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Old 09-12-2011, 10:29 AM   #16
ChromeSux
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The Commando could potentially (if he is not too high) make you more money, its a 75 electric start, one year only bike, looks like it could clean up pretty good, i would want to get the starter that was on it.

The starters were not real dependable on those but can be made/ upgraded to be dependable.
Even with the economy like it is the market for 75 E start bikes is pretty good, and they have became harder to find, very much like the /5, you find a good one and it brings good money.

The single Mikuni carb deal is a common thing on Nortons, folks have been doing it for years, i bought a one owner 72 that had been converted, the guy had converted it back in the 70's.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:51 PM   #17
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I would love to have the Commando. Unfortunately my expendable working capital is not that large. As is my storage area. I'm maxxed out at 4 bikes at the present...2 running...2 not.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:16 PM   #18
norton73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
The Commando could potentially (if he is not too high) make you more money, its a 75 electric start, one year only bike, looks like it could clean up pretty good, i would want to get the starter that was on it.

The starters were not real dependable on those but can be made/ upgraded to be dependable.
Even with the economy like it is the market for 75 E start bikes is pretty good, and they have became harder to find, very much like the /5, you find a good one and it brings good money.

The single Mikuni carb deal is a common thing on Nortons, folks have been doing it for years, i bought a one owner 72 that had been converted, the guy had converted it back in the 70's.


Five or so years ago you couldn't hardly give away a '75 MKIII, the extra weight, linkages for the left side shift, and a few other things turned people off. Lately however, because the '75 is the only left shift Norton, and most people struggle to convert or jump from bike to bike, the '75 s are getting another look and going up in value, maybe faster than the earlier Commandos.
Plus as the rider's age, that electric start is looking better all the time.

Most people who want a Norton to ride convert to the single Mikuni, easy to tune, parts are easy to get, a real enrichener system, not dribbling gas all over the transmission.Between a mikuni and the electric ignition of your choice, a commando will become a 1 kick starter.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:56 AM   #19
msells
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Location: Parking lot of Everybody's Pizza & Steady Hand Pour House near Emory University

Him: "How's that BMW treating you?"
Me: "Well, but I'd like to have an older one someday."
Him: "I've got two in my garage."


After some chit chat we agree to meet.




Looks to all be R69 stuff. The black one he wants to get back on the road - it needs a "timing spring" and didn't quite run right. It looks like it need A LOT MORE than a timing spring... The white one was in a "minor accident" - speedo and headlight bucket is damaged. Shifter broken off. Haven't looked closely to see what else. On both bikes cables are frozen, gas caps don't budge.. I'm thinking of making an offer on the white bike plus the spares that he has around. He has another bike that was disassembled and started on. Tank and frame painted and "well cured" hanging on the wall. I think I saw fenders too. There's a transmission sitting in the garage, motor is in the basement.




Oh, and there were a few other bikes that we agreed on a price for. A Honda Dream 150 and a Yamaha XS400:





More of the white bike I'm eyeing:




I had a number in my head which I'm now thinking based on this thread is high. $1000 and all the BMW stuff except the black bike disappears! This would be the white bike plus the other disassembled bike and painted parts (tank, fenders, frame). I figure that painted tank, fenders & frame are worth some benjamins but don't know the market really. Should I offer $400-500 and leave him the frame & tank but grab the extra motor and transmission? I think he'd like all of it gone but I'm not sure of fair market value. Is there anything worth $200+ that I should check to make sure is there if I'm paying $1000 or be straight and tell him about so he could sell it separately??

What would you experienced fishermen do? I'd like to actually get a running bike out of the white one. I'm not allergic to removing lots of rust & dust and spending some bucks on parts but don't want to do a full on crazy restoration. I guess I need to do a better inspection and do some math on what the cost of a typical list of things to replace on a "ran when parked" R69 is. Headlight bucket, tires, cables, carb rebuilds, battery, fluids, lots of rubber parts, ...
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:06 AM   #20
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There's always a certain amount of risk involved not knowing the engine internals condition.
I'd buy all that for a grand in a minute. Offer him $800.00 and go from there(?)
If you decide not to invest a bunch to get it going again you could piece it out for a good amount.

The old CA95 Hondas are a hoot, not worth much but fun to ride. Don't EVER let the oil level get down to the "add" mark. ....I've fished up a few of them over the years:






And then there was the CA95's big brother:




Then this....I still kick myself for selling it....



