the Safari but they were mostly on the big 950SE's that were running. I had one Bib get damaged thanks to a stick that punctured the tire and cut the bib in half...but it still worked fine.

When I was prepping for the Safari and asking about bibs and rim locks the consensus was that rim locks were not needed. We were running around 500km's of stages a day often pinned at 100 mph. The nightly ritual was to have ourselves or the team mechanic pull the bibs, recoat with lube, and reinstall. Both of my tires and bibs lasted all 5 days that the bike was run.

A lot of it depends on your riding style and the bike. I have always managed to be reasonably fast when racing but never wear tires and rarely get a flat and have never incinerated a mousse. I am sure I could run the Baja 1000 sans locks and quite possibly on one set of mousse...but I am going to be a 60% of pace rider vs a pace or even 80% pace.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:41 AM   #8210
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louisdut View Post
Hi all

Iím having an intermittent problem with my 690R (2009). At first the bike would cut out under acceleration but would restart ok (it felt like someone was flicking the kill switch off and back on), finally towards the end of the day it cut out and would not restart. Got the bike home, checked coil wires, connectors etc. Got the bike running but would only run on tick over and then cut out, then ran ok.

Next outing ran fine for 75% of the day then would cut out, difficult to start and would only run on around 1/3 throttle. After swapping out the injector it ran fine for for a 180 mile road test but next trail ride cut out on the 1st lane and would not restart and had no spark.

Got bike home and is now running again, did 15 minute idle test but does not seem to rev out properly.

Used Tune ECU to read following fault codes:

P0113 Inlet air temperature open circuit or short & battery
P0122 Throttle position sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P0227 Grip throttle sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P2119 Throttle position fault

Would suggest itís a throttle sensor issue, but would this prevent a spark?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Louis
Before you do anything too complicated make sure that your battery connections are clean and tight. With the bike running make sure that your charging system is putting out around 13 to 14 volts. And make sure you have a good battery. Also make sure that all the ground wires that attach to the frame have nice clean contact. Sometimes you have to scrape some paint off the mount point on the frame.

All of your codes indicate a low voltage problem...most sensors run on a 1 to 5 volt range or something similar...if your charging system is not working properly or your battery is low it can through the whole system out of wack.


Aside from that the more common running problems have been with bad fuel injectors or malfunctioning pumps....bad fuel and or clogged fuel filters.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:45 AM   #8211
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
Maybe in a Rally format you can get away with it.
do to the fact you can re-lube it .
But when you have to race all out for 19+ hours ( 1000 miles )
The High speed and heat during the day kills the best bibs
you need to change out your Rear tire and bib about half way thru the race.

I did go 600 miles at last years Baja 1000 on a Dunlop 606 and Dunlop Rally Bib. After that race both tire and Bib did a extra 1000 on my sons Husaberg 450 over the winter.

If you are running balls out full throttle and the bibs are getting hot and breaking down then you would benefit from rim locks because the bib will lose volume...however all the bibs I have seen that failed...were catastrophic...they get a hot spot and auto ignite into a withered useless piece of crispy foam. At that point even running 2 rim locks on the same wheel will only get you so far before the rim is less of a circle and more of a unique geometric shape.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:00 AM   #8212
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modeselector View Post
I have an almost new brake light minus signals. Send PM with email and I can shoot you over a photo.
I have the signals if you need them..
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:07 AM   #8213
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louisdut View Post
Hi all

Iím having an intermittent problem with my 690R (2009). At first the bike would cut out under acceleration but would restart ok (it felt like someone was flicking the kill switch off and back on), finally towards the end of the day it cut out and would not restart. Got the bike home, checked coil wires, connectors etc. Got the bike running but would only run on tick over and then cut out, then ran ok.

Next outing ran fine for 75% of the day then would cut out, difficult to start and would only run on around 1/3 throttle. After swapping out the injector it ran fine for for a 180 mile road test but next trail ride cut out on the 1st lane and would not restart and had no spark.

