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Old 04-27-2013, 02:58 PM   #8446
Aaron from Texas
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Texas
Oddometer: 489
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2degreesout View Post
Does anybody use this KTM 690 tankbag:

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-enduro-smc-tank-bag

I used it for a while every day, for tools and everything else. I've since built a tray where the airbox used to be and mounted a drybox for my tools and now wear a Kriega R25 for everything else... Just didn't like the tankbag on the bike ALL the time, but it works great for long trips, etc...

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Old 04-27-2013, 03:22 PM   #8447
Yellow Pig
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Kalifornia
Oddometer: 7,540
This new headlight should fit the 690.

A bit pricey but looks very cool.

Can't find any other info besides the videos.

Enduro-Tech LED Hi/Low (4500/1800 lumen)

http://youtu.be/jWQkFKjN2LY

http://youtu.be/IlCYtaAadgY




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Old 04-27-2013, 08:41 PM   #8448
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
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Dead speedometer issue resolved

Similar to what Uller mentioned a few pages back.

Just in front of the top right tank bolt is a ground wire that bolts to the frame. I should have checked that early on but it looked OK. Anyway I traced a brown/purple wire from a speedo connection all the way back to that ground. I took the insulation off that ground and discovered there were three small wires and one bigger wire all crimped to the connector. No solder. Just crimped. One of those small wires was broken and another was almost broken. I soldered, waterproofed, and strengthened that connection and the speedometer works! So if your speedometer stops working, check that connection first. I wish I had!
BTW I took the sleeving off a good bit of the wiring loom from the fuse box all the way to the ignition and all those wires looked like new. It was a major pain re wrapping all that stuff.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:58 PM   #8449
lightfighter
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Joined: Dec 2007
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That light does look cool... I have thus far been unable to really do any nighttime riding with the baja designs light(which is now on a smart dimmer).
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:33 AM   #8450
Czechie
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Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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690 Graphics to buy

Any tips for nice 690 graphics? more interested in any US on-line stores.
Thank you.
David
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:32 AM   #8451
2degreesout
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Location: A few clicks off center
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
I used it for a while every day, for tools and everything else. I've since built a tray where the airbox used to be and mounted a drybox for my tools and now wear a Kriega R25 for everything else... Just didn't like the tankbag on the bike ALL the time, but it works great for long trips, etc...

That looks like a different bag...bigger,that looks like the bag I had on my 950.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:07 AM   #8452
poondangle
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Location: Suffolk, VA
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Dumb question of the day

So I've got a '13 with 500 miles. Almost all of those miles off road. I had to ride the bike to a charity event this morning. This morning was almost all interstate. So I needed to pass a truck this morning...I opened up the throttle at 60ish. Immediately the revs come up to 7k plus, but not the power? I can't possibly need a clutch already? I tried in all gears, and it seemed to be a repeatable problem in every gear. Smooth roll on the gas, and no issue. Hammer the throttle, and for a small period of time, between 5k and 8k I'm just making noise? Any ideas?
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:12 AM   #8453
ericGSsti
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Location: Dublin, Ireland
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That's the bigger back alright. I have that one for my 640 adv.



Good bag this one.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:58 AM   #8454
Oldbear
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Fin Land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
So I've got a '13 with 500 miles. Almost all of those miles off road. I had to ride the bike to a charity event this morning. This morning was almost all interstate. So I needed to pass a truck this morning...I opened up the throttle at 60ish. Immediately the revs come up to 7k plus, but not the power? I can't possibly need a clutch already? I tried in all gears, and it seemed to be a repeatable problem in every gear. Smooth roll on the gas, and no issue. Hammer the throttle, and for a small period of time, between 5k and 8k I'm just making noise? Any ideas?
Have you checked your clutch fluid reservoir? The fluid level rises as the clutch wears so you could take a peek to see that it's not overfilled. The fluid level should be 4 mm below the top.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:03 PM   #8455
Christophe
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Aix-en-Provence, France
Oddometer: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
I just put a Clean Speed Eng pedal on my '12. Nice & sturdy and a good fit. Looks similar to the RR, but less $$$.
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:52 PM   #8456
thorinoakenshield
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: ☼
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechie View Post
Any tips for nice 690 graphics? more interested in any US on-line stores.
Thank you.
David
http://www.ridepg.com/ is pretty good. i dont think they have full kits, but you can email them. they did my number plate, fork and fork protector decal:


thorinoakenshield screwed with this post 04-28-2013 at 01:13 PM
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #8457
Czechie
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Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
http://www.ridepg.com/ is pretty good. i dont think they have full kits, but you can email them. they did my number plate, fork and fork protector decal:

Thanks, I've google it found this one in Germany, looks pretty cool.
http://www.race-styles.com/en/show_s...rttype=asc&nr=
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:55 PM   #8458
The Letter J
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Location: Santa Maria, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christophe View Post
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
I'm not sure how to say it nicely, your logic sucks. A stock pedal cost's ~$129 while the stock footpeg bracket cost's ~$132. The footpeg bracket is WAY less likely to get fubared compared to the stock pedal so just put on the stronger pedal and break less often... even if you did damage the footpeg bracket, it would be less frequently (never) so no matter how you slice it going with the stronger pedal (after ruining the stocker) will come out cheaper in the end. Much cheaper and less frustrating than buying a couple stockers every season! If you were that worried about it, you could Heli-coil the female threads on the frame bracket side and use a grade 8 (or F9-11) bolt there too, I wonder what the weak link would be then?

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
I have snagged/hit/pivoted the bike on the cleanspeed pedal hundreds if not thousands of times now with no ill effects since I installed it (3 years ago) and I wholeheartedly recommend it (or the RallyRaid version) to anyone who rides more than street.
Maybe I should install weaker handlebars so that I don't break my bar mounts again? Then I could just carry spare low quality parts with me? Not likely.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:20 PM   #8459
Hoots
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Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
I'm not sure how to say it nicely, your logic sucks. A stock pedal cost's ~$129 while the stock footpeg bracket cost's ~$132. The footpeg bracket is WAY less likely to get fubared compared to the stock pedal so just put on the stronger pedal and break less often... even if you did damage the footpeg bracket, it would be less frequently (never) so no matter how you slice it going with the stronger pedal (after ruining the stocker) will come out cheaper in the end. Much cheaper and less frustrating than buying a couple stockers every season! If you were that worried about it, you could Heli-coil the female threads on the frame bracket side and use a grade 8 (or F9-11) bolt there too, I wonder what the weak link would be then?

Maybe I should install weaker handlebars so that I don't break my bar mounts again? Then I could just carry spare low quality parts with me? Not likely.
I agree with Christophe on this one.

Once you've had some frame damage resulting from a twisted pedal or footpeg, you'd do the same ...

The bike prior to this one was written off for this reason - in this country, you can't re-register a bike that has had any form of frame damage - end of bike, which fortunately was reimbursed by the other party's insurance ...

Aside from that, damage to attachment points is generally not repairable in the bush - which can be a major issue ...

Softer levers can generally be re-bent several times before they break - and generally last several years ...
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:59 PM   #8460
Seth S
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If you are worried about breaking the frame because of a strong brake pedal then drill some holes in the pedal to weaken it...basically introduce a designed fail point.
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