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Old 08-17-2013, 01:12 PM   #10426
burmbuster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
The sight glass oil level is to be viewed with bike positioned vertically and not on side stand....and sometimes oil level may be correct by volume added more than by sight glass reading. Fill with filter change requires more oil than when leaving filters in (add oil to filter to "soak it' before installing cap as starting bike with dry filter can sometimes damage dry paper filter paper).

But you probably already knew that .

Tip bike slightly to starboard and see if oil level appears in "full" sight glass....it seems to be a sensitive sight glass.

Smarter guys will offer more mechanically-minded answers
I knew everything you stated with exception of the glass sensitivity. I just tilted the bike from vertical and back up again. Oil level is at the top line now. Who knew?
Thanks.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:06 PM   #10427
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I've got a 990 S with a recent rebuild by a very competent suspension shop. Very smooth and floats over rough gravel/forest roads.

I've just bought a used 08 690, also with a recent suspension rebuild set up with R spec's. And it is sprung for my weight.

Should I expect the 690 to be anywhere as smooth riding as the 990 is?? I'm talking about fairly fast, rough, rocky gravel roads.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:16 PM   #10428
wiswoodsguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbear View Post
Right, the filter goes back in the tank. Just make sure you don't kink the fuel lines too much.

One other thing worth checking for is to make sure that the throttle body is properly attached to the intake flange and the clamp is not loose.

With such low miles the valves should be fine and it's highly unlikely that the fuel pump would be failing.

But since the can and the air filter have been changed and you're not sure about the mapping...I would start the troubleshooting from there. These bikes run really lean already when stock so the cold start problem could be just a mapping issue. The EVO1 map is right for your configuration.

As a rule of thumb: if you've impressed by the great mileage, you've probably got the wrong map
Cant find the right size pressure clamps Napa only has 3/8 and all the other auto parts stores have 7/16.

Can I use a standard stainless hose clamp or does it have to be a pressure rated clamp ??

The inside of the filter looks quite black. I wont take it out till I have the proper clamps - then I can dissect it and see whats inside. But it does look to be quite dirty IMHO

Worst case scenario, I put the bike back together and bring it to dealer for remap and get proper clamps then. Sux that its an hr away.

Timing might be right to go to the dealer anyways, they are supposed to have my 520 motor finished - so I can pick that up too. Although, they said it would be done 2 weeks ago
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:41 PM   #10429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
Cant find the right size pressure clamps Napa only has 3/8 and all the other auto parts stores have 7/16.

Can I use a standard stainless hose clamp or does it have to be a pressure rated clamp ??

The inside of the filter looks quite black. I wont take it out till I have the proper clamps - then I can dissect it and see whats inside. But it does look to be quite dirty IMHO

Worst case scenario, I put the bike back together and bring it to dealer for remap and get proper clamps then. Sux that its an hr away.

Timing might be right to go to the dealer anyways, they are supposed to have my 520 motor finished - so I can pick that up too. Although, they said it would be done 2 weeks ago
I think your black filter points to your fuel pump failing. Sounds exactly like mine. It might be wise to order up a CA Cycleworks pump (mine came with a length of hose and clamps - 12mm in my case for the filter to pump).

For the filter to regulator - get the correct clamps for peace of mind if nothing else. My filter (oem from Rally Raid) came with undersized clamps for my MY12 so I bought a clamp from a nearby garage so I could get back on the road - big mistake. 60 miles later I had to call for rescue. The clamp had failed. In the end I got the proper oetiker single ear clamps - 10.9 for my bike but yours may be different. My filter came with 8.6 clamps which makes me wonder if the spec for the fuel line has changed for the '12+ bikes. The design of the fuel pump changed to eliminate the hole at the bottom that let in crap, which is good but they didn't bother to make a decent pump.

2012: fuel filter clamps taken off the bike were 10.9mm oetiker single ear clamps.
Clamps for the fuel injector housing and quick release are 15.7 oetikers.

I'd be interested if these sizes are different for other years - could save people a lot of time.

Single ear oetiker clamps are single use only and are destroyed when being removed. You also need yet another tool to fit them properly.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:20 AM   #10430
Mudguts
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Bit of FYI if you get in a jam and need a gear lever the 2012 450/500 exc levers fit perfectly if not better .

ALSo if you want a hammerhead lever I'd use the 450/500 exc
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:15 AM   #10431
wiswoodsguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I think your black filter points to your fuel pump failing. Sounds exactly like mine. It might be wise to order up a CA Cycleworks pump (mine came with a length of hose and clamps - 12mm in my case for the filter to pump).

For the filter to regulator - get the correct clamps for peace of mind if nothing else. My filter (oem from Rally Raid) came with undersized clamps for my MY12 so I bought a clamp from a nearby garage so I could get back on the road - big mistake. 60 miles later I had to call for rescue. The clamp had failed. In the end I got the proper oetiker single ear clamps - 10.9 for my bike but yours may be different. My filter came with 8.6 clamps which makes me wonder if the spec for the fuel line has changed for the '12+ bikes. The design of the fuel pump changed to eliminate the hole at the bottom that let in crap, which is good but they didn't bother to make a decent pump.

2012: fuel filter clamps taken off the bike were 10.9mm oetiker single ear clamps.
Clamps for the fuel injector housing and quick release are 15.7 oetikers.

I'd be interested if these sizes are different for other years - could save people a lot of time.

Single ear oetiker clamps are single use only and are destroyed when being removed. You also need yet another tool to fit them properly.
Looks black to me - but what do you guys think ??

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Old 08-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #10432
sdd04
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oil change interval

Just curious as to how often you are changing your oil and filters.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:50 AM   #10433
burmbuster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdd04 View Post
Just curious as to how often you are changing your oil and filters.
No matter what bike I have, I always change the oil relative to how it was ridden. I just changed it for the first time on the 2013 after 200+ miles. If I ride it hard for an extended period, say a long highway trip at 75 mph constantly during a multi-day trip, I always change it when I return due to the higher rpm's breaking down the oil faster. Other than that, I plan on changing it about every 4k miles.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:33 AM   #10434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I think your black filter points to your fuel pump failing. Sounds exactly like mine. It might be wise to order up a CA Cycleworks pump (mine came with a length of hose and clamps - 12mm in my case for the filter to pump).

For the filter to regulator - get the correct clamps for peace of mind if nothing else. My filter (oem from Rally Raid) came with undersized clamps for my MY12 so I bought a clamp from a nearby garage so I could get back on the road - big mistake. 60 miles later I had to call for rescue. The clamp had failed. In the end I got the proper oetiker single ear clamps - 10.9 for my bike but yours may be different. My filter came with 8.6 clamps which makes me wonder if the spec for the fuel line has changed for the '12+ bikes. The design of the fuel pump changed to eliminate the hole at the bottom that let in crap, which is good but they didn't bother to make a decent pump.

2012: fuel filter clamps taken off the bike were 10.9mm oetiker single ear clamps.
Clamps for the fuel injector housing and quick release are 15.7 oetikers.

I'd be interested if these sizes are different for other years - could save people a lot of time.

Single ear oetiker clamps are single use only and are destroyed when being removed. You also need yet another tool to fit them properly.
KTM changed the fuel filter for 2012 from Mahle KL 15 to Mahle KL 97.

It's basically the same filter but with a slightly different mounting point diameter.

For KL 15 the diameter of the "neck" of the filter is 6,1 mm whereas for KL 97 it's 8,1 mm.

I personally wouldn't bother with the Oetiker's, they're good for industrial use but for DIY I'd stick with a good quality SS fuel injection clamps.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:38 AM   #10435
Velociraptor
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Manual cam chain tensioner questions

I am in the middle of installing the manual cam chain tensioner. First of all they say remove the old tensioner with a 21mm spanner but the bolt is 19 mm. Maybe just a language glitch in describing a tool? Also they are talking about an O-ring in the tensioner barrel. I do not see one. Is the O-ring very small or really recessed so hard to see? Any guidance on this? 2009 690r enduro.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:22 AM   #10436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbear View Post
KTM changed the fuel filter ...
Hey you guys,
I am in the fuel tank right now and am installing a new CA pump and Napa filter as pictured above (Stock filter (14,000 km was black...but stock pump was working.

I can pull the hose out far enough to get to the filter and get those effin oetiker clamps off ....but can't pull enough fuel line out of tank to get to regulator. Is this standard or should I be able to pull enough fuel line out of tank to get to regulator ???
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:52 AM   #10437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
I am in the middle of installing the manual cam chain tensioner. First of all they say remove the old tensioner with a 21mm spanner but the bolt is 19 mm. Maybe just a language glitch in describing a tool? Also they are talking about an O-ring in the tensioner barrel. I do not see one. Is the O-ring very small or really recessed so hard to see? Any guidance on this? 2009 690r enduro.
If it's like the 250SXF engine, remove the tensioner and there should be a roughly 2mm diameter inside of the recesses of the hole the tensioner comes out of. You might be able to pull it out with a fingertip, or you might need a right angle pick-but it should be in there if it doesn't come out with the tensioner as you remove it.

Dirty
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:11 PM   #10438
pookguy88
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hey guys, quick question, I'm a 5'6 rider and currently I'm riding a WR250R with a Yamalink and 1 inch stock lowering (combined about ~2 lowered). If I go to a KTM 690 Enduro, would I be ok with the Koubalink 1 5/8 linkage??
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:19 PM   #10439
Velociraptor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Hey you guys,
I am in the fuel tank right now and am installing a new CA pump and Napa filter as pictured above (Stock filter (14,000 km was black...but stock pump was working.

I can pull the hose out far enough to get to the filter and get those effin oetiker clamps off ....but can't pull enough fuel line out of tank to get to regulator. Is this standard or should I be able to pull enough fuel line out of tank to get to regulator ???
I think to get to the regulator you have to pull it out from the front of the fuel tank under the seat (where the regulator bolts into the tank and where the fuel line going to the injector comes out of the tank) and not from the bottom of the fuel tank.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:20 PM   #10440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
If it's like the 250SXF engine, remove the tensioner and there should be a roughly 2mm diameter inside of the recesses of the hole the tensioner comes out of. You might be able to pull it out with a fingertip, or you might need a right angle pick-but it should be in there if it doesn't come out with the tensioner as you remove it.

Dirty
Great! Thanks! No o-ring came out and it looks kinda like one is in there so I think it is fine.
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