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Old 09-25-2011, 06:17 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I was going to get her some heated gloves, but we ride a lot and wear out tons of expensive gloves as it is. She uses grab handles if the bike has them and I have a spare set of Polly Heaters...why not?
there's more where those came from if you need foot peg heaters, and no the 1600whatever don't got those either
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:55 AM   #62
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The 12-cell battery should work fine. An 8 cell will also work acceptably. Inside that battery, 4 of the 3.6 volt A123 Systems cells are connected in series to make '12 volts'. Then 3 rows in parallel, of 4 the cells in series (aka: 4S3P), gives the current rating.


Ordered the 12 cell, I don't want to play around with not enough CCA's on a zero degree morning in the middle of nowhere by ourselves. I'm going to do a battery disconnect switch instead of a keyed ignition.

Didn't do much yesterday, needed a day off and I noticed that my plan for one of the trellis tubes is really close to the carbs, I'm going to wait for the manifolds to mockup a little better.
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:49 AM   #63
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The 20w fork oil will probably give you a nasty high-speed spike. Those forks take 5w stock and aftermarket tuners tend to run goldvalves (larger orifice) or thinner oil. On the heavy bike I might go to the 7.5w oil, but don't think I'd go thicker and first off I'd try to re-valve for more low speed damping in both directions and stick with 5w. 5w will also change less with temp so you won't feel it fade as much
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:03 AM   #64
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Aftermarket suspension tuners are also going for a full soft ride, I'm not. I'll probably go with longer pre-load spacers to get it to coil bind before the engine hits the ground.

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Old 09-26-2011, 11:44 AM   #65
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Sorry to bother you.


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Old 09-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #66
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Sorry to bother you.



Oh come on, Jim. Didn't mean to hurt your feelers, sorry.


I mean lets think about it, nothing has changed except the bike lost 100 pounds. If the engine wasn't supposed to be a stressed member, then why do they still build them that way? I can't believe that the original design of the front suspension works at all with those little struts that the coil hangs on to keep the whole front end from hinging over on itself.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:52 AM   #67
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Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.




Also found some diamond scrap to make a center stand skidplate, I'll weld tabs to the stand and bolt the plate on.

Made up some shim blocks for the front seat mounts, about 3/8" taller than stock. I'll probably pull the tank pads off since they don't match the lines of the seat now.

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Old 09-28-2011, 11:28 AM   #68
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Curious about your front fender options ....
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:49 AM   #69
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Curious about your front fender options ....

Universal from UFO, haven't put it on yet because I don't want welding spatter on it:




Headlights just got here:

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Old 09-28-2011, 09:27 PM   #70
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Rob......Just.........
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:10 PM   #71
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Rob......Just.........

Thanks, having fun with it.


Finally got an email back from SuperPlush, .49 is about as stiff as I can go with these forks. I could cut a few coils to increase the rate, then take up the room with longer spacers if needed. I should be pretty close with the .49 rate I think, this is a two-up dirt sight seeing bike, close is good enough.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:01 PM   #72
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Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.

Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15° of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.


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Old 09-29-2011, 07:09 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15° of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.

Damn you are smart!

Jim
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:13 PM   #74
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:16 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15° of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.


I need to pick up a new iron as mine croaked awhile back, but I can melt solder.

I've got the hub on the desk in front of me and the timing gap is right across from what I now know is the balance window on the front...learn something new every day!! Makes perfect sense now that you mention it, won't be any problem to balance it out!!
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