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Old 08-19-2012, 09:12 PM   #31
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Central Texas
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Originally Posted by elvo View Post
What I should have done is replaced the balancer shaft seal. It looked to be the same as the gearbox input shaft.
I replaced every seal that could possibly contaminate the clutch, including the crank seal. I wouldn't have gone that far if it were my bike but didn't want ANY issues on someone else's bike. But yes, that balancer shaft seal was as easy, if not easier, than the the tranny.
Roll The Bones V - No premature incinerations. Oct 24-26, 2014.
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:08 PM   #32
Joined: Jan 2010
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OK It's done.

I just had to tie up loose ends, really. Bleeding the ABS linesis actually easy. It looks complicated, but it's easy. Bleed the control circuit as you would normal brakes, then bleed the ABS circuit by squeezing the lever and letting the pump do the work.
Synching the throttle bodies, again, it's easy, but I don't have vacuum gauges, so I ran to the hardware store for 4m of transparant tube. put some fresh motor oil in and observed the difference in vacuum. I had had the left TB cable removed and re-adjusted the nut to the same height, visually, but the bike ran like crap. It would idle OK (electronically controlled), but then off idle it would run on one cylinder and often bog or stall. After TB synch, all was fine. I couldn't have been more than 1.5 turns off, amazing what a difference it makes.
Did a valve adjustment, 3 valves were just a few hundredths off, and the valve rocker axial clearance adjustment as well.
Well, rocker first, valve lash second, TB synch third. The order is important. Or could be important. Oil change last. I did notice some of the oil drains down from the oil radiator and lines over time, so it looks over-filled whenthe bike has been sitting for a while.
I lost some time welding up an oil filter wrench. The filter is really recessed in there. That's a good thing on an adventure bike, but it means you really really need a special tool to get the filter out.

Also: for the rocker clearance adjustment I loosened the one head stud, and I didn't like how it felt. A little loose initially and then ... squeeky and not smooth, as head studs can sometimes be. I'm sure it's because of thermal cycles, and I'm also sure this bike went in for post run-in dealer inspection, but with the next valve adjustment, I'm re-torqueing all the head studs with plenty of graphite grease on the nuts.

Changing a clutch is a lot of work, but not as daunting as it seems. Bike runs great now. It's good to see a machine react with a lot of gratitude towards maintenance.
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:35 PM   #33
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: WhiteRock BC
Oddometer: 9

Hi, I had an oil leak on my 2011GS and the dealer replaced the rear engine oil seal. When I got it back there was a really bad vibration from the bike. On your tred you don't mention any line up marks for balancing?
My Question are there any marks for lining up clutch plate or Flywheel?
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:34 PM   #34
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Hi Crazydutchman, its buried in the text somewhere.

To clarify, the BMW RepROM (service manual) states: The clutch components are all precision-balanced. It is not necessary to check for identification marks when assembling.

What sort of vibration is it?

Could it be unbalanced throttle bodies?. Even a slight pressure on the throttle cables will imbalance the throttle response across the fuel injectors and cause an 'orrible vibe in the bike. If either cable was re-routed incorrectly it could cause issues.

But of course you should be hassling the dealer to find and fix.
Good luck

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Old 12-20-2013, 09:48 PM   #35
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Location: Recalculating... recalculating.... HCMC-Vietnam :)
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Thanks for the great write up.
I am looking for this thread to do the same to my GS.
Again, Thank you.
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:43 PM   #36
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My pleasure VietHorse

Also, have a look at this thread regarding leaving the petrol tank off for longer periods of time (if you have the Adventure model) and the answer to the problem at Post #9.

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Old 03-02-2014, 10:33 AM   #37
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Excelent job ! I will do that in 1 month or so . Txs for the great pictures
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:58 AM   #38
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: San Francisco
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Hey JC how do you like your Siebenrock plate?
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Old 01-04-2015, 06:50 AM   #39
mach schnell
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Fl & Vt
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Originally Posted by joder! View Post
Hey JC how do you like your Siebenrock plate?

You can always count on the Americans to do the right thing, after they have tried everything else.
-Winston Churchill
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:57 AM   #40
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 107
JC Thanks again for the write up.

We used this extensively when my friend had the same leak. Now my clutch has gone or at least all symptoms are pointing that way. I will also be refer here on the regular. Thanks for leading the way.
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:30 PM   #41
Joined: Apr 2015
Location: Warwickshire UK
Oddometer: 1
Gearbox oil leak but no clutch slip (yet...)

Really good post, many thanks for taking the time and trouble to write this up.

I have a 2005 GS which, by the look of it, has been weeping gearbox oil for a little while, both from beneath the clutch slave cylinder at the back of the gearbox and also from between the gearbox and engine.

It only took a small amount of oil to top up the gearbox to the level of the filler plug, and I've never noticed any drips on the garage floor, so it's more of a weep than a leak really. But while oil has clearly found its way into the clutch housing, I'm yet to notice any clutch slip. I did a 140 mile round trip today which included plenty of miles at motorway speeds and all seemed fine.

Just curious if anyone else has experienced anything similar please? Everything I've read suggests that even a small amount of oil is sufficient to cause the clutch to slip, so I guess it's just a matter of time before mine does the same?

Any advice very gratefully received.
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Old 04-09-2015, 04:07 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by joder! View Post
Hey JC how do you like your Siebenrock plate?

Its nice to see my thread getting a work out and helping people!

The Seibenrock is great, I have no complaints at all after 18,000klm with it. Including a trip up the Oodnadatta Track last year.. Have not noticed any difference in the ride, which is how it should be, yes?

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