Overgrown Offroad Zombie - Page 4

Poolside · 09-25-2011, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Anybody know what the heck I should do for throttle cables? I'm supposed to run a push and a pull on each carb, gather them up, then push/pull from the throttle tube. Probably be easy to figure out when I'm not so tired tomorrow...oh for an 1150 thumper with one carb.

Flander's Cables should have everything you'll need www.flanderscables.com

They have 1-into-2 splitter boxes for the 'throttle open' cables. Use the same part backward, 2-into-1 that is, for the 'throttle close' cables.

Poolside · 09-25-2011, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Things inbound for the project;

Coil is here, ignition box is on the way.

Battery, lightweight. Considering this one: http://shop.testsycl.com/1-BALLISTIC...Cell-EVO-2.htm

I'm looking forward to to fitting that ignition. I wish I could come up.

The 12-cell battery should work fine. An 8 cell will also work acceptably. Inside that battery, 4 of the 3.6 volt A123 Systems cells are connected in series to make '12 volts'. Then 3 rows in parallel, of 4 the cells in series (aka: 4S3P), gives the current rating.

Hey what model is that Acewell dash? Does it have temperature display and gear position readout? Even if the display is for water temp, it still may be usable for oil temp, all depends on the sensor input. And it might be possible to rig the gear position switches to work, if that Acewell has a gear position display that is.

JimVonBaden · 09-25-2011, 08:41 AM

Looking great!

Do you have any plans to replace that rear rack? It is notoriously weak, and could be much more functional. You might even lose a few pounds with something custom.

Jim

Nixels · 09-25-2011, 09:07 AM

So Mrs Larryboy wants you riding on a bumblebee? So everyone knows they're likely to get stung if they get too close?

Looks good. I like that you fab on the frame to keep it simple & straight.

larryboy · 09-25-2011, 09:46 AM

I'll check out those guys for cable stuff, thanks Jim!!!

The Acewell is a 3701 that I bought for another project that has stalled out for now, so I've stolen a few parts from it. The main reason I got this model originally was for the tach as that bike revs to 12k or something. Not sure what features this thing has. I've been trucking through the mechanical stuff as that's easy for me, I'm weaker when it comes to electrical and want plenty of my time dedicated to the electrical system...full scratch built harness.

What part of the rear rack is weak, JVB? Something on the back is tweaked a bit and it's been tough to just ignore it and get my numbers right on the front graft. I'm going to put a backrest and a Happy Trails flat deck on the back, but don't intend to carry any real amount of weight back there.

Yes, Mrs LB likes the BumbleBee look. Oh yeah, I'm going to work in a couple of passenger grab handles and will put some Polly Heaters in them for the passenger.

SFKLR · 09-25-2011, 11:12 AM

Passenger grip heaters? Not even the k1600LT has those--I don't think.

larryboy · 09-25-2011, 11:24 AM

I was going to get her some heated gloves, but we ride a lot and wear out tons of expensive gloves as it is. She uses grab handles if the bike has them and I have a spare set of Polly Heaters...why not?

JimVonBaden · 09-25-2011, 02:09 PM

The silver aluminum part often breaks right in the middle by the vertical grip. If you can, it would be worth your while to at least reinforce it. Or, better yet, replace it with a purpose built tube rack.

Jim

larryboy · 09-25-2011, 02:46 PM

Yeah, I can see what you mean there. I'll add a strut from the rear bag mount tab that will run around to hold up the tail plate. Thanks for the heads up!!! Muchas Gracias!!

larryboy · 09-25-2011, 02:48 PM

Oh yeah, I was going to make the new muffler box out of some stout stuff, but it looks like I can go with thinner material if I just make a skid plate for the center stand.

Poolside · 09-25-2011, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

I'll check out those guys for cable stuff, thanks Jim!!!

The Acewell is a 3701 that I bought for another project that has stalled out for now, so I've stolen a few parts from it. The main reason I got this model originally was for the tach as that bike revs to 12k or something. Not sure what features this thing has.

Sure, that Flander's Co. has everything.

3701 is a basic model. Indicators are listed as: left turn, right turn, neutral, and high beam.
http://www.acewell-meter.com/c0_1.php?pid=5&bid=11

Something for your whiteboard: Get the crankshaft to 60° before TDC, and figure out a way to lock it there. Do not use the front crank pulley for any locking mechanism you may devise. The front crank pulley must be accessible to remove and replace during the ignition modifications you'll be doing.

larryboy · 09-25-2011, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poolside

Something for your whiteboard: Get the crankshaft to 60° before TDC, and figure out a way to lock it there. Do not use the front crank pulley for any locking mechanism you may devise. The front crank pulley must be accessible to remove and replace during the ignition modifications you'll be doing.

