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Old 08-27-2013, 10:57 AM   #10621
practicalshooter
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Location: Winter wonderland
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Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I'm pretty sure it's the same code I had this spring, turned out to be a faulty spark plug. Found a dealer who had the same experience with it, he had spent several days to figure it out.

/D


Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
Went and rechecked code.

I guess cuz there was a pause, it seemed like 1 long and 8 short

but probably 9 short or brief

The code in my manual sez:
Input signal from pressure sensor, induction manifold too high or too low

Thoughts ??
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:54 AM   #10622
ohauitirod
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Joined: Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumdrig View Post
Howdy folks! I'm newly the owner of a '13 690 Enduro and loving it so far. Hopefully having it will stop me from constantly trying to turn my Triumph Scrambler into a dirt bike. We'll see.

There's not much dirt nearby in the south San Francisco bay so I'm planning to get a set of 17" wheels and swap into motard mode when its appropriate. I was thinking I could keep the rear sprocket at 45T and add a tooth in the front since 16/45 is close to 15/42, the stock SMC ratio if I'm not mistaken, and I figure the chain length shouldn't need to change that way. Does that make sense?
I Have 16/45 on my 13 with 17'' , 100km at around 4500 rmp about the same as with the 21/18 and stock gearing
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:16 PM   #10623
COracer
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Location: Co Lo Rado
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FI/Fuel Pump issues

Posted in thumpers but figured I might get more response here...any wisdom is appreciated.


Bought my bike with 1,200 miles on it, replaced fuel pump in first 400 miles I had it with CA Cycleworks pump to remedy stalling issues. OE pump would do the restart after waiting a while, but I wanted the bike to run right all the time and not leave me stranded.

Installed Napa filter with CA Cycleworks pump, also Rally Raid gas cap and did a full cannisterectomy. Rode for 1,200 miles without issues then one day the bike died on the trail and would not start even after hours and had to be towed home. Few days later go to the garage to diagnose, fires right up. Loaded new FI maps per the Bartron thread, I ride for a few miles and all seems better than ever, no spitting, surging or stalling. Next day bike won't fire, fuel pump does not prime when key is on. Took tank apart and checked connections, pump still doesn't prime at all.

Replacing with a Felco pump this week, has anyone else had this many issues with their 690 FI? I have little trust in it now which really ruins the ride for me. Could it be the pressure regulator or the ECU? I haven't drilled the holes in the pump housing yet to keep it cooler, am I missing anything else?

TuneECU shows a code P1231, open short to ground for the fuel pump...cleared code and still no pump operation and it sets code again immediately.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:39 PM   #10624
Seth S
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I would suggest performing a wiggle test on the bike the next time you get it to run. By this I mean start the bike and start flexing and pushing and grabbing wires and connectors underneath the seat. If the bike suddenly stalls restart and wiggle the same area again to see if it stalls again. If so and the bike does it all then you might have a loose wire a broken wire or a bad connection.

if you find no bad connection in the wiggling it may still be something like a bad main relay or a bad ignition switch. Both of these have proven to be problematic in the past. Another problem area is on the wires connecting the coil. Look for signs of breaks or kinked wire
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:59 PM   #10625
Night Falcon
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check the wiring under the battery box that runs to the starter relays - had a wire break there once - its pretty tight in there so easy for wires to rub and break
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:21 PM   #10626
fluff34567
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Location: choco land AKA switzerland
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occasionally right after starting the engine the complete instrument display flashes about 4 or 5 times, the orange back light stays but all digits flash.

No fault code visible with tunecu ... bike is 2010 with the small display

ideas or normal ?
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:31 PM   #10627
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
occasionally right after starting the engine the complete instrument display flashes about 4 or 5 times, the orange back light stays but all digits flash.

No fault code visible with tunecu ... bike is 2010 with the small display

ideas or normal ?
I had some issues with the instrument display on my 2009 and it was some broken ground wires that connect by the upper right tank bolt area. A bunch of ground wires all connect there. Maybe a bad connection?
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:32 PM   #10628
thorinoakenshield
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: ☼
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
I, too, lift the bike under my Flatland skid plate. I did, however, learn something about this skid plate recently: it absolutely will not tolerate having loose fasteners. Once it becomes slightly loose, it will vibrate and erode the aluminum under the head of the fasteners, and this process ramps up rapidly.

If you let it go long enough, the skid plate itself will crack.