Where it was found:

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bmwhacker screwed with this post 09-25-2011 at 09:27 AM
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:27 AM   #21
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msells View Post
Should I offer $400-500 and leave him the frame & tank but grab the extra motor and transmission? I think he'd like all of it gone but I'm not sure of fair market value. Is there anything worth $200+ that I should check to make sure is there if I'm paying $1000 or be straight and tell him about so he could sell it separately??

The /2 guys can speak up, but getting all (less the black bike) for $1K is dirt cheap.

Ask around about the slingers, just getting the white one started and riding it may be a really bad idea without doing the (expensive) slingers... once again the /2 guys can say for sure
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:47 AM   #22
disston
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Just getting the white bike for $1000 would be a steal. IMHO. I'm not an expert but have you seen the prices for these things? Yes the white one is a R69 maybe S. The black one is the cheaper /2. If you get them or it do do the slingers. If they are dirty the engine will have little or no pressure.
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:55 PM   #23
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Wink

Since today is my one day off each week I decided to spend a few minutes and look over the R60 I picked up a couple weeks ago.

I removed the fuel tank and drained about 2/3 's gallon of varnished old gas. Amazingly the petcocks still functioned although the old right side Everbest tap was pretty stiff. I swapped it with a spare Karcoma I had laying around. The tank interior looks a little dirty so I'll need to flush it out later.

I pulled the upper spark plugs the day I bought the bike and dumped some motor oil in each cylinder.




I am not "schooled" in dual plug systems so I looked over the different componants under the tank. The little maroon box in front of the coils might be an electronic ignition unit(?) or something to do with the dual plug set up(?)




I opened up the old "Puch" headlamp to look over the altered wiring which I knew lived there. It has a generic ignition switch but I don't have a key. It is a "2 pole" switch so easy to hot wire there.....rigged up an alligator clip to a lug and hooked the lug to pole #2. The other wire to the switch will be hot all the time when the battery is connected.
I looked over other errant wires on the chassis and taped and made sure nothing visible was going to short out upon bringing the electrical system back to life.The 1971 wiring harness has no fuses in the system so I temporarily wired in an newer style spade fuse to the main ignition switch lead to be on the safe side.




I have a weak battery sitting around so hooked it to the charger for a while. My other bikes each have Oddysey dry cell batteries but I didn't want to risk installing one of them in case of a major short somewhere.
I got the weak battery up to 80% and replaced the old small honda battery that was in the holder. I hooked up the battery and saw no small spark when hooking up the ground. So far so good.

I jumped the ignition switch and a blinker came on....then bumped the electric starter and we had life.

I removed the carb tops and sprayed some silicone spray on the slides and checked them for proper operation. Nice and smooth and don't appear to stick.
Made sure the oil was up to full in the crankcase. I removed the air intake tubes since I hadn't looked into the airbox yet....could be rodents still living there...

I pulled one plug and grounded it, bumped the starter and we had spark....another plus.
Rigged up a little syringe fuel holder and clamped it into the fuel system. I dumped a little fuel into the syringe and fully expected fuel to begin leaking from the carbs ......but no leaks seen.



The time had come......choked the carbs and hit the ignition....she stumbled for a moment and to my amazement it fired up with a blast of smoke from the oil I had put into the cylinders. I de-choked the carbs and the engine settled right into a nice smooth idle.
I ran a full syringe worth of fuel through the old girl. The throttle response seemed a little slow but the engine sounds real good with no un normal sounds emminating. After a few minutes warm up I pulled the plugs to look them over. Upon removal I see that the lower spark plugs are a shorter thread plug than the upper ones....maybe for piston clearance? The plugs were very dirty so wire brushed them and reinstalled. Then ran another small dose of fuel in and ran it for a few more minutes.
So....happy days!....looks like the engine is in basic working order. I wanted to install the tank and take it around the block but I'll save that for another day. Will need to change out tansmission fluid, final drive and drive line fluids before running it anywhere. Luckily this thing sat out of the weather for the past 5-6 years since it was parked.




Contacted the seller and he informed me that he can't find the parts he said he had....RE: front and rear fenders, toaster tank panels, tail light and rear blinkers....bummer.....