Got bike home and is now running again, did 15 minute idle test but does not seem to rev out properly.

Used Tune ECU to read following fault codes:

P0113 Inlet air temperature open circuit or short & battery
P0122 Throttle position sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P0227 Grip throttle sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P2119 Throttle position fault

Would suggest itís a throttle sensor issue, but would this prevent a spark?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Louis
Follow Seth's advice first..

I had a somewhat similar condition that ended up being the wires from the coil where they come through the cover. Insulation on one of the wires had worn through, and the resulting short would intermittently interfere with proper running. It would be fine for quite a while, then begin acting up unexpectedly. Good luck.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:25 AM   #8214
invisible monster
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Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
I have the signals if you need them..

Appreciate the offer but I really only need the taillight/brakelight assembly. Another inmate is shipping me his take off brakelight so I think I'm good.

It just shows the huge resource we have here on ADVrider. I mean, I posted up last night asking about brakelights and had a PM within 30 min offering to send me one. Great community here.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:32 AM   #8215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Before you do anything too complicated make sure that your battery connections are clean and tight. With the bike running make sure that your charging system is putting out around 13 to 14 volts. And make sure you have a good battery. Also make sure that all the ground wires that attach to the frame have nice clean contact. Sometimes you have to scrape some paint off the mount point on the frame.

All of your codes indicate a low voltage problem...most sensors run on a 1 to 5 volt range or something similar...if your charging system is not working properly or your battery is low it can through the whole system out of wack.


Aside from that the more common running problems have been with bad fuel injectors or malfunctioning pumps....bad fuel and or clogged fuel filters.
I agree with Seth. The fact that so many sensors are indicating problems (the ECU may only log a max of 4) indicates a system wide power issue.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:38 AM   #8216
Biped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Follow Seth's advice first..

I had a somewhat similar condition that ended up being the wires from the coil where they come through the cover. Insulation on one of the wires had worn through, and the resulting short would intermittently interfere with proper running. It would be fine for quite a while, then begin acting up unexpectedly. Good luck.
As Seth suggests, check voltage from the regulator/rectifier while bke is running, it should never exceed 14.7V unless it is toast.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:42 AM   #8217
Louisdut
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Cheers all for your replys

Going to put a new battery on just incase and going to have a good look at all the wires and ground wire connections tomorrow

Cheers

Louis
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:07 AM   #8218
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louisdut View Post
Cheers all for your replys

Going to put a new battery on just incase and going to have a good look at all the wires and ground wire connections tomorrow

Cheers

Louis
Inspect the connections on the main relay as well as they have been known to loosen and cause issues. This is the relay on the side of the battery box. Should have a couple of large fuses (30amp) in the vicinity.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:02 AM   #8219
dad2bike
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I normally run the Pirelli 140/80-18 XCMH tires on my 690. The one I put on my Ginger looks like it will last a whopping 1000 miles of DS riding with 25-30% pavement.
I was considering trying out the Kenda K760 Trackmaster next time. Much cheaper. Maybe the same or better performance. Only issue is the biggest it comes in is 120/100-18.
Anybody got experience with them on the 690?
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:31 AM   #8220
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I normally run the Pirelli 140/80-18 XCMH tires on my 690. The one I put on my Ginger looks like it will last a whopping 1000 miles of DS riding with 25-30% pavement.
I was considering trying out the Kenda K760 Trackmaster next time. Much cheaper. Maybe the same or better performance. Only issue is the biggest it comes in is 120/100-18.
Anybody got experience with them on the 690?
I ran the trakmaster II in the 120/100-18 size on my 690 for the paris to Dacre ride up in Canada a few years ago. I had a full Safari tank on the bike at the time and we were running lots of high speeds....that ride is 800km (500 miles) in one day. That tire worked great. It probably had around 1500 miles on it when i took it off. traction was excellent...it was almost like a trials tire and I was pleasantly surprised as to how well it worked.
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