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Old 09-23-2011, 12:56 PM   #16
mung
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GM Blue

On my Raga I change the GM blue at around 10 hours and there is never any metal on the drain plug.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:20 PM   #17
BikePilot
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Elf HTX740 works amazingly well in my montesa. I'm told the montesa clutch is really picky about its oil and mine worked badly with whatever the PO had in there, but its works really nicely with the elf stuff. It's very expensive, but it doesn't go off quickly and doesn't need terribly frequent changes so overall cost isn't too bad. Even if it had to be changed all the time the improvement in clutch action would be worth it to me.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:53 PM   #18
ryone OP
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Well I was all set to chande the trany oil, and now I find that the drain plug is stripped. I will work on getting it out tonight, but where is the best place to find a replacement?
I was able to find ATF type F at the local autozone for $7 a quart if anyone else is on the hunt for it.
Ok now to try to find GAsGas parts, or if anyone has a spare i'll take it off your hands for a fair price.
Ryone.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:13 PM   #19
DRRambler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VEGASGSA View Post
Notice that the application listing is consistent with some of the previous posts remarks regarding Type F fluid. Any universal type ATF will have this exclusion because Type F is that much different. Modern ATF's really are similar with some variations in viscosity, friction modifiers, additive packages etc. And most current quality ATF's are synthetic blends.

Here is a good Evaluation

If you are going to spend the $ on the blue stuff, may as well look into some of the products available from the aftermarket. Look into BG Products Synchroshift.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:19 PM   #20
motorcyclemark
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I've also had really good luck with the ProHonda CR/CRF racing transmission fluid, which looks, smells, and feels just like type F ATF. Makes you wonder.......

I've been using this for the last couple of months with excellent results, fairly cheap and easy to find. Says Pro Honda HP transmission oil 80/85w on the bottle. I do agree it does look and feel like ATF.
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Old 10-07-2011, 02:55 PM   #21
WestNile
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Originally Posted by AteamNM View Post
..... If you change your oil very regularly, like every long 2-day event or 10 hours of riding, then ATF is, or at least appears to be just fine. ....

....I don't have an opinion, I just know we change our oil in our bikes very often, it is cheap and with Gas Gas, there is always metal crap on the plug.
My GG is an '03 and I have not seen a plug other than the fill plug at the top of the case cover. Am I missing it somewhere?
If that is it, do you drain the bike on it's side or something like that?

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:38 PM   #22
PSchrauber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post
Elf HTX740 works amazingly well in my montesa. I'm told the montesa clutch is really picky about its oil and mine worked badly with whatever the PO had in there, but its works really nicely with the elf stuff. It's very expensive, but it doesn't go off quickly and doesn't need terribly frequent changes so overall cost isn't too bad. Even if it had to be changed all the time the improvement in clutch action would be worth it to me.

Very truth, works even very good in older trials bikes like Yamaha TY and Bultaco. It improves cluth grip and in here Europe it's highly recommended and the best choice, the price ... well ... it is expensive but will last longer too as BikePilot already stated.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:27 AM   #23
ryone OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestNile View Post
My GG is an '03 and I have not seen a plug other than the fill plug at the top of the case cover. Am I missing it somewhere?
If that is it, do you drain the bike on it's side or something like that?

Thanks

look under the skidplate. There is a small hole in the skidplate that lets you drain the oil without removing it.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:03 PM   #24
toro618
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Reviving an older thread.

So what is the verdict on the Type F oil? I've been using GM Auto-Trak II Transfer Case Fluid for a while on my 2009 GasGas TXT250 with no problem that I know of...pretty snappy cltuch action but works fine.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:03 PM   #25
2whlrcr
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If you like it, I would keep using it. Just make sure you change the oil often in the Pros.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:17 AM   #26
toro618
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Originally Posted by 2whlrcr View Post
If you like it, I would keep using it. Just make sure you change the oil often in the Pros.

Yeah, I change it every 10 hours.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:33 AM   #27
Sting32
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I used to use the gym auto Trak2. about two maybe three years ago the boys over in the UK at Gas Gas UK said that there's some ingredient in that oil, well that causes the fiber clutches to swell at least for them. I feel now, that I too had this issue that I know of. Since I switched away from it I have not had to go in and change the metal plates to raise the finger height back to spec. Like I said I used it and tell my supply was gone and then switched that was in 2010 I think. I also don't keep my bikes as long as I used to but I haven't had to do any of adjusting on the fingers yet... knock on wood.

So I got away from it I use Yamalube semi-synthetic 0w30 or 5w30 whatever. I like it just as much as the auto Trak and I think its cheaper. Plain old type F, makes the clutch immediate. The auto Trakk and my yamalube, makes feathering the clutch a little easier, nicer, less instant.

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:55 AM   #28
laser17
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Sting - is this the stuff you like?
http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/spo...55/detail.aspx
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:31 AM   #29
motobene
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I don't go by fears and prohibitions, but on what proves to work well without problems. I suspect the synthetic oil concerns came from the early `90s GasGas (pre-Pro) fiber plates that were cheap and would swell. That is no longer an issue. Synthetics are generally superior performing oils. They should not be excluded without some hard scrutiny.

Clutch and transmission behavior is affected by friction coefficients and oil viscosity with respect to temperature. The GasGas pro 4-6 transmission and Bellville spring clutch designs feel as though they like lower oil viscosities. Not all ATFs are the same viscosity. I believe Type F (and old Ford spec) is the thickest of them. The design also likes lower friction coefficients, which synthetics will improve.

I discovered by accident that an inexpensive and very common full synthetic ATF noticeably and surprisingly improved shifting and clutch performance on my 280 GasGas and now my 300 Raga (which came with a hoitie toitie = expensive oil).

I don't get hung up on brands. I use whatever generics I can get my hands on at the time.

Specifically, I was having sticky shifting, some clutch drag too long into warm-up, and vague clutch feel with a GasGas 280. All I had was some ATF+4 around for one oil change, so I put that in instead of various Dexrons or Type F. An immediate, noticeable improvement in shifting, drag, and feel!

My latest bike is a Raga 300. It came from the previous owner with a pricey synthetic transmission lube. The clutch was objectionably vague feeling, so I again used the ATF+4 with noticeable improvements in clutch and transmission feel. But don't take my word for it. Try it.

Let me add that you should chose oil viscosity based on the clutch design. I'd definitely not use ATF+4 in any bike with an evil light-switch, fast engaging clutch (like the 4RT or Beta 250 & 300 4T). Lower viscosity oils will make light-switch clutches engage even more abruptly.

As an aside, here's a suggestion for you 4RT owners. Use the advantage you have of a separate-from-engine-oil case for clutch and tranny. Try very high viscosity oils to see if the evil fast-engaging clutch is tamed. You can mix your own custom thick oils by proportioning Like Lucas Transmission Saver with motor oil. Keep increasing the proportion of the Lucas (or 85-140 gear lube) until the clutch gets Ritalin or Adderal and hopefully stops bouncing off the walls. I've suggested that to a friend with a 4RT. Hope he takes it up. He rode my GasGas and said he sure wished his clutch had such a wide engagement zone.

motobene screwed with this post 07-03-2013 at 09:40 AM
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:52 AM   #30
toro618
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oil level

I always add 400cc's of oil, but at times that puts the level at above the sight glass...cannot see a little bubble....even after letting the oil settle in. When I just go by the sight glass, I pour until about 3/4-7/8 high.
Is the exact amount critical on a trials motor? Is it important to be able to see a little bubble in the sight glass?

thanks
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