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Old 07-09-2013, 11:34 AM   #9616
yuu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I don't know what the numbers mean on the back in order to understand what they are supposed to tell me.
The 10 and 12 should be the year of manufacture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
But, to answer your question directly, there are obvious differences in the casting itself. There are quite a few small differences between the two parts.

Maybe they just cleaned up the casting and it is a different run on a different date. I'm not sure, that is why I brought it up.
Can you detail the differences? Are there any fundamental differences, like width or length?
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:52 AM   #9617
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yuu View Post
The 10 and 12 should be the year of manufacture.



Can you detail the differences? Are there any fundamental differences, like width or length?
Well, from my recollection the revised part number was just started in 2012 so, not sure how a new part # would have a 2010 manuf. date......

There don't appear to be any fundamental differences. The bearings look the same. The contact points seem to line up. (I don't have a caliper with me) There are noticeable casting differences though.



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Old 07-09-2013, 07:12 PM   #9618
Kirkster
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Clutch problems

Well we made a wrong turn on the TAT in Utah today. I really abused my clutch in deep sand for a long time. When we finally made it back to pavement my clutch was slipping big time. In 6th on the highway anything over 4500 rpm and the clutch would start slipping. Where should I start looking?

Look in the manual and nothing. There does not appear to be any leakage from the master. I have not looked at the fluid in e slave yet. Exhausted...
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:15 PM   #9619
poondangle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirkster View Post
Well we made a wrong turn on the TAT in Utah today. I really abused my clutch in deep sand for a long time. When we finally made it back to pavement my clutch was slipping big time. In 6th on the highway anything over 4500 rpm and the clutch would start slipping. Where should I start looking?

Look in the manual and nothing. There does not appear to be any leakage from the master. I have not looked at the fluid in e slave yet. Exhausted...
I had the same problem, minus the abuse, on mine after only 500 miles. The clutch was replaced under warranty.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:20 PM   #9620
Gros Buck
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Location: Quebec City, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
From Uni-filter: ($64.95)

So if you get the KTM version you are spending $40 for the color orange....and the Uni-filter green version is a $20 premium for green.
Yeah ...

But that said, I have a black and a green and a prefer the green. Much easier to see when you clean ... Same principle as those guys who paint their bike's frame in white when it was black :) :) :) Honestly, I prefer the orange frame of the 2011 over my previous 2008's black frame.

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Gros Buck screwed with this post 07-09-2013 at 07:32 PM
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:29 PM   #9621
Kirkster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
I had the same problem, minus the abuse, on mine after only 500 miles. The clutch was replaced under warranty.
Never had an issue with my clutch till today. Over 5k on the bike.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:43 PM   #9622
The Letter J
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So what is the question? Your clutch is burnt, you need a new one.

It is really easy to change and I could easily do it trailside if I had the parts... being that you are on the road, your best bet might be ordering a cheap(er) replacement (only because it is more likely to be in stock) online and having it overnighted.

EBC part #DRC205 is a complete kit to fit the 690 and there are offbrand variations on Ebay by "Outlaw Racing" for very cheap. I don't know the KTM part number for a "kit" but if you buy 3, 28, 29, 30, and 31 in the listed quantities here: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&c=0&d=-CLUTCH you will have the same thing.

outlaw kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outlaw-Racin...1a9a9e&vxp=mtr

EBC kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-KTM-690-E...28e14e&vxp=mtr

EBC friction plates only: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Clutch-F...6e7915&vxp=mtr

One question for you: does your clutch lever feel abnormally stiff and go back to normal(ish) when cool?
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The Letter J screwed with this post 07-09-2013 at 07:53 PM
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:58 PM   #9623
Kirkster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
So what is the question? Your clutch is burnt, you need a new one.

It is really easy to change and I could easily do it trailside if I had the parts... being that you are on the road, your best bet might be ordering a cheap(er) replacement (only because it is more likely to be in stock) online and having it overnighted.

EBC part #DRC205 is a complete kit to fit the 690 and there are offbrand variations on Ebay by "Outlaw Racing" for very cheap. I don't know the KTM part number for a "kit" but if you buy 3, 28, 29, 30, and 31 in the listed quantities here: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&c=0&d=-CLUTCH you will have the same thing.

outlaw kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outlaw-Racin...1a9a9e&vxp=mtr

EBC kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-KTM-690-E...28e14e&vxp=mtr

EBC friction plates only: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Clutch-F...6e7915&vxp=mtr

One question for you: does your clutch lever feel abnormally stiff and go back to normal(ish) when cool?
No it does not feel stiff. Feels normal.