So this bike will sit until I figure out what to do with it.
Looks like for once the "IT WAS RUNNING WHEN I PARKED IT" was true.
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bmwhacker screwed with this post 09-25-2011 at 06:13 PM
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:08 PM   #24
disston
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The place where the top plug is is made to hold the standard length plug and the fins around it are sculpted for the plug to fit there. The place where the bottom plug is is made to hold a plug that was not in the original design and the metal is not as thick there. You end up with the short plugs on the bottom. The area can be filled a little and made thicker so you can end up with a standard length plug on the bottom also but most don't do it that way. Ted Porter makes them thicker.

It does look like a dura spark box. Still has points? maybe. and also the mechanical advance unit? If you check the timing you might be surprised that total advance is not as high as a single plug machine, This is part of the dual plugging routine. there seem to be several different expert opinions on exsactly how much total advance and how fast and how it is reached but it should be part of the tune of your new bike. I can't really tell you any more because I'm not an expert and I don't have dual plugging. But I think I might have it sometime in the future and then I'll be an expert.

I'm not sure about this last part but I think you are supposed to have both top plugs fired by one side of the coil and both bottom plugs fired by the other side. It's not important at any rate, at this point in time, just getting her running. But the idea is that if one of the coils fails, you can lose the top or the bottom plugs and still run. But with one whole side fired by one coil you could lose a whole cylinder. Again, I've never done this before so check it out. As long as everything is working it should run fine and be easier starting.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:25 PM   #25
bmwhacker OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The place where the top plug is is made to hold the standard length plug and the fins around it are sculpted for the plug to fit there. The place where the bottom plug is is made to hold a plug that was not in the original design and the metal is not as thick there. You end up with the short plugs on the bottom. The area can be filled a little and made thicker so you can end up with a standard length plug on the bottom also but most don't do it that way. Ted Porter makes them thicker.

It does look like a dura spark box. Still has points? maybe. and also the mechanical advance unit? If you check the timing you might be surprised that total advance is not as high as a single plug machine, This is part of the dual plugging routine. there seem to be several different expert opinions on exsactly how much total advance and how fast and how it is reached but it should be part of the tune of your new bike. I can't really tell you any more because I'm not an expert and I don't have dual plugging. But I think I might have it sometime in the future and then I'll be an expert.

I'm not sure about this last part but I think you are supposed to have both top plugs fired by one side of the coil and both bottom plugs fired by the other side. It's not important at any rate, at this point in time, just getting her running. But the idea is that if one of the coils fails, you can lose the top or the bottom plugs and still run. But with one whole side fired by one coil you could lose a whole cylinder. Again, I've never done this before so check it out. As long as everything is working it should run fine and be easier starting.

I'll be digging in a little deeper next time I mess with the bike. Haven't pulled the front engine cover to look at things there so don't know if a set of points / mechanical advance still reside there.
Thanks for the input as this is my first experience with any dual plugged engine. Why someone would spend the money (must be pretty expensive to have done?) to "dual plug" an R60 engine is beyond me.

The PO didn't wire in any of the "idiot" lights when he slapped the thing together....I see in the headlight shell that there are a couple of external shell lights (likely 6 volt) that have been painted over. Maybe I can use them for the standard BMW Dummy lights.
I've sold numerous sets of fenders / tail lights / turn signals in the past and here I now sit needing them.

Maybe I'll just wire in an "off the shelf" generic tail light and mount some repro bar end signals, skip the fenders and be done with it.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:54 PM   #26
briarpatch
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I have a black rear fender off a 74? R75/6. If it'll fit, it's yours. I live in the NC mountains. THANKS - Stan
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:02 PM   #27
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I have a black rear fender off a 74? R75/6. If it'll fit, it's yours. I live in the NC mountains. THANKS - Stan
WOW! I know it will fit! I've used later model fenders on the /5's before. I'll PM you!

Thanks for your help. Maybe I got something you need?
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:13 PM   #28
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Thumb

Coming to ya! If I ever get to Montana I reckon I could use a cold beer...........THANKS - Stan
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:30 PM   #29
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Coming to ya! If I ever get to Montana I reckon I could use a cold beer...........THANKS - Stan

You are on!
If I EVER get out East I will deliver to your door!
Thanks.
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:07 AM   #30
JLeather
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$1k for just the white bike would be about 1/4 the going rate for it on eBay. If you can get it for anything under $2k you could double your money, and that's not even parting it out. I watched an R69S steering damper (different from the R60 and R50) bring $600, those heads alone are $300+ for the pair, etc.

If you pick those parts up and wanna sell some I could use a stock tank for the R69S project bike I've got.
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