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Old 04-07-2012, 11:23 PM   #181
JoelWisman
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It's not the laws here. Pretty much only California ha strong consumer advocacy laws, and it just makes goods more expensive there.

BMW has a reasonably good head office here. Parts boss for the last 8 months is a personal friend and very competent. If he runs out of too many things I will box him in the ears and he knows it lol
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:27 AM   #182
chadams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapuda View Post
So if the 82 RH 2015 master link fits the OEM chain does it follow that the 82 RH 2015 chain would fit the F800? If so how many links? At 40K miles my cam chain is noisy when the engine is hot. I am all for OEM parts unless aftermarket is better. I am also not a fan of a 6 week wait for the OEM.

Hats off to Dieselboy and Chadams for blazing the trail I will soon be following.
I thought the same but the inner plates on the 82 RH 2015 are different, the teeth are not as sharp, they have a rounded profile. It will fit but would jump, so a no go, stick with the OEM until someone like K&L makes one long enough. The OEM price for the chain is ok and on par for a cam chain.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:41 AM   #183
serguti
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Cam Chain -

Thanks guys for this thread!!.. My F8 is 2009 and with 55.000Km on it I can not wait to change the Cam Chain... I have some questions:

1. Can you please list the parts you used and where to purchase them (I live in Argentina and will need to order them online from the US)
2. How did you removed the old chain (I assume you broke it separation it and tied something "like a cord" to it and the broke the NEW chain and tied it to cord to pass it on the part not seeing if it was correctly engaged or not)
3. How did you checked if it was correctly engaged? (I assume putting the bike in gear and without turning it on try to move the engine from the wheel?)

thanks!!! and as soon as I get this info I will perform the work... and film it to update the thread.

Regards,
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:31 AM   #184
Indy Unlimited
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I just did mine using the "Chadams" method and the master link!
I purchased a new chain and pressed out a link and reused the 3 center plates with the new master!

Awesome solution!!! Thanks Chadams!
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:56 AM   #185
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I just did mine using the "Chadams" method and the master link!
I purchased a new chain and pressed out a link and reused the 3 center plates with the new master!

Awesome solution!!! Thanks Chadams!
Indy ... how many miles had you run up?
Looking at the OEM chain "was it time" ?
I'm wondering if we can collect some data to predict when this should be done...
50K miles or maybe that's too conservative?

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Old 04-19-2012, 01:11 PM   #186
Indy Unlimited
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Yeah I am up to 29K miles and it was time for the timing chain as it was stretched to end of being tensioned by the tensioner. I recommend changing the timing chain and a new chain tensioner at least on or near 30K point if you do the "Chadams" method.
I am also putting in the new stator (aftermarket and compufire series regulator in now as well)
The bike has very few weak engine points and I love this bike once you put real suspension on her. So if that means we change out the timing chain and check/rewind the stator every 30K I can live with that.
This bike amazes me where she will go and what she can do. Most versatile bike I have ever owned!
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:17 PM   #187
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Yeah I am up to 29K miles and it was time for the timing chain as it was stretched to end of being tensioned by the tensioner. I recommend changing the timing chain and a new chain tensioner at least on or near 30K point if you do the "Chadams" method.
I am also putting in the new stator (aftermarket and compufire series regulator in now as well)
The bike has very few weak engine points and I love this bike once you put real suspension on her. So if that means we change out the timing chain and check/rewind the stator every 30K I can live with that.
This bike amazes me where she will go and what she can do. Most versatile bike I have ever owned!
only 30K miles ...
How did you figure out that the chain was stretched to the end range?
Was it the Joel-recommended "if it makes a horrible noise when the bike is at full temperature ..." method ...
or something else?

Joel also mentioned a device that could be inserted in the tensioner bore ... but I think that is a magic tool not widely available?

I have about 24K miles on mine and agree 200% best bike I've ever owned.
I'm watching the stator story unfold here and pondering my response - I may use the "detuning method" and add 0.1 - 0.2 ohms of resistance to each stator leg as I really don't use all 400W of output anyway ... (say) 350W would be fine I think...
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:26 PM   #188
Indy Unlimited
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Well when the cam sprockets alignment are on the marks EX and IN with the top of the head the cam chain sag was ridiculous! It should be reasonably tight but the chain pins wore so much that the cam timing was off a few degrees. You can check it next time you are doing your vavle clearances!
I also noticed a slight rattle when the engine was warm and per Joel's notes he said that was the first sign of a worn out chain. So that was enough to tell me it was time.
I am glad I did it now. Super quiet motor again!
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:32 PM   #189
serguti
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What did you purchase?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I just did mine using the "Chadams" method and the master link!
I purchased a new chain and pressed out a link and reused the 3 center plates with the new master!

