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Old 05-22-2013, 06:21 AM   #8836
dirty_sanchez
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoRider View Post
Just the Wings for now. What size Heidenau (140/80 Tube)? You're in the rainy South East I see. How is this combo on wet roads. Would you commute 40 miles one way with that 606? Good to hear from you Dirty. Appreciate your posts.
Any knob on the front might make for some excitement in the rain, but the 606 on the front of the 640A or the 690 so far has been fine in the wet.

I don't think any of us have the gonads to ride like a footpeg scraping hooligan in the wet though, so tire choice is really a moot point.

Running a 606, a 908, or the Heidenau K60 all gripped well enough that the 640A running with the FCR carb never had the power to actually break the back end of the bike loose as I goosed the throttle coming out of tight paved twisties on the Pig Trail they have up in NW Arkansas. The 690 on the other hand WILL break the ass-end of the bike loose under hard acceleration coming out the tight twisties even with the K60 on the rear. If that don't make you pucker up and tear a hole in the naugahide I don't know what will...

I do like the 606 on the front for the sort of riding we do here in Louisiana and up in AR where we ride a few times each year. I usually keep the front at 22psi. This is the likely culprit for the reason the knobs fold back and develop a sawtooth-like wear pattern caused by front tire braking forces. Some folks would flip the tire to reverse the wear pattern but I'm too lazy to do so.

I do like the 140 Heidenau on the back of both bikes.

Dirty
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:50 AM   #8837
TheMuffinMan
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Denver, USA
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Wow! I finally uploaded the 2012 evo-1 map into the bike (evo-1 airbox and an FMF Q4 slip-on atm). What a difference! Much better power over the whole rev range and the throttle smoothed out in first gear on/off. I can't wait to hit the trials with it after these changes (and the throttle response wasn't bad to begin with).



As for all the debate on bikes I have a 690e coming from a 950 adv. The 690 will be my do everything bike from commuting to pretty aggressive trail riding. I've ridden my uncle's TE511 for a bit on the trail and while the 690 isn't as nimble or light it does just fine. I would get (and have) a stiffer rear spring before riding trails, jumping over water bars, and whoops. RRaid tank bolt upgrades are a must for this kind of riding.

It's easy to ride 100 miles to the trails, do trails all day, and then ride home. Not having to fuss with a trailer is nice. I am planning on even longer (500-1000 mile) trips on the bike this summer with camping gear. It's not the best street bike by any means but it's good enough for me; and nearly all of the interesting roads are non-interstates, 65-70mph which the bike easily handles and the windblast isn't too bad.

No one bike does it all perfectly though. If I won the lottery I'd probably have a 450 dirt bike for close super gnarly trails, the 690 for camping trips, and a road bike of some kind (probably a MG Griso 8v ).
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:13 AM   #8838
SKINNY
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Joined: Jul 2001
Location: West Texas
Oddometer: 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan View Post
Wow! I finally uploaded the 2012 evo-1 map into the bike (evo-1 airbox and an FMF Q4 slip-on atm). What a difference! Much better power over the whole rev range and the throttle smoothed out in first gear on/off. I can't wait to hit the trials with it after these changes (and the throttle response wasn't bad to begin with).
Let us know if your fuel mileage goes down...
I'm getting around 50-55 mpg with the stock map,stock air box w/foam filter and a Wings slip-on...
I'm not willing to sacrifice mileage for a few extra HP....
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:48 AM   #8839
TheMuffinMan
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I was getting 50-60 commuting and about 45-50 on trails so we'll see how that changes. Eventually I'm going to get a wideband or EGT sensor welded in so I can fine tune the mapping myself.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:27 AM   #8840
bayarearider
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
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2012 & up OEM speedo

Anyone knows whether this can be fitted on earlier version models. I have a 2010 enduro R. If yes, whats the trick to get the tacho to work ?
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:29 AM   #8841
wsmc831
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Location: Central Oregon
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Originally Posted by bayarearider View Post
Anyone knows whether this can be fitted on earlier version models. I have a 2010 enduro R. If yes, whats the trick to get the tacho to work ?
All you need to do is change the main wiring harness on the bike, and buy the headlight/tach/mount hardware from an 08/12/13 or any year smc.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:45 AM   #8842
Yellow Pig
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I just finished installing the new Lynx Fairing on my bike. So far I'm pretty pleased. Installation is very simple, the unit provides nice wind protection, but does not get in the way when trail riding and puts out some nice light.



