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Old 07-20-2013, 02:57 PM   #9871
mbrick
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I have a few questions for a 690 rebuild:

1. What is the proper piston ring orientation? 120 each apart for all 3? Which one forward? The manual did not say anything that I could find. I also thought to place the oil ring spring joint opposite the ring opening.

2. These two parts for the clutch, is #1 supposed to be flat? I noticed both of them looked like bellville springs. And if they are, which direction does the inside face on #1? These both fit underneath/within that larger ID friction disk.

Also, there should be engine oil in the cavity behind the slave cylinder, surrounding the push rod, correct? I didn't see anything in the basket area that would seal it off.




mbrick screwed with this post 07-20-2013 at 03:13 PM
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:00 AM   #9872
MeinMotorrad
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Location: Between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-E View Post
+1!

2 oz's in a 908 and you are good to GO!!!

If your wheel fills up with mud, all bets are off, until the wheel is clean. Same with regular weights.

I even carry 2 oz's in my tool pack in case I loose all the beads from a flat.

Everyone says I am crazy, but I love the Dyna-Beads..
I'll give another vote for Dyna-Beads - used them with tubeless tyres (on a scooter) and were very good - didn't know they worked with tubed.

I'm using Ride On anti flat goo stuff at the moment which is supposed to balance the tyres and heavy duty tubes but with mixed results - rear is great front wobbles at 37-42mph then is fine.

Anyone know if wheel wobble causes problems with bearings or spacers etc?
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:22 AM   #9873
StevenD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrick View Post
I have a few questions for a 690 rebuild:

1. What is the proper piston ring orientation? 120 each apart for all 3? Which one forward? The manual did not say anything that I could find. I also thought to place the oil ring spring joint opposite the ring opening.

2. These two parts for the clutch, is #1 supposed to be flat? I noticed both of them looked like bellville springs. And if they are, which direction does the inside face on #1? These both fit underneath/within that larger ID friction disk.

Also, there should be engine oil in the cavity behind the slave cylinder, surrounding the push rod, correct? I didn't see anything in the basket area that would seal it off.


1 just start anywhere and work in a 120degrees pattern.
2 first the flat, than the springring, than a steel on top of that.
3 that is correct.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:55 AM   #9874
Michelangelo
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Anyone here using Flexx bars? Just bought a set and need some ideas on throttle cable routing.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:40 AM   #9875
mbrick
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Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
1 just start anywhere and work in a 120degrees pattern.
2 first the flat, than the springring, than a steel on top of that.
3 that is correct.
Thanks Steven. I'll do that for the piston rings.

For the clutch, is #1 supposed to be flat? Because both of them look like bellvilles, #1 a little less though. So depending on the orientation of #1, it will change the stack thickness. I can see in the manual the orientation of #2. If all else fails, I'll put them back in how they were when I took them out, I think I reassembled it on the bench in the same order. It worked before.
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:30 PM   #9876
dad2bike
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Fixed my Leaking Safari Tank.

After the last ride I noticed some leakage coming out of the back corner of the tank.
This is what I found. Upon pushing on the corner I could see a slight wet spot when the tank was that full.


The plan is to plastic weld the corner. Tank emptied of fuel and left to air dry for a few days here in the desert.

I cleaned it off with carb spray and put a welding shield behind it.



I started using this little devil. I cut strips from a HDPE vinegar bottle to use for material.



It wasn't very long until I noticed the heat going away. Damn!

Had to finish the job with this.


Here's the finished product. You'll notice it is a little more blunt than the original corner. As I was heating it up it seems the corner was extremely thin and started to give way to become a hole. Yikes!
Pushing the tank material into the center and adding some it sealed up very good.



Here it is with the seat on.



The other side.



To test the integrity of the weld we filled the tank with water and used a blow nozzle to pressurize the tank some. No leak!

Ginger taking a leak.


I plan on leaving the bike with the tanks open & empty in the shed for a week. Should dry out any remaining water.
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:43 PM   #9877
burmbuster
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Nice repair. I take it the plastic weld is a bit like soldering?
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:30 PM   #9878
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
Anyone here using Flexx bars? Just bought a set and need some ideas on throttle cable routing.

Just rotate the throttle housing so it is upside down and you'll have plenty of length.

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Old 07-21-2013, 08:23 PM   #9879
DuctTape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
Anyone here using Flexx bars? Just bought a set and need some ideas on throttle cable routing.
I got the 12 Enduro high and had no problems with the cables and that's with the Scotts damper setup which raises the bars.



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Old 07-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #9880
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post

Just rotate the throttle housing so it is upside down and you'll have plenty of length.

Those are some righteous handguards ...

What are they ... ?
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:55 PM   #9881
StevenD
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Mickey mouse guards!


Sorry..
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:09 AM   #9882
cyborg
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Location: Pacific NorthWet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
Those are some righteous handguards ...

What are they ... ?
Google "MSR Elephant Ear Handshields" or "MSR Hand D-Flectors" and also "Moose Racing Foam Hand Protectors". I think there's a few other brands of the "elephant ear" protectors out there. I've used the MSR's and they help for very cold, wet, muddy riding.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:12 AM   #9883
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Google "MSR Elephant Ear Handshields" or "MSR Hand D-Flectors" and also "Moose Racing Foam Hand Protectors". I think there's a few other brands of the "elephant ear" protectors out there. I've used the MSR's and they help for very cold, wet, muddy riding.
Thanks - starting to get cold here ...
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:34 AM   #9884
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
Those are some righteous handguards ...

What are they ... ?
Cliff's right - they are from Moose racing. They just velcro on top of the real handgaurds and work great for protecting the hands from cold weather.

If your getting cold from windblast though here is the full meal deal; handled prolonged stretches of 90mph no problem!

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Old 07-22-2013, 02:45 AM   #9885
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
Cliff's right - they are from Moose racing. They just velcro on top of the real handgaurds and work great for protecting the hands from cold weather.

If your getting cold from windblast though here is the full meal deal; handled prolonged stretches of 90mph no problem!

Thanks - yes, I've sussed out the handguards - should work well - snowing here yesterday ...

That piece of plastic is an absolute travesty ...

Don't be surprised if a Rapid Response Team is dispatched from Mattighofen to take the bike back ...

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