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Old 09-07-2011, 05:49 PM   #1
Dzini OP
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1996 Ural Tourist with sidecar

I am thinking of buying a 1996 Ural Tourist with sidecar in good condition.What is the price range for a good shape 1996 Ural?Any recommendations,thing to look for? How are they with the maintenance? How is the ride? I gone use the bike to ride with my daughter,wife few times a month (short distance) .This will be my second bike.Thank you all for help.

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Old 09-07-2011, 07:38 PM   #2
DaveBall
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You really should check over in the Hacks section.
Myself, I would not pay all that much for that age of Ural. Maybe around the $2K if it is in "excellent" mechanical condition.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:40 AM   #3
Clay Spinner
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All i can gather is that those who have them need to know how to fix them... I think they take continual tinkering to keep going. However, the design is old and basic so shouldn' t be too hard some anyone who can tie their own shoes!
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:36 AM   #4
Dzini OP
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Ural Vs BMW R75/6

Ok how about the diffrence between :1996 Ural Tourist with sidecar VS 1975 BMW R75/6 with Velorex 562 sidecar(need to install sidecar).Wich bike be better.I do have this two options.Thanks again for your help.
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:28 PM   #5
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Well I believe the URAL's tend to be much better offroad then the bmw you mentioned, which is mainly meant to be on the road. What kind of driving do you see yourself doing? Also... urals tend to top out at about 60mph. Not actually having a ural myself I couldn't give you a definitive answer... though I know where I would want to go and therefore would choose the ural... though perhaps the bmw would be more reliable... though still required maintenance at regular interval. The engines will be very similar in terms of layout.

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Old 09-08-2011, 01:50 PM   #6
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The Tourist model is one wheel drive not one of the two wheel drive more dirt friendly models. Major improvements were made to the Ural line in 2007. The best ones are 2007 and newer.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:31 PM   #7
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If it is in relatively good shape, you understand the limitations and can get it for $2500 or less, I think the Ural will be fine.
1) you will have to tinker until you get it ironed out
2) with a 650, cruise at 45-50 mph. More and it will make you pay.

I have a 650 Dnepr which is great fun on country roads and around town and darn reliable, now. The machines are geared low so they are turning high rpms above 50 mph or so. The least reliable is the alternator.
I have a 1wd and a 2wd version. Honestly, I prefer the 1wd. No weight in the sidecar and that other drive wheel isn't really getting much traction anyway.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:03 AM   #8
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Owing and driving a 1996 Ural is like owning and driving a 1959 MG-A. Loads O' fun, but know the limitations and weird shit that go with it, and you are fine.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:35 AM   #9
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The BMW with a hack will be a much better and more reliable bike and only slightly limited off road compared to a 2wd Ural. Plus, you can get parts cheap and easy in the highly less likely event it breaks.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
The BMW with a hack will be a much better and more reliable bike and only slightly limited off road compared to a 2wd Ural. Plus, you can get parts cheap and easy in the highly less likely event it breaks.
Again, the Tourist is NOT 2wd, I own a 2007 Tourist. Getting parts for a URAL is NOT a problem, they have excellent support. While there aren't that many Ural dealers, getting parts shipped to you is easily done.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
Again, the Tourist is NOT 2wd, I own a 2007 Tourist. Getting parts for a URAL is NOT a problem, they have excellent support. While there aren't that many Ural dealers, getting parts shipped to you is easily done.
I know that and was making a comment that even if the Ural was 2wd it would only be better off road because of that. That bit about Ural parts is correct for a Ural. I can say there are hundreds of BMW dealers on the planet and a few Ural. Getting parts is going to be much easier for a BMW by a LARGE margin.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:58 AM   #12
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By all accounts a 30 year old BMW is likely to be much more reliable that a 10 year old Ural. The BMW has a more modern design and the quality control in the Ural factories was non existent, so some of the faults are going to be in terms of lack of case hardening, improper clearances etc etc which are so fundamental to the use of the machine that being a simple design does not help. Charles
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:58 AM   #13
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I know that and was making a comment that even if the Ural was 2wd it would only be better off road because of that.
OK, now I understand.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:59 AM   #14
Dzini OP
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ural /bmw

Thank you all for the help.I am going to see the bike (ural) on saturday.He is asking $3000 ,first owner,really good shape.We see if i like it and bring her home :) .
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:50 PM   #15
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My free advice and worth every penny. The Ural is purpose built as a sidecar tug and was one of the last in a long line of tugs. The frame has gussets and lugs in the right places so the thing goes pretty much where it is pointed albeit slowly and you won't have to measure and fret over lead, camber, toe-in and the like that makes a poorly rigged hack scary at best and dangerous at worst to drive. An R75 frame is designed as a monotrack vehicle. Hanging a chair so the rig handles decently isn't that easy on the newer bike. The set up will require a subframe to get some stiffness to the bike's frame and wimpy rear subframe and provide mounting lugs and if it isn't in the deal it will set you back another $700 or so by the time you get it shipped to you. The forks on the R75 will be so heavy steering with a sidecar you will not believe it. A proper set up will require replacing the original forks with leading link forks if you wan to be able to steer it without pulling lower back muscles. The 562 is a very basic chair and very light. While light is good in some things in a hack it isn't when the bike frame and chair frame start getting all noodly from acceleration, turning, and braking loads. If you don't have help you'll have to work out the aforementioned adjustments alone so the thing handles safely at road speeds. At least with the Ural it is assumed the rig goes, turns, and stops within its limits. There will be no such assumptions with a DIY Velorex sidecar.
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