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Old 06-03-2012, 05:26 PM   #211
Indy Unlimited
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The cam chain tensioner does wear and needs replacing when doing a new cam chain.
You can order a new on and replace it.
I doubt your valves moved but I hope you are not off a tooth on your timing. It may still run. We used to retard the timing by one tooth on our motocross bikes for enduro riding the 03 YZ450s.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:03 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
+1

That and recheck the torque on the over head bits inside the valve cover.
Will do it this week. I used a Chinese Torque meter and was not accurate enough. The procedure with the CHAIN worked perfectly!... Also the Bridge plastic was damaged on one side, do not know if I better replace the 2 plastic slide peaces and the bridge just in case...
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:50 PM   #213
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Here is the SPANISH explanation: http://youtu.be/sfWfEMz-AmA
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:07 AM   #214
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Oye, Serguti, buenisimoooooooooooooo!
Muchisimas gracias, compadre. Que chingon es el video.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:21 AM   #215
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Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
Spring puts tension on the tensioner and hydraulic pressure provides damping. I believe it is the hydraulic portion that is failing and causing the issue. This is based upon comments from the tech that pulled the last one and showed the part was failing to maintain oil and thereby not working....
Circling back around to the tensioner issue... I recently bought a new tensioner spring as I was not sure if my bike had the older weaker spring or the newer beefed up spring. What is the procedure for checking the hydraulic damper assembly to make sure it holds oil?
It doesn't seem to be mentioned in either the Haynes or BMW manual.

Submerge in oil and see if it pumps up and holds dimension?
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:16 PM   #216
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Circling back around to the tensioner issue... I recently bought a new tensioner spring as I was not sure if my bike had the older weaker spring or the newer beefed up spring. What is the procedure for checking the hydraulic damper assembly to make sure it holds oil?
It doesn't seem to be mentioned in either the Haynes or BMW manual.

Submerge in oil and see if it pumps up and holds dimension?
Basically, yes. My defective one would not push the detent ball back out. It was limp and useless. The new one was hard to compress and did not move once loaded with oil.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:15 AM   #217
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Thanks!

I'll be checking that this week when I replace the spring!
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:45 AM   #218
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It's a bit of a bastard to get the tensioner back in there with a new spring installed. I did mine as well and was surprised at the amount of force it took to press it in enough to start the threads cleanly. (Just so you're warned it may not go as quickly as planned...)
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:58 AM   #219
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It's a bit of a bastard to get the tensioner back in there with a new spring installed. I did mine as well and was surprised at the amount of force it took to press it in enough to start the threads cleanly. (Just so you're warned it may not go as quickly as planned...)
If the motor is at top dead centre there is very little tension on the back side of the chain where the tensioner puts it pressure. You can than start the tensioner thread by hand with no force.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:13 AM   #220
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If the motor is at top dead centre there is very little tension on the back side of the chain where the tensioner puts it pressure. You can than start the tensioner thread by hand with no force.
Without some serious dis-assembly ... what's the easiest way to tell when the bike is on TDC?

My only thought is to take out the "TDC locator" cover/bolt and bump the engine over (maybe by turning the back wheel while in 6th gear while on the centerstand?) until you can see the notch in the crankshaft through the hole?
Is there an easier way?
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:20 AM   #221
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Without some serious dis-assembly ... what's the easiest way to tell when the bike is on TDC?

My only thought is to take out the "TDC locator" cover/bolt and bump the engine over (maybe by turning the back wheel while in 6th gear while on the centerstand?) until you can see the notch in the crankshaft through the hole?
Is there an easier way?
That's the way to do it. Use a bright light to see the groove.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:48 AM   #222
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That's the way to do it. Use a bright light to see the groove.
Thanks DB!

Indeed that should take most of the load off the chain!
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:07 AM   #223
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JR, put on some OFF repellent for ticks and get to it! LOL!
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:59 AM   #224
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TDC locator............

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
...



Locking Screw 116570
Crank Case

On my last bike-adventure I got more adventure than I bargained for ... in the form of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever... sheezzzzzzzz
Having now recovered I have started my minor excursion into the cam chain tensioner assembly in order to check for leakback in the hydraulic tensioner unit and also to confirm that my early-VIN bike has the stiffer tensioner spring.

With one of the cylinders on TDC compression there should be less tension on the chain making this easier,
so I put the bike on the center stand and in 6th gear, popped out the bolt #1 and rotated the back wheel by hand while my son looked for the V-shaped slot....

We rotated past the non-web area of the crank (nothing showing in the bolt hole) then rotated around to where we saw the web of the crank and then a bit more ... and I now have it lined up with what I think is the TDC-locator-slot....

But the slot (at least viewed thru the hole) does not look like the picture ... the picture shows it as being rather V-shaped, but what I'm seeing seems to have sharp squared-off sides rather than a V-shape. Maybe that is just an artist's rendition of the slot?

I knew there would be something here to confuse me just a bit ... there always is...
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:18 AM   #225
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...




I think it's my tunnel vision ..........
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