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Old 11-11-2011, 07:32 AM   #271
larryboy OP
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Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
The catalyst enclosure is a 2.5 chamber muffler all to itself. You can cut it apart and remove the catalyst element, then weld it back together. I emailed you some pictures.

The higher speed idle (1100rpm ) is only relevant for the ECU control. The carburetors will never produce the correct Oxygen supply in the exhaust sufficient to catalyze the extra hydrocarbons. On your bike the catalyst element will be an inert lump. The low idle speed can be whatever rpm you wish, with respect for the low oil pressure limit.



Regarding 'lights off' when starting, I relize you are switching the lights off manually using the perch switch. But if you prefer, the HIDs can be forced off automatically until the alternator powers up. That feature would be controlled by the alternator blue wire. Let me know.



Classic!

Hey, I'm pretty sure the alternator indicator light needs to be a small incandescent bulb, not an LED. The neutral indicator can be any type of light you wish (except 120VAC).



Where are the switch diagrams? Do traces B and C, for the high beam and low beam, provide 12V when 'true'? (When 'switched on' I mean.)
Don't have a ton of time, thanks for the cat pictures...I'd do that, but I'm not set up to weld stainless at home.

Ok, cool...I played with the idle a little bit more last night and it doesn't like anything other than where it's at. 1400 rpm, now that I have the tach set right.

I'm going to stay with being able to turn off the lights completely, that's what I wanted in the first place.

I had a random light that I put in the side of the old fuse box near the master switch. Wired it into the alt like you told me and it goes out when the alt spins up, gonna have to assume it's working right.

That's the only diagram I got with the switch gear. B/C provide +12 when switched and I'm running those to each headlight relay to click em on.



Quote:
Originally Posted by knybanjo View Post
Nice work!

Have you weighed it?

Thanks, I got into a time crunch and didn't weigh everything as it went back together. Quick estimate puts me right at 500, I took off 160 pounds of BMW stuff and put back about 80 pounds of my stuff.
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:57 AM   #272
Garthe
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Have fun on your shake down run Rob...

I'm in another foot cast today...and surgery planned for the broken ankle a month from now.

Right now...I'm liven through you my friend...go get'em.
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Garthe screwed with this post 11-11-2011 at 11:06 AM
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:01 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Ok, cool...I played with the idle a little bit more last night and it doesn't like anything other than where it's at. 1400 rpm, now that I have the tach set right.
1400 is pretty high. I'm wondering if that's accurate, it seems like you could tell the idle was abnormally high just by ear. If it's possible the idle is too high, connect the meter to the tach output, simultaneously with the Acewell, and cross check the Acewell. Your meter has an RPM and Hz (frequency) settings.

The stock ECU can idle the motor at 800. Did you say you were using the #6 advance curve? If so, try a curve with less advance at idle to see if the carbs can be adjusted for a lower idle. If the idle is better with a different idle advance, we'll have to get into the curves and static timing little bit more. Note: For this 'less advance at idle' test, I'm just talking about performance at idle, not off-idle, or revving the motor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I had a random light that I put in the side of the old fuse box near the master switch. Wired it into the alt like you told me and it goes out when the alt spins up, gonna have to assume it's working right.
That's what you want to see. I was thinking that the alternator indicator light needs to be a bulb with a filament, vs. an LED. Though if you have an LED set up with a resistor so that it will work with 12 volts (maybe you have a test light that uses an LED instead of a light bulb?), you can try that LED in place of the bulb you initially used and see if the alternator functions normally.


Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I'm going to stay with being able to turn off the lights completely, that's what I wanted in the first place.

That's the only diagram I got with the switch gear. B/C provide +12 when switched and I'm running those to each headlight relay to click em on.
Gotcha. Currently you have 2 relays, one each connected to the high and low headlight switch outputs (I'm just going to say in the 'typical' fashion, because I know you are familiar with relays), then each relay output powers one HID ballast. Is that right?

If so, there's an easy way to keep the low beam on when the high beam is switched on.



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Old 11-11-2011, 11:00 PM   #274
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Rob called Mrs. larryboy around 7:00 from Big Pine. The bike's running fine - but his hands are frozen. Seems like he rode through some snow.

I guess he left after 11:00 a.m.

Maybe he left at 11:11 on 11/11/11 just to make sure he'd get through the portal when it opens up in 11 minutes from now.

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Old 11-12-2011, 12:02 AM   #275
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New to this thread, but love what you have done. Just read most of it...

Crazy question: I would sweat to god you were using a flux core MIG welder. I never saw a glimpse of the unit in any of the pics WHat were you using to weld the frame?
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:14 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nixels View Post
Maybe he left at 11:11 on 11/11/11 just to make sure he'd get through the portal when it opens up in 11 minutes from now.

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Old 11-12-2011, 09:52 PM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I'm going to stay with being able to turn off the lights completely, that's what I wanted in the first place.

That's the only diagram I got with the switch gear. B/C provide +12 when switched and I'm running those to each headlight relay to click em on.
For when you get back from your shakedown cruise...

I'm going with that you have 2 relays, one each connected to the high and low headlight switch outputs (I'm just going to say in the 'typical' fashion, because I know you are familiar with relays), then each relay output powers one HID ballast.

If so, there's an easy way to keep the low beam on when the high beam is switched on.

You probably have 2 circuits similar to this one below. 1 each for the low beam and high beam HID ballasts.




Make this change to the low beam circuit only. Add the blue wire as shown. The blue wire is 'relay output feedback' say, and will latch the low beam relay on. With this circuit, when the low beam is switched on, it will stay on until the ignition is switched off.