I replaced the aluminum grid rock guard w/ a piece of Lexan. While the aluminum guard looked cool it put a strange web shaddow in the headlight throw.











HID Low beam:


HID high beam:



Dash w/ Garmin Montana and OEM speedo:


The red button on the side turns off the low beam. Saves some wattage when offroad riding or using electric gear or trying to start the bike w/ a weak battery.

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Old 05-22-2013, 12:09 PM   #8843
v8toilet
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Northwest U.S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
I just finished installing the new Lynx Fairing on my bike. So far I'm pretty pleased. Installation is very simple, the unit provides nice wind protection, but does not get in the way when trail riding and puts out some nice light.

How do you feel it compares to the race light you had on your SE? My 690 has TT race light with Boatmans conversion and I'm trying to decide which way to go. I like the race light output and the clean air. Above 70 though it gets hard to hang on...

v8toilet screwed with this post 05-22-2013 at 07:48 PM Reason: Removed quoted pictures to save folks some scrolling
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:33 PM   #8844
StevenD
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or just put the plug on the loom. all the signal inputs are the same. your just meight need to put a tach wire extra.
^^ for the cluster.

Like those tanks a lot!!
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:43 PM   #8845
Superdude
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Inland of the left coast, north of the 49th.
Oddometer: 24
Question sub-frame

Has anyone attempted to utilize auxiliary front tanks only and eliminate the rear tank? I have rear racks and Rally Raid upper and lower tank bolts but the wife has taken a shine to "bike camping" lately (2up) and I am a bit nervous about the loads we are packing. I was thinking that maybe a proper rear sub-frame might be possible...???
I realize that the fuel pump is in the tank, but would an in-line high pressure pump be possible out of the front tanks?
Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:05 PM   #8846
SKINNY
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Location: West Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdude View Post
Has anyone attempted to utilize auxiliary front tanks only and eliminate the rear tank? I have rear racks and Rally Raid upper and lower tank bolts but the wife has taken a shine to "bike camping" lately (2up) and I am a bit nervous about the loads we are packing. I was thinking that maybe a proper rear sub-frame might be possible...???
I realize that the fuel pump is in the tank, but would an in-line high pressure pump be possible out of the front tanks?
Thanks.
You could probably come up with an external pump that would do the job, but the stock tank is also the mounting surface for the fuse block, battery, seat latch, and numerous other stuff...
Making a subframe to replace all that and designing it to be structurally sufficient is well beyond most folks' skill level...
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:15 PM   #8847
rickypanecatyl
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Nice fairing yellow pig... what lights did you go with? The standard 90mm Hella Halogen's? 1 or 2 HID's...
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:19 PM   #8848
Superdude
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Location: Inland of the left coast, north of the 49th.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINNY View Post
You could probably come up with an external pump that would do the job, but the stock tank is also the mounting surface for the fuse block, battery, seat latch, and numerous other stuff...
Making a subframe to replace all that and designing it to be structurally sufficient is well beyond most folks' skill level...
True, but what an opportunity for Rally Raid!

To be honest, the stock tank may be tougher than we think. The boss and I were out on some old logging roads looking for a "lost lake" on the weekend and with the flat light from the gray sky, I managed to pound us into more than a couple of swales cut across the road. I think it did her more damage than the bike. My kidneys were not faring too well wither with the shots she kept providing.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:32 PM   #8849
Hoots
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Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post

I just finished installing the new Lynx Fairing on my bike. So far I'm pretty pleased. Installation is very simple, the unit provides nice wind protection, but does not get in the way when trail riding and puts out some nice light.

I think I'll probably go down this track also.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:33 PM   #8850
SKINNY
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Location: West Texas
Oddometer: 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdude View Post
True, but what an opportunity for Rally Raid!

To be honest, the stock tank may be tougher than we think. The boss and I were out on some old logging roads looking for a "lost lake" on the weekend and with the flat light from the gray sky, I managed to pound us into more than a couple of swales cut across the road. I think it did her more damage than the bike. My kidneys were not faring too well wither with the shots she kept providing.
The theory so far is that since KTM sells the 690 with passenger foot pegs, the subframe/tank must be design to take the load...
My personal experience is that I broke the lower tank bolts with substantially less load than a passenger would be...
The tank may very well be OK, but the mounting points are suspect...
even with the upgraded upper and lower bolts...
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