Ok, I'll come up with something.

Poolside · 09-25-2011, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Ok, I'll come up with something.

Maybe "lock" is too strong of a word. A fine line mark, and a fixed pointer to that mark will work. You'll just have to be more careful if the crank isn't actually locked in place.

Maybe a fine line mark on the crank pulley, and a rigid pointer 'bracket' fixed in place using a couple of the alternator belt front plastic cover bolts would work. Or the other way around, hang the pointer off the pulley, and put the mark on the motor front cover. Maybe clamp the pointer to the pulley with a large band clamp, without scratching the drive belt vee-groves.

The primary consideration is the mark or pointer on the crank pulley needs to be located so the pulley can be removed and replaced from the crank without knocking the pointer out of adjustment. You'll be taking a die grinder to the 'timing window' on the backside of the crank pulley, so allow for doing that without knocking the 60°BTDC pointer out of alignment.

larryboy · 09-25-2011, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poolside

You'll be taking a die grinder to the 'timing window' on the backside of the crank pulley, so allow for doing that without knocking the 60°BTDC pointer out of alignment.

Gotchya, no problemo...I have the "technology".

villageidiot · 09-25-2011, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

...oh for an 1150 thumper with one carb.

small progressive weber??

09-25-2011, 08:41 AM	#48
JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Joined: Feb 2005 Location: Alexandria, VA Oddometer: 41,483	Looking great! Do you have any plans to replace that rear rack? It is notoriously weak, and could be much more functional. You might even lose a few pounds with something custom. Jim __________________ Click here for BMW Maintenance and Repair DVDs and Corrections. "Combo-Order Discounts!"

09-25-2011, 09:07 AM	#49
Nixels Face fears - live life Joined: Sep 2006 Location: West Oakland, CA Oddometer: 7,371	So Mrs Larryboy wants you riding on a bumblebee? So everyone knows they're likely to get stung if they get too close? Looks good. I like that you fab on the frame to keep it simple & straight. __________________ Coffee first, then all your other mundane bullshit. Benjava That tofu will kill you, stay away from it. Soy is the devils bean! moe.ron SmugMug coupon: cwbkgu7KGL2D2/save $5

09-25-2011, 02:09 PM	#53
JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Joined: Feb 2005 Location: Alexandria, VA Oddometer: 41,483	The silver aluminum part often breaks right in the middle by the vertical grip. If you can, it would be worth your while to at least reinforce it. Or, better yet, replace it with a purpose built tube rack. Jim __________________ Click here for BMW Maintenance and Repair DVDs and Corrections. "Combo-Order Discounts!"

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09-25-2011, 09:46 AM	#50
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,846	I'll check out those guys for cable stuff, thanks Jim!!! The Acewell is a 3701 that I bought for another project that has stalled out for now, so I've stolen a few parts from it. The main reason I got this model originally was for the tach as that bike revs to 12k or something. Not sure what features this thing has. I've been trucking through the mechanical stuff as that's easy for me, I'm weaker when it comes to electrical and want plenty of my time dedicated to the electrical system...full scratch built harness. What part of the rear rack is weak, JVB? Something on the back is tweaked a bit and it's been tough to just ignore it and get my numbers right on the front graft. I'm going to put a backrest and a Happy Trails flat deck on the back, but don't intend to carry any real amount of weight back there. Yes, Mrs LB likes the BumbleBee look. Oh yeah, I'm going to work in a couple of passenger grab handles and will put some Polly Heaters in them for the passenger.

09-25-2011, 11:12 AM	#51
SFKLR BeniciaKTM? Joined: Jun 2006 Location: Benicia, CA Oddometer: 1,000	Passenger grip heaters? Not even the k1600LT has those--I don't think.

09-25-2011, 11:24 AM	#52
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,846	I was going to get her some heated gloves, but we ride a lot and wear out tons of expensive gloves as it is. She uses grab handles if the bike has them and I have a spare set of Polly Heaters...why not?

09-25-2011, 02:46 PM	#54
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,846	Yeah, I can see what you mean there. I'll add a strut from the rear bag mount tab that will run around to hold up the tail plate. Thanks for the heads up!!! Muchas Gracias!!

09-25-2011, 02:48 PM	#55
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,846	Oh yeah, I was going to make the new muffler box out of some stout stuff, but it looks like I can go with thinner material if I just make a skid plate for the center stand.