I turned some big-ass stainless washers to help with this problem -- they spread the load a bit, and they are smooth, so even if the fasteners do become slightly loose, they won't chew up the skid plate.
Do you think it's a good idea to use a large washer and then back the through bolt with a nylock nut?
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:39 PM   #10629
fluff34567
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i thought about that but it only happens sometimes during start, never with engine running and no matter how rough the ground is or during normal riding.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:25 PM   #10630
Singletrack_mind
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Falcon View Post
check the wiring under the battery box that runs to the starter relays - had a wire break there once - its pretty tight in there so easy for wires to rub and break


This is funny; I came to post a little heads-up for folks tonight and I see you are talking about this very issue.

my horn, turn signals and brake light all stopped working. Since they are all on the same fuse, I checked it. The fuse was fine, and it was getting power, so I figured there might be a problem with the wires under the fuse box. I was thinking "loose connector", but what I found was serious abrasion damage to half a dozen wires in the harness. There's not much room under there and these wires were rubbing HARD on the top of the fuel tank. The wires to the fuel pump were among those damaged, and that made me wonder how many fuel pump problems might have to do with these wires. On my bike they ran straight under the battery & electrics tray, and were pinched agains the tank. I will be lengthening them slightly so I can push them to the side. I'll be soldering in short sections of new wire everywhere you see bare copper in the attached pictures. I'd rather not have solder joints in such fine wire in a big vibrating single, but it's going to be the neatest way to do it.

When I'm done I will try to protect the wiring bundle, but there's not much room to do anything. Electrical tape looks like it'd last a day or two. Slipping a sleeve over the wires isn't possible with them all connected to their various components.

Anyway, this is definitely an area folks should remember to check when the are having electrical problems of just about any kind, since everything runs through here.





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Old 08-27-2013, 11:39 PM   #10631
Roadracer_Al
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
Do you think it's a good idea to use a large washer and then back the through bolt with a nylock nut?
Couldn't hurt. Loosening fasteners is the enemy.
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:35 AM   #10632
Joel119
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Joined: Jun 2013
Oddometer: 66
SAS removal

Question.....
I have fitted a Uni Filter, FMF Powercore 4 slip on muffler and am running the Akro map.
First couple of starts were a little shakey but once it got through a full 15min idle test it now runs sweet and starts first go etc.
What difference if any will I get if I do the SAS bypass?
It seams to run great now so other than making the bike a little less cluttered under the seat is there any real advantage removing the SAS system?

Cheers
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:02 AM   #10633
touser
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[QUOTE=Singletrack_mind;22198578]

This is funny; I came to post a little heads-up for folks tonight and I see you are talking about this very issue.

my horn, turn signals and brake light all stopped working. Since they are all on the same fuse, I checked it. The fuse was fine, and it was getting power, so I figured there might be a problem with the wires under the fuse box. I was thinking "loose connector", but what I found was serious abrasion damage to half a dozen wires in the harness. There's not much room under there and these wires were rubbing HARD on the top of the fuel tank. The wires to the fuel pump were among those damaged, and that made me wonder how many fuel pump problems might have to do with these wires. On my bike they ran straight under the battery & electrics tray, and were pinched agains the tank. I will be lengthening them slightly so I can push them to the side. I'll be soldering in short sections of new wire everywhere you see bare copper in the attached pictures. I'd rather not have solder joints in such fine wire in a big vibrating single, but it's going to be the neatest way to do it.

When I'm done I will try to protect the wiring bundle, but there's not much room to do anything. Electrical tape looks like it'd last a day or two. Slipping a sleeve over the wires isn't possible with them all connected to their various components.

Anyway, this is definitely an area folks should remember to check when the are having electrical problems of just about any kind, since everything runs through here.





[/QUOTE

Mine did that too.]
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:01 AM   #10634
dirty_sanchez
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Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
Do you think it's a good idea to use a large washer and then back the through bolt with a nylock nut?
Nylocks are the worst type of nut retaining device of all when it comes to rust lock. Plus, they're designed to be used only once. Moisture gets trapped on the backside of the nylon insert then moisture gets trapped between the space between the male and female threads and just sits there promoting corrosion.

The airspace between the male and female threads needs to be filled with something. Doing so stops galvanic corrosion, rust lock, loosening from thermal expansion, and loosening from vibration.

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 08-28-2013 at 09:03 AM
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:30 AM   #10635
dguevin
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Quebec, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
occasionally right after starting the engine the complete instrument display flashes about 4 or 5 times, the orange back light stays but all digits flash.

No fault code visible with tunecu ... bike is 2010 with the small display

ideas or normal ?
I have a 2010 myself and I linked that behavior to the fact I was not leaving enough time to the cluster to perform its "self-test" on start-up. Give it a try, turn the key "on"... look at everything go( all lights coming "on" and length display) and wait (3-4 seconds) for the cluster to display your speed ( 0 ) and your mileage than start the bike... No flashing... Another time, just turn the key "on" and spark it up immediately... you'll experience what you are talking about... No worries for that.
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