Overgrown Offroad Zombie - Page 6

larryboy · 09-29-2011, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garthe

Yellow fork boots got here today. Figured out the exhaust and started building that.

Buddy came over and did a VIN verification on my non-plated XRR, I might have to jump on that for a day so I can get a lamp inspection done...I miss not thumping.

Looks like we're getting a break in the weather soon, that's one of the hottest Septembers I can remember since living here...July and August were pretty nice for a change.

Nixels · 09-30-2011, 07:15 AM

Not bad...

For a guy with a headache.

Looks like it's coming together nicely Rob.

Now get some studded leather, spike heeled boots, dye your hair, put on that special Motley Crue facepaint and ride that thing to WMRS next year!

Poolside · 09-30-2011, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.

A couple more things about that. The Hall sensor plate must be in place during the hub modification. The paper degree wheel must account for that.

The Hall sensor is adjusted before the paper degree wheel is attached. After the degree wheel is attached you will not need access to the sensor screws.

I don't know if you plan to use the degree wheel with a scribed-line pointer on the hub. If you do, the above will be relevant.

larryboy · 09-30-2011, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poolside

A couple more things about that. The Hall sensor plate must be in place during the hub modification. The paper degree wheel must account for that.

The Hall sensor is adjusted before the paper degree wheel is attached. After the degree wheel is attached you will not need access to the sensor screws.

I don't know if you plan to use the degree wheel with a scribed-line pointer on the hub. If you do, the above will be relevant.

I was thinking of using the degree wheel to find 60 BTDC, making a pointer, then getting the degree wheel out of the way.

You lead, I'll follow.

Gotta run to work.

Still waiting on carb manifolds and the ignition box, I hope Volker didn't forget me.

Poolside · 09-30-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

I was thinking of using the degree wheel to find 60 BTDC, making a pointer, then getting the degree wheel out of the way.

You lead, I'll follow.

Well I don't know, we're both doing a little of both. You're the guy doing the work over there, I'm taking cues from you as well.

About the degree wheel and pointer and related, you get it just fine. I didn't know how far you were going with that paper degree wheel. One mark at 60 BTDC is enough.

Whiteboard stuff:

- I think BMW sells what they call a 'repair plug' that plugs into the Hall sensor cable. That will save you from cutting the connector from the factory harness, or conversely, cutting the connector off the sensor cable and splicing the wires directly.

- This ignition system uses only one of the Hall sensors. That leaves the other sensor that might be used as a backup. See if the sensor plate can be mounted 'upside down' to the front cover. This way, if the first sensor should fail, you can rotate the plate 180 degrees and use the second sensor.

- There's one more but I just forgot what it was

larryboy · 09-30-2011, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poolside

Well I don't know, we're both doing a little of both. You're the guy doing the work over there, I'm taking cues from you as well.

About the degree wheel and pointer and related, you get it just fine. I didn't know how far you were going with that paper degree wheel. One mark at 60 BTDC is enough.

Whiteboard stuff:

- I think BMW sells what they call a 'repair plug' that plugs into the Hall sensor cable. That will save you from cutting the connector from the factory harness, or conversely, cutting the connector off the sensor cable and splicing the wires directly.

- This ignition system uses only one of the Hall sensors. That leaves the other sensor that might be used as a backup. See if the sensor plate can be mounted 'upside down' to the front cover. This way, if the first sensor should fail, you can rotate the plate 180 degrees and use the second sensor.

- There's one more but I just forgot what it was

Yup, just using the degree wheel to find the 60 and mark it.

I'm cool with cutting the plug off the hall sensor and putting a new end on it. I have some ready made deutch connectors ready to go...two wires? I can make a three or more if needed.

Cool, a backup sensor!!

I'll work my tail off tomorrow, it's progress time. I'll have to mock up the carbs the best I can and get my final tubing welded in...still no manifolds, I think the shipping said Oct 6th as the latest delivery date.

troidus · 10-01-2011, 12:35 AM

Forgive me for asking, but what are you gaining by doing the mods?

larryboy · 10-01-2011, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troidus

Forgive me for asking, but what are you gaining by doing the mods?

$3,000 and a weight reduction of 149 pounds.

Poolside · 10-01-2011, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

I'm cool with cutting the plug off the hall sensor and putting a new end on it. I have some ready made deutch connectors ready to go...two wires? I can make a three or more if needed.

And I support that kind of initiative. The thing is the sensor cable is shielded, and for many reasons it would be better to break the shield after the connector than before. The primary reason is you'll then have a known-good timing input to work with. And to both our advantage, troubleshooting from 400 miles away is something I'd like to limit. If I was there, well, it'd be a different story

149 pounds? Wow!