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Old 11-16-2011, 12:25 AM   #278
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Awesome!! Thanks, Poolside!!!


Don't have time to chat, but does somebody with more time on their hands have a parts list ready for stripped splines on the trans input? I'm going to go ahead and assume that it stripped the shaft and the clutch. What seals do I need and what not?

None of my changes gave me any trouble...is there a wet clutch to chain drive conversion out there?

I forgot to account for the rich acc pump nozzles using more fuel than during highway droning when I was on dirt. The tank holds 6.13 gallons and I didn't have to push, it sputtered right up to the pump.

20 hour day with some time freezing my ass off waiting for rescue up near 7,000 feet.


More in the AM.

Thanks for any help on what parts I need.

I'm still going to try to make our trip happen, next day parts or whatever it takes. I might have to spend a couple of days of our time off wrenching, but there is a snow storm predicted for Saturday anyways.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:41 AM   #279
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:25 AM   #280
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Don't have time to chat, but does somebody with more time on their hands have a parts list ready for stripped splines on the trans input? I'm going to go ahead and assume that it stripped the shaft and the clutch. What seals do I need and what not?
Take it apart first I think. The clutch splines can be stripped out, and the gearbox input shaft still have some miles left on it.

There's a low-mile input shaft on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-R1150GS-...-/360409045281

I happened to have the parts list below handy. I did this search about a month ago for my bike, and saved the results to a text file. Below are all the OE gearbox bearings and seals. The only part not included is the input shaft.

Input Shaft bearings
Front 23122330176 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 20X47X14 $25.29
Rear 23122330175 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 17X35X10 $20.11

Intermediate Shaft bearings
Front 23127654290 CLEAN BEARING GROOVED BALL BEARING - 25X52X15 0.28 $63.60
Rear 23127654290 CLEAN BEARING GROOVED BALL BEARING - 25X52X15 0.28 $63.60

Output Shaft bearings
Front 23117687089 CLEAN BEARING GROOVED BALL BEARING - 25X52X15 0.28 $30.47
Rear 23117687089 CLEAN BEARING GROOVED BALL BEARING - 25X52X15 0.28 $30.47

Input Shaft Seals
Front 23127705086 SHAFT SEAL - 20X32X8 0.02 $15.92
Rear 23127705085 SHAFT SEAL, DRIVE SHAFT - 17X28X7 0.02 $14.45

Output Shaft Seal
23121340324 SHAFT SEAL, OUTPUT SHAFT - 25X40X6 0.02 $15.92
23121340324 was superseded by 23122330135
23122330135 SHAFT SEAL - 25X40X6 0.02 $15.92

Shift Drum Shaft Seal
23122332884 SHAFT SEAL - 10X18X6 $11.60

Shift Lever Shaft Seal
23122330139 SHAFT SEAL - 14X22X5 $13.03


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Old 11-16-2011, 05:07 AM   #281
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Shaft

If the input shaft is your problem you will also need a clutch plate. First check your drive shaft on a few occasions I have seen the rubber center damper let go and spin inside the drive shaft tube.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:07 AM   #282
larryboy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Take it apart first I think. The clutch splines can be stripped out, and the gearbox input shaft still have some miles left on it.

There's a low-mile input shaft on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-R1150GS-...-/360409045281

Thanks man!! I messaged the seller to see if he can do it next day air. I think I'll plan for the worst and hope it's just the clutch splines when I take it apart. I doubt it because it went with a bang. If I end up with some extra parts I'll kick them your way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by euromotorcycles View Post
If the input shaft is your problem you will also need a clutch plate. First check your drive shaft on a few occasions I have seen the rubber center damper let go and spin inside the drive shaft tube.

I was hoping for the driveshaft damper, but it makes the super cool grinding noise in neutral too.


I had just pulled a 7500 foot pass, crested and up shifted to sixth and bang...shifted around to see if maybe I had just lost sixth, but made a racket in all gears...found neutral and coasted down to a nice balmy 6,000 feet, got lucky and found a cell signal.

Now I know why I see these things in trailers all around the west, they must be broken.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:31 AM   #283
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I had just pulled a 7500 foot pass, crested and up shifted to sixth and bang...
I made my 1100 GS go bang too...it was the u joint at the final drive...

But, mine happened in the city at 20 mph.

That's why I love my XRR so much...german engineering...

They have great ideas...but, they lost the war.

Glad you got home safe.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:39 AM   #284
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Drama, drama, drama.

Why can't you write a nice simple fairy tale story about putting a few minor changes on a bike and riding into the sunset?



I'm glad the major FI/carburetor and attendant electronic ignition conversion worked.

:popcorn Looking forward to more stories!
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:40 AM   #285
larryboy OP
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Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
I made my 1100 GS go bang too...it was the u joint at the final drive...

But, mine happened in the city at 20 mph.

That's why I love my XRR so much...german engineering...

They have great ideas...but, they lost the war.

Glad you got home safe.

Yeah, there were some houses around, but I was dressed for cold and I didn't want the CHP to tow the bike if I wasn't right there with it.

Two cars stopped to check on me...I knew the second guy and he stayed with me until my wife got there. Ride 350 miles and a guy you see once a year pulls up and helps me out...gotta love it!!

Hmmm...my very first BMW and the only bike I've owned that has left me completely stranded.

For a third world break down I wonder if a guy could pull the starter and weld the clutch hub to the shaft?
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