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Old 09-23-2011, 06:12 AM   #16
MikeMike
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Is it the spring or the actual tensioner piece that you are contemplating replacing on a regular basis?
Am I correct in thinking it is a simple arrangement where the spring rests with pressure on the tensioner piece?
Or is the tensioner piece operating hydraulicly or something different?
What is the easiest way to get at it? I have the RepRom but it just shows where the thing is hiding and not how to
get at it in the part about replacing the tensioner.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
Is it the spring or the actual tensioner piece that you are contemplating replacing on a regular basis?
Am I correct in thinking it is a simple arrangement where the spring rests with pressure on the tensioner piece?
Or is the tensioner piece operating hydraulicly or something different?
What is the easiest way to get at it? I have the RepRom but it just shows where the thing is hiding and not how to
get at it in the part about replacing the tensioner.
Spring puts tension on the tensioner and hydraulic pressure provides damping. I believe it is the hydraulic portion that is failing and causing the issue. This is based upon comments from the tech that pulled the last one and showed the part was failing to maintain oil and thereby not working.

In the pic labeled Timing Gear, the item that everyone refers to as the cam chain tensioner is on the right hand side of the pic #14, 15, 16,& 17.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:42 AM   #18
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Sweeeeet wrenching......I'm in.

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Old 09-23-2011, 10:00 AM   #19
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Awsome.....watching this one closely!
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:04 PM   #20
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Me too. I want to do my own when it is time and save $1,000 in labor.
I do all my dirt bike cam chains but this beast looks like it will take twice as long to do.
Go DieselBoy!
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:27 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Awesome, I'm looking forward to this also.


For the record, I paid about $1700 just in labor to have the cam chain diagnosed/replaced, so this thread will inevitably become very valuable to many DIY'ers for years to come.
I won't be paying for that work again, I'll rent a garage and look here instead. Hopefully replacing the tensioner and guides around 30,000 miles will help avoid this.

Thank you, and good luck.

Ah the pressure to perform.......thanks for the vote of confidence!


Lost Rider, I read your saga and I hope to avoid those labor fees. I would hope that the tensioner replacement would preclude replacing the guides. You can do the tensioner while wearing your riding gloves. To do the guides you have to split the engine. So hopefully that won't be necessary if we take a little preventative action.

......So I'm printing the repair manual pages for dropping the engine.....over 100 and counting. Granted things like taking the seat off or removing the rear wheel are not really tasking but I don't want to get knee deep in parts and wonder if I've missed something...


For instance, I realize now that I need to order the bolts for the foot peg mounting bracket. So that goes on the list for ordering.


Awaiting parts and printing pages. More to follow.....
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:18 PM   #22
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The manner BMW measures slack in the cam chain also include wear with the rails. If it was me, I would replace the rails and have the dealer test again. Then make a decision on replacing the chain.
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:20 PM   #23
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The manner BMW measures slack in the cam chain also include wear with the rails. If it was me, I would replace the rails and have the dealer test again. Then make a decision on replacing the chain.
really? why drop the engine put it together and not replace the chain and run the risk of having to do it all again?


EDIT: Unless you meant do the rails first, before the teardown. After reading through the manual, I see that that actually makes some sense if they can be changed without teardown. I need to study it some more. The left crank cover has to come off, but it doesn't say dismount the whole engine. My thought though is that the rails/guides are on the outside of the chain so is there wear without stretch? Stretch will damage the rails but does wear come before stretching? I'll have to discuss this with the service manager.
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Ah yes, silly me, I get confused on my old age.
okay, I may be wrong on this, but after running through the Maintenance DVD, I don't think you need to split the case for the guides BUT you still do to replace the cam chain. (Unless we can find one that has a master link....Buehler....Anyone, Anyone?)
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:42 PM   #25
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I've now printed the pertinent pages from the manual for this job.

11 00 050 Removing and reinstalling the engine.
11 31 551 Removing and installing or replacing the timing chain(engine removed)

Drop engine. Replace cam chain. Simple, right?