K
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #9624
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This is a nice video to try and repair the clutch if you cannot find a new clutch pack.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0hnN4Hi8jE

You can lay the bike over on the left side and pull the clutch apart without having to drain the oil. Also KTM talks about some special screw or bolts to tension the plates while you unscrew the bolts holding the springs. Not necessary in my experience.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:11 PM   #9625
slidefighter
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Palmstatecrawler and KTM Mitch: I've been out of town for a couple of days; sorry for the late reply but definitely thanks for the information on getting the swingarm back together. I'll pull it back apart and start over a bit from the front. It is definitely tricky!

Again, thanks!


Lee...
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:12 PM   #9626
Kirkster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
This is a nice video to try and repair the clutch if you cannot find a new clutch pack.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0hnN4Hi8jE

You can lay the bike over on the left side and pull the clutch apart without having to drain the oil. Also KTM talks about some special screw or bolts to tension the plates while you unscrew the bolts holding the springs. Not necessary in my experience.
I have. Lots of clutch exp on my Yamaha, so I know the trick about laying it over. Will order a clutch pack if I need one. Easy enough to change on the side of the road or in front of the motel door for that matter...

K
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:15 PM   #9627
The Letter J
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Okay, that supports your frictions being toast. If you had lost fluid in the system the clutch would not disengage, opposite of the symptoms you are having. If the lever was hard, you either just momentarily got the frictions hot (causing them to swell, which sometimes goes back to normal after cooling) or you had water in the clutch fluid that got hot and boiled. Your situation sounds pretty cut and dry... burnt clutch.

For the time being, just downshift if you feel it starting to slip, accelerate slowly, keep your speed down and try not to lug the motor... your clutch will have more mechanical advantage over the wheel in a lower gear, making it less likely to slip. Ideally you'd just stop traveling and replace it, but taking it easy might keep you moving.

I had to replace mine right at 5k miles and really should replace it again now at ~12k miles.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #9628
Kirkster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
Okay, that supports your frictions being toast. If you had lost fluid in the system the clutch would not disengage, opposite of the symptoms you are having. If the lever was hard, you either just momentarily got the frictions hot (causing them to swell, which sometimes goes back to normal after cooling) or you had water in the clutch fluid that got hot and boiled. Your situation sounds pretty cut and dry... burnt clutch.

For the time being, just downshift if you feel it starting to slip, accelerate slowly, keep your speed down and try not to lug the motor... your clutch will have more mechanical advantage over the wheel in a lower gear, making it less likely to slip. Ideally you'd just stop traveling and replace it, but taking it easy might keep you moving.

I had to replace mine right at 5k miles and really should replace it again now at ~12k miles.
Well if. Is is slipping in the morning I will order a whole new clutch pack from somewhere and get it overnighted.

Thanks for the quick response. Will find out in the morning...

K
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:09 PM   #9629
Fabless
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Preload adjust without removing shock: one solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by burmbuster View Post
Picked up the new 690 today. Stormed the entire way up there and back, over 3 hours each way. [...]

I decided to set the sag on the shock as the height was a bit high and it only had about two inches of sag from the dealer.
Took the weight off the rear wheel and started backing off the spanner nut using a piece of key stock. Got it about 3/16" up and was afraid the spanner nut wouldn't last much longer with the beating so it looks like I will have to remove the shock and adjust it outside of the bike. That sucks.
[...]


Brad
I bought this spanner wrench: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00415XAH0

Using a grinder, I contoured the handle to improve its reach around the shock and trellis frame so I can adjust preload without removing the shock.



Cheap and easy.

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Old 07-10-2013, 12:22 AM   #9630
Oldbear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirkster View Post
Well we made a wrong turn on the TAT in Utah today. I really abused my clutch in deep sand for a long time. When we finally made it back to pavement my clutch was slipping big time. In 6th on the highway anything over 4500 rpm and the clutch would start slipping. Where should I start looking?

Look in the manual and nothing. There does not appear to be any leakage from the master. I have not looked at the fluid in e slave yet. Exhausted...
Might be a stupid question but did you check the fluid level in the master?

If it was on the upper level it's probably overfilled now after the abuse. That's probably the most common reason for people burning their clutches on low mileage.
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