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Old 05-26-2013, 03:44 PM   #8941
Yellow Pig
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Kalifornia
Oddometer: 7,510
Lighter weight fork oil and more air

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:48 PM   #8942
oinky1982
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injector body boots blow out

Hi,

my bike is 2012, 4000 miles on it,

yesterday it make a back fire ant the injector body boots blow out any way to correct it to make sure never hapen again ?
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:17 PM   #8943
Gros Buck
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Quebec City, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramjet View Post
Just got one of these. Anyone know torque spec for the pivot bolt?
And as i recall, it's a lefty thread, right?
Read instructions. To my knowledge, there are 3 pedals design for th 690. Ask CleanSpeed. They are well aware.

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Old 05-26-2013, 04:30 PM   #8944
jonnykilo
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Location: East Coast Canada
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chain

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Originally Posted by OhBoy View Post
Thanks
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:36 PM   #8945
ramjet
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Location: Super F'd Up N. California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Left hand thread-yes. Torque. I dunno. I don't use a TW for small bolts.
When I did my Cleanspeed, I did take some emery cloth to the bolt so it slid into the bearings easy. Also plenty of grease.
I recall putting some blue loctite on the threads.
My 2012 was normal thread-right/tight, left/loose.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:20 PM   #8946
MAXVERT
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Sun Valley Idaho, Baja Arizona
Oddometer: 1,040
Screw Plugs

What do the two set screws ( screw plugs ) on the left intake side,
above the rocker arm shaft do ?

Do you screw them tight or are they to regulate oil flow ?

I can't find anything in the manual.

http://images.imagessite.com/OEM_IMA...90ENDURO44.gif

They are # 12 set screws in this image.

Thanks, Max
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Old 05-27-2013, 02:12 AM   #8947
MakoRider
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Middleburg,FL
Oddometer: 81
Question Tire changing tools

Any recommendations for tire changing equipment, tools, spoons for at home or in the field?
Just ordered Pirelli MT 90s for commuting and local dirt roads & forest service roads.
I will change back to the Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross or another DOT nobby when going real off-road.

I appreciate any advice on what tools have helped you.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:36 AM   #8948
CanadianX
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Ontario
Oddometer: 1,586
Quote:
Originally Posted by oinky1982 View Post
Hi,

my bike is 2012, 4000 miles on it,

yesterday it make a back fire ant the injector body boots blow out any way to correct it to make sure never hapen again ?
Is your bike stock?
My 2012 was backfiring and blowing the boot off between the air intake and throttle body. I replaced the the exhaust with an FMF (more to get ride of the heat of the factory exhaust) also added a unifilter and had the ecu remapped with the acro map. No more backfiring, no more stalling when hot and the bike runs better.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:03 AM   #8949
MeinMotorrad
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Faro, Portugal, for a couple of weeks.
Oddometer: 1,479
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
The first thing that I would try is backflushing the injector, mine starting acting up at ~6200 miles and by ~6300 was unrideable, this fixed it:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen View Post
Letter J's injector flush is a good idea, I started there when your situation was mine. Also check grounds.

You running stock leg burner? I've got Wings and what did eventually fix mine was going to the Euro map, not sure why it didn't show up for three thousand miles after install but remap made it fantastic again.
Thanks guys. I might do the external fuel filter and ca cycle works pump at the same time as the injector.

I'm using the mild map with the KTM alloy slip on can.

I did the throttle reset and 15min idle this morning and went for a run and didn't get any problems but, better safe than sorry - I'll do the injector.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:58 AM   #8950
dad2bike
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Oddometer: 4,063
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
Thanks guys. I might do the external fuel filter and ca cycle works pump at the same time as the injector.

I'm using the mild map with the KTM alloy slip on can.

I did the throttle reset and 15min idle this morning and went for a run and didn't get any problems but, better safe than sorry - I'll do the injector.
I suggest dealing with this issue one step at a time. It will simplify any troubleshooting.
When you do the filter look at how you want to clean up the hoses inside.
I used 2 x 12" pieces of the submersible fuel line. This eliminated all of the plastic line. It was a royal PITA to get the clamps to fit. However, I was successful. For the external filter choose a location that suits you. Some just replace the inline valve. I replace all the lines and relocated my filter to a location accessible without tearing stuff apart.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:45 AM   #8951
Roadracer_Al
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Oddometer: 1,605
Yes, I do! I am a huge fan of the Motion Pro T6 forged aluminum tire levers. They come in a bunch of different sizes

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...+t6+tire+lever

I also purchased their bead breaker thing, which works great on stiff-sidewall tires (i.e. dirt tires). Soft sidewall (i.e. street tires) not so much.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ol-Set?ref=sho

Regarding air pressure, I have a neat little Crank Brothers bicycle pump. Works great for pumping up tube tires, but you're not going to seat the bead with a tubeless tire with this, that's for sure.

http://www.crankbrothers.com/pumps_alloy.php


Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoRider View Post
Any recommendations for tire changing equipment, tools, spoons for at home or in the field?
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:54 AM   #8952
Roadracer_Al
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Location: Oakland, CA
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Well crap.

Looks like I finally got bit by the KTM electrical gremlins. 15k miles. Not bad for a 690.

Funny how once you've drank the orange KoolAide that we make allowances... ... because it is simply unthinkable that, say, a DR650 would need to be trailered home at that mileage.

I rode into the city a couple nights ago, and it ran fine. I went to go home, and it fired briefly, stumbled and quit. Then it wouldn't fire at all.

I got it home (thanks Kenyon!) and decided to replace the wonky quick disconnect fitting since it had been causing problems. I found a 3/8" splice kit at the automotive parts place and put that in place of the fitting. No joy.

I couldn't commit any further diagnostic time to it, but anticipate a fuel pump replacement is in my near future.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:41 AM   #8953
CoolHands
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: London, UK
Oddometer: 36
Can anyone provide a link to relevant posts regarding relocating the rear indicators when removing the large numberplate holder? I want to still use the original indicators. Do you simply drill new holes?
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:25 AM   #8954
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 1,118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Looks like I finally got bit by the KTM electrical gremlins. 15k miles. Not bad for a 690.

Funny how once you've drank the orange KoolAide that we make allowances... ... because it is simply unthinkable that, say, a DR650 would need to be trailered home at that mileage.

I rode into the city a couple nights ago, and it ran fine. I went to go home, and it fired briefly, stumbled and quit. Then it wouldn't fire at all.

I got it home (thanks Kenyon!) and decided to replace the wonky quick disconnect fitting since it had been causing problems. I found a 3/8" splice kit at the automotive parts place and put that in place of the fitting. No joy.

I couldn't commit any further diagnostic time to it, but anticipate a fuel pump replacement is in my near future.
Probably fuel related but check the blade connectors on the coil. I doubt it is that but easy to check. Mine gave me some fuel starvation symptoms and it was poor coil connection.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:01 PM   #8955
CoolHands
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Location: London, UK
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from my little reading - clean the injector as a first step, no?
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