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Old 08-09-2012, 02:20 PM   #406
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:53 AM   #407
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Still riding it, going good:

www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=816743





I've got to come up with a way to make for an easier throttle pull and have it figured out, just need to build it. I'm going to pick up all the tools/supplies for making my own throttle cables, then I can build my 'throttle effort reducer'.
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Old 08-18-2012, 06:20 PM   #408
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Still riding it, going good:

I've got to come up with a way to make for an easier throttle pull and have it figured out, just need to build it. I'm going to pick up all the tools/supplies for making my own throttle cables, then I can build my 'Throttle Effort Reducer'.
Great to see, Rob! 

Post up those TER© pics when you get there.


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Old 08-19-2012, 06:20 PM   #409
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Post up those TER© pics when you get there.


It's a pretty simple idea...think block and tackle.


So far the only downside to the mods I've made is the amount of effort it takes to open two Mikuni's.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:03 PM   #410
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It's a pretty simple idea...think block and tackle.

So far the only downside to the mods I've made is the amount of effort it takes to open two Mikuni's.
I see. Trade distance for force with leverage. I hope that doesn't result in a too-much-turn throttle.

I have no idea, do the cable drums use a clockspring for a return? If so, maybe the locating point for the clockspring can be relocated. You know, reduce the preload.


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Old 08-19-2012, 07:54 PM   #411
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I see. Trade distance for force with leverage. I hope that doesn't result in a too-much-turn throttle.

I have no idea, do the cable drums use a clockspring for a return? If so, maybe the locating point for the clockspring can be relocated. You know, reduce the preload.


If I reduce the current spring preload the slides travel by themselves, danger!!
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:03 PM   #412
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Oh, yea, that could be an E-ticket

How did you end up splitting the push/pull cables 1-into-2 and 2-into-1 ?


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Old 08-19-2012, 08:15 PM   #413
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Oh, yea, that could be an E-ticket

How did you end up splitting the push/pull cables 1-into-2 and 2-into-1 ?


Motion "Pro" provided a splitter, single from the throttle tube to splitter, two cables from there to the carbs.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:35 PM   #414
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Larryboy,
What a great build and thanks for posting this link in my frame thread. Been a great read and some great things to look for and look OUT for if I do a similar build.

As far as the slide opening under less spring preload, I am curious how that happens with a push pull throttle? The can not move if the return cable is set at the right tension....at least as far as my experience with the flat slide carbs on my Yz450s and KTMs.

In the desert we often run with only the pull cable if we bust one. We use the push/return cable like it is a spare cable.

It seems like I saw a Harley in your garage in one pic, they have very drag on the throtlle and sometimes require you to manually return the throttle, that always works. Not saying you would ever want to use that in the dirt, manual return I mean, but a lighter spring on the throttle return springs should not stop the return.

I agree with Pool, if you use a block and tackle or different leverage system for the throttle Ys that would work, but it will definately add distance to the twist of the grip.

On my KTM 530 EXCR I went to Moose throttle tube with different cams on the lobe for shorter throttle pull more like a MX bike. I never like the long twist on the EXCR, it was almost 180* rotation for full throttle. With the switchable cam systems I was able to get it down to about a 90* full throttle twist and it reall added to the snappy feel of the bike, more MX/SX bike like I am ussed to.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:03 AM   #415
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Good points, kellymac!! I don't have a ton of experience with these carbs, but I tried reducing the spring pressure past the last adjustment nub and at idle without a hand on the throttle it revs itself. With a hand on the throttle tube I can use the push cable to hold the idle. Like you say, manual return isn't what you want on a motorcycle and it's downright dangerous.

I haven't done anything to her, just been riding it.

Last trip:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=842291


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Old 11-22-2012, 11:00 AM   #416
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I am wondering if changing to the different cams on the Moose style TT would help or hurt????

It sounds as though you have already tried to take some tension off of the rotary springs on the carbs themselves with little effect.
I am wondering of eliminating those round springs on the carbs themselves and trying some slightly longer but softer straight springs, more like an old car carburetor would use, might work.
My reasoning, possibly flawed, is that a rotary spring must have a certain amount of preload to be effective and the rising rate of the spring is pretty steep making a tough pull when that is doubled on your twin carn setup. Whereas a longer straight spring could in effect have the same initial tension but by being longer you could keep the pull tension a little more linear...I hope that makes sense...?

On one side carb that might be easy, but on the one side that the linkage arm is outboard this may not work very well with a long spring sticking out in space....Possible with some finagling and planing though. Might be worth a try.

I am absolutely sure you have checked and double checked but it may be worth a mention, have you made sure there is no bind on the cable anywhere? Rotated the throttle tube with the ends both disconnected fron the carbs to make sure there is not some pull or friction adding to the issue?

I think the issue stems from just having 2 carbs pulling on your hand.

You are a real inspiation for me right now...I am close to pulling the trigger and stripping my RT down and going for it.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:08 AM   #417
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I think the issue stems from just having 2 carbs pulling on your hand.

That's about what it boils down to. In hindsight I should have gone with CV carbs, but these things were only $250 each and brand new. On the plus side, if I swap the BringMoreWrenches over to CV's I can use the TM's on a couple of XRR's.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:16 AM   #418
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Here is the moose catalog link. The throttle tubes and adjustable cams are on the top left of page 66

http://www.mooseracing.com/
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:23 AM   #419
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That's about what it boils down to. In hindsight I should have gone with CV carbs, but these things were only $250 each and brand new. On the plus side, if I swap the BringMoreWrenches over to CV's I can use the TM's on a couple of XRR's.
NOOOOOOOOO

I hate CV carbs and would NEVER consider riding any real dirt with them again....I almost got killed 3 or 4 times on a KTM that had a CV carb on it, a 2000 SXC 400 Lc4 motor bike had one on it for smog reasons and the bog out on any hard hit in the dirt. Not even jumping it, just any hard G-out where the suspensing compresses hard or bottoms out the vacum slides slam shut causing the carbs to right when you need acceleration to drive through the G-out. Instead it bogs and causes the rearend to buck violently spitting you over the bars...all fixed with a $400.00 Sudco kit. Never happened again and ran WAY better.

You still would have a return spring on a CV carb anyway on each carb so I am not sure it would stop the issue you are fighting.....not sure though.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:28 AM   #420
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NOOOOOOOOO

I hate CV carbs and would NEVER consider riding any real dirt with them again....I almost got killed 3 or 4 times on a KTM that had a CV carb on it, a 2000 SXC 400 Lc4 motor bike had one on it for smog reasons and the bog out on any hard hit in the dirt. Not even jumping it, just any hard G-out where the suspensing compresses hard or bottoms out the vacum slides slam shut causing the carbs to right when you need acceleration to drive through the G-out. Instead it bogs and causes the rearend to buck violently spitting you over the bars...all fixed with a $400.00 Sudco kit. Never happened again and ran WAY better.

You still would have a return spring on a CV carb anyway on each carb so I am not sure it would stop the issue you are fighting.....not sure though.

I ain't jumping this thing, the earth would crack right down the middle if I did.

Return spring on a CV doesn't have to return the slide, just the throttle plate, that's why the spring is so small on the CV carb...like BMW used to do their bikes, CV Bings or whatever they used.
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