|08-19-2012, 10:12 PM||#31|
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Central Texas
Roll The Bones IV - Still crusty and rough around the edges. October 25-27. Whitney, TX
|08-22-2012, 03:08 PM||#32|
Joined: Jan 2010
OK It's done.
I just had to tie up loose ends, really. Bleeding the ABS linesis actually easy. It looks complicated, but it's easy. Bleed the control circuit as you would normal brakes, then bleed the ABS circuit by squeezing the lever and letting the pump do the work.
Synching the throttle bodies, again, it's easy, but I don't have vacuum gauges, so I ran to the hardware store for 4m of transparant tube. put some fresh motor oil in and observed the difference in vacuum. I had had the left TB cable removed and re-adjusted the nut to the same height, visually, but the bike ran like crap. It would idle OK (electronically controlled), but then off idle it would run on one cylinder and often bog or stall. After TB synch, all was fine. I couldn't have been more than 1.5 turns off, amazing what a difference it makes.
Did a valve adjustment, 3 valves were just a few hundredths off, and the valve rocker axial clearance adjustment as well.
Well, rocker first, valve lash second, TB synch third. The order is important. Or could be important. Oil change last. I did notice some of the oil drains down from the oil radiator and lines over time, so it looks over-filled whenthe bike has been sitting for a while.
I lost some time welding up an oil filter wrench. The filter is really recessed in there. That's a good thing on an adventure bike, but it means you really really need a special tool to get the filter out.
Also: for the rocker clearance adjustment I loosened the one head stud, and I didn't like how it felt. A little loose initially and then ... squeeky and not smooth, as head studs can sometimes be. I'm sure it's because of thermal cycles, and I'm also sure this bike went in for post run-in dealer inspection, but with the next valve adjustment, I'm re-torqueing all the head studs with plenty of graphite grease on the nuts.
Changing a clutch is a lot of work, but not as daunting as it seems. Bike runs great now. It's good to see a machine react with a lot of gratitude towards maintenance.
|10-13-2012, 03:35 PM||#33|
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: WhiteRock BC
Hi, I had an oil leak on my 2011GS and the dealer replaced the rear engine oil seal. When I got it back there was a really bad vibration from the bike. On your tred you don't mention any line up marks for balancing?
My Question are there any marks for lining up clutch plate or Flywheel?
|10-13-2012, 05:34 PM||#34|
4 year lurker..
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hi Crazydutchman, its buried in the text somewhere.
To clarify, the BMW RepROM (service manual) states: The clutch components are all precision-balanced. It is not necessary to check for identification marks when assembling.
What sort of vibration is it?
Could it be unbalanced throttle bodies?. Even a slight pressure on the throttle cables will imbalance the throttle response across the fuel injectors and cause an 'orrible vibe in the bike. If either cable was re-routed incorrectly it could cause issues.
But of course you should be hassling the dealer to find and fix.
BMW 2007 R1200GS Adventure
R1200GS Adv oil leak - replace gearbox input seal, install Siebenrock disc
R1200GS Adv - Remove petrol tank, install Hyperpro shocks
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