Awesome solution!!! Thanks Chadams!
Indy, what chain did you purchase? The OEM or the Z1? On Z1 site they estated this

"Cam Chain Link 82RH2015

(Master Link listed will only fit the same make and type of chain do intermix)"
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:51 AM   #190
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Well when the cam sprockets alignment are on the marks EX and IN with the top of the head the cam chain sag was ridiculous! It should be reasonably tight but the chain pins wore so much that the cam timing was off a few degrees. You can check it next time you are doing your vavle clearances!
I also noticed a slight rattle when the engine was warm and per Joel's notes he said that was the first sign of a worn out chain. So that was enough to tell me it was time.
I am glad I did it now. Super quiet motor again!
Thanks Indy I'll be in there soon for the 24K check...
Just so I'm clear ... you are saying that with the sprockets aligned to the hash marks you had a lot of droop in the top run of the chain between the two sprockets right?

I have the F658GS, and with it's less radical cam profile, I would "expect" (well I'm hoping for) longer chain life?


I found the reference Joel made to the tool, so I wasn't dreaming:

Alas…, we measure the chain stretch and guide wear at the same time by screwing a torque calibrated tool into the tensioner hole. This gives us the sum of how much adjustment is left.

Just measuring the chain wouldn't tell you if a guide had worn out or broken, and it is such a long chain with so little exposed, I doubt you could take a reliable measurement.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:15 AM   #191
Indy Unlimited
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Purchased the master link from Z-1 Enterprises the 82 RH 2015 actuall does fit the OEM chain. Do not buy the Z-1 Enterprises chain.
Purchased the OEM timing chain and broke it with a chain break tool from Pit Posse.

JRWooden: Yes when you align the 2 marks on the cam sprockets you will see chain slack that is not there with a new chain.
A new chain sits up agains the upper chain guide when it is installed between the cam sprockets. The stretched chain sags 10 mm away from the top guide.
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Indy Unlimited screwed with this post 04-20-2012 at 09:29 AM
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:23 PM   #192
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Purchased the master link from Z-1 Enterprises the 82 RH 2015 actuall does fit the OEM chain. Do not buy the Z-1 Enterprises chain.
Purchased the OEM timing chain and broke it with a chain break tool from Pit Posse.

JRWooden: Yes when you align the 2 marks on the cam sprockets you will see chain slack that is not there with a new chain.
A new chain sits up agains the upper chain guide when it is installed between the cam sprockets. The stretched chain sags 10 mm away from the top guide.
How did you feed the new chain though the motor??? I'd imaging you can get creative....so as not to remove any side panels...


Erling
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:56 PM   #193
Indy Unlimited
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Make sure you remove the cam chain tensioner.
You need to break the cam chain and connect the old chain to the new one on one end.
Then while a buddy rotates the rear wheel very slowly you need to guide the new chain on and replace it.
Then rebreak the connection with the old chain and connect the new chain to itself it barely fits for the final connection that is why you need to pull the chain tensioner to get all the slack you can.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:24 PM   #194
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Make sure you remove the cam chain tensioner.
You need to break the cam chain and connect the old chain to the new one on one end.
Then while a buddy rotates the rear wheel very slowly you need to guide the new chain on and replace it.
Then rebreak the connection with the old chain and connect the new chain to itself it barely fits for the final connection that is why you need to pull the chain tensioner to get all the slack you can.
Nice... Thanks..


Erling
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:28 AM   #195
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
Hey JR, I was told here that the new spring design was not new per se but had been updated in 2008.
When you get the new assembly can you compare the spring to your old one and provide the build date for your bike?
Very cool that a couple of mysteries are being solved!
If this is a repeat, sorry ... I was reading back thru this thread again..........

My replacement spring arrived. The baggie has the new xxx-438 part number on it.
I have not yet installed it, but for reference (in case anyone else is wondering if they have the new or the old spring),
Here are the key dimensions of the new spring:
Free length: ~13.3mm
Spring Diameter: ~14.2mm
Wire diameter: ~1.6mm
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