El Brad · 10-01-2011, 09:48 AM

Will we see this bike in another Death Valley ride report

larryboy · 10-01-2011, 09:56 AM

That RF shielded stuff, Jim? I can get some of that. Probably easier to just change the end, I can do weatherpak too.

Yes, this bike is going to DV in six weeks for a shakedown, then I'll come home and get ready for the longer two up trip to DV.

Edit: Crizzap, thought I had a rotor and pads on the way from Beemer Boneyard, checked to see where it was and it seems I missed 5 steps out of their 35 step purchase system. Glad I looked...on the way now.

larryboy · 10-01-2011, 01:50 PM

Got some weld in bungs for the petcocks and the carb flanges today. Flanges are wrong, exactly the same size as the BMW ones...that earlier part number will get you replacement flanges for your BMW 1150 with EFI if you need them.

This is why I say I don't have time to being doing stuff twice, now I need to do hours of research looking for the right flanges...dangit.

Making good progress with the frame, pictures later.

Nixels · 10-01-2011, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Got some weld in bungs for the petcocks and the carb flanges today. Flanges are wrong, exactly the same size as the BMW ones...that earlier part number will get you replacement flanges for your BMW 1150 with EFI if you need them.

This is why I say I don't have time to being doing stuff twice, now I need to do hours of research looking for the right flanges...dangit.

Making good progress with the frame, pictures later.

Yabbut you got to go to the dealer and see shiny new bikes and Italian scooters.

larryboy · 10-01-2011, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixels

Yabbut you got to go to the dealer and see shiny new bikes and Italian scooters.

The dealer was alright...not sure what they're thinking with the pricing.

The loaded Super Tenere was at Cycle Gear...waay cool, that is the future.

larryboy · 10-01-2011, 06:12 PM

Ok todays progress...I'm having to estimate where the carbs will end up, which made me push this lower tube in further than I really wanted. I'll have to pull the whole frame for finish welding now as I can't get position on the back of this tube.

Just gonna post the pictures for now. I'll answer questions if they come up.

One more tube to put in on the left side, then I can plan the battery and coil mounting. Thinking about just welding panels in for the airbox, was really hoping to have the right flanges for full mockup, I'll just call Sudco on Monday...time is short.

09-30-2011, 07:15 AM	#77
Nixels Face fears - live life Joined: Sep 2006 Location: West Oakland, CA Oddometer: 7,373	Not bad... For a guy with a headache. Looks like it's coming together nicely Rob. Now get some studded leather, spike heeled boots, dye your hair, put on that special Motley Crue facepaint and ride that thing to WMRS next year! __________________ Coffee first, then all your other mundane bullshit. Benjava That tofu will kill you, stay away from it. Soy is the devils bean! moe.ron SmugMug coupon: cwbkgu7KGL2D2/save $5

10-01-2011, 09:48 AM	#85
El Brad Leave it long on top Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Twin Falls, Idaho Oddometer: 360	Will we see this bike in another Death Valley ride report __________________ *************************************** "THE KLR IS LIKE THE PERFECT TACO, WHEN YOU WANT SOMETHING CHEAP, HEARTY AND SATISFYING, NOTHING ELSE WILL DO." -- Jamie Elvidge -- ***************************************

10-01-2011, 09:56 AM	#86
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,870	That RF shielded stuff, Jim? I can get some of that. Probably easier to just change the end, I can do weatherpak too. Yes, this bike is going to DV in six weeks for a shakedown, then I'll come home and get ready for the longer two up trip to DV. Edit: Crizzap, thought I had a rotor and pads on the way from Beemer Boneyard, checked to see where it was and it seems I missed 5 steps out of their 35 step purchase system. Glad I looked...on the way now. larryboy screwed with this post 10-01-2011 at 10:04 AM

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10-01-2011, 12:35 AM	#82
troidus Beastly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2010 Oddometer: 6,937	Forgive me for asking, but what are you gaining by doing the mods?

10-01-2011, 01:50 PM	#87
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,870	Got some weld in bungs for the petcocks and the carb flanges today. Flanges are wrong, exactly the same size as the BMW ones...that earlier part number will get you replacement flanges for your BMW 1150 with EFI if you need them. This is why I say I don't have time to being doing stuff twice, now I need to do hours of research looking for the right flanges...dangit. Making good progress with the frame, pictures later.

10-01-2011, 06:12 PM	#90
larryboy ^OP Paint it black. Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Über Alles,Ca Oddometer: 12,870	Ok todays progress...I'm having to estimate where the carbs will end up, which made me push this lower tube in further than I really wanted. I'll have to pull the whole frame for finish welding now as I can't get position on the back of this tube. Just gonna post the pictures for now. I'll answer questions if they come up. One more tube to put in on the left side, then I can plan the battery and coil mounting. Thinking about just welding panels in for the airbox, was really hoping to have the right flanges for full mockup, I'll just call Sudco on Monday...time is short.