I now have additional parts to order on top of the list above. As I read through the manual, I noted that these parts appear to be one-time use:

Part Quantity Part Number Cost
01 CONSTANT PRESSURE VALVE 11417719354 $22.69

Oil Pan
6


Part Quantity Part Number Cost
9 Oval head screw M6X20 35217685343 $2.00

BRAKE PIPE REAR ABS

7


Part Quantity Part Number Cost
7 ISA screw M12X1,5X60 33537709575 $19.84

Spring strut, rear

8


Part Quantity Part Number Cost
09 O-ring 12X2,5 11117694729 $1.10

Heat exchanger/Leads
9


Part Quantity Part Number Cost
05 Oval head screw ISA M8X35 MK 34117672808 $1.80

Brake pedal
10


Part Quantity Part Number Cost
10 Gasket ring A8X13 11112343010 $0.89

Engine housing
11



Part Quantity Part Number Cost
15 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5-8-ZNS3 07129906047 $2.48

REAR WHEEL FORK
12


I can’t seem to find this one on the fiche:

Shaft Sealing Ring (1)

Gearbox Output Shaft
13

EDIT: I think I found it:

Part Quantity Part Number Cost
11 Shaft seal 12X28X7 1 * * 11142343038 $6.20 EDIT EDIT: THAT'S THE GEAR SHIFT SHAFT SEAL.

Engine housing cover, left
14
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:14 PM   #26
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As we all know, “special tools” are a plague to the home-wrencher. These are the tools that are listed that I do not have on hand and must resource. Some of the pics below do not show the actual tool, but the tool is used in this spot in the repair manual so I've dropped in the picture for reference.


Sliding Sleeve 231561 (I’m not sure what this is.) [EDIT: a buddy says he's used a bit of garden hose- works for me.]

Gearbox Output Shaft
15


Impact Weight 008582 and Rod 008581. EDIT: DID NOT NEED. THE PARTS SLID OUT BY HAND.

Crank Case
16



Magnet (I don’t think it’s necessary, but I include it because it’s in the manual).

Valve Shims
17


Locking Screw 116570

Crank Case
18


Angle of Rotation Guage 112501 (This actually appears in a couple of places.)

Main Bearing Crank
19


Pliers 131512 (I’ll try Harbor Frieght.) EDIT: USED LONG NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS WITH LIGHT BEND IN THEM.

Throttle Valve
20


Pliers 175571 (same) EDIT: NEEDLE NOSED PLIERS AGAIN

Radiator
21



Hose clamp

Coolant Res
22





Also need to find a tool to check the pressurization of the cooling system. EDIT: DID NOT DO THIS.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:20 PM   #27
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There are several instances of pastes, oils, and sealants. I did not do a diligent search to make sure I found all of these but these are the ones I’ve noted so far. Any suggestions for non-BMW substitutions (where applicable) are welcome.


Acid free friction bearing grease 81229407174
MP3 paste 07559062476
Klueber Paste 11007660831
Loctite 243
Coolant
Brake Cleaner
Paint Markers
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:37 PM   #28
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I think based on a career of mechanical repair:
Sliding sleeve- covers the splines on the countershaft so you don't damage the seal when you install it.
Impact weight- looks like a slide hammer with a threaded rod to screw into the 'wrist pin' so to speak of what I assume is the balancer. A bolt with the correct threads and a slide hammer attachment for your vise grips should work.
You won't need a magnet for the valve shims, but it helped when I did mine. (I was nervous about dropping one into the abyss) They're labeled as to thickness so as long as you document their respective locations you shouldn't be able to get them mixed up or need a fancy organizer tray.
You can make your own crank locking screw by tapering off the end of a matching bolt. The second time I checked my valves I got the proper tool, just to be sure.
Angle of rotation gauge- sounds like a torque-angle gauge to me. There's the old-school kind that fit between the socket and ratchet and rest against a stationary object, or a lot of newer digital torque wrenches have them built in.
You should be able to get by with any old pliers and a little ingenuity. (Although there are definitely specialty pliers for those hose clamps that make them easy to work with). Short sections of hose over needle nose vise grips works well for pinching off hoses.
If some of the above doesn't make sense just shoot me a PM. I'm also looking forward to your progress and opinions on doing this job on your own. Good on you for trying to tackle it yourself!
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:16 PM   #29
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We should be able to find a Master link for the timing chain and break the chain. I rivet the timing chains on my Husaberg and KTM with a timing chain tool. That may be a big time saver?
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:44 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner View Post
...covers the splines...bolt with the correct threads and a slide hammer attachment for your vise grips...a magnet...fancy organizer tray...tapering off the end of a matching bolt......fit between the socket and ratchet..old pliers and a little ingenuity...shoot me a PM...

Bayner, I see the spline cover now that I know what I'm looking at. Never heard of a slide hammer attachment for vice grips so that's really good data. The DIY tray and locking bolt I was tracking (saw someone here make both and plan to copy.) The ratchet attachment is obvious now for the angle gauge. Previously I'd only needed it for the head bearings but that angle was simple to calculate so didn't use it. I actually have a clamp from my 1150 days before I added quick disconnects.

Thanks for the input. The Harbor Freight list is